Am I doing everything right in my new fish tank?

Question

I set up a 10 gallon with a whisper power filter, it's between 80-82 degrees, and I bought four fish two days later: one black neon tetra and three glolight tetras. I also put in some fake plants because the store didn't have the ones I wanted in stock. Today (two or three days after the fish) I bought a red slate rock and four plants (I don't know the exact names, the guy who knows about plants wasn't at the store today) and put them in. Two look like amall grassy types and one is fluffy and bright green and another is more of a red-brown-green with wider ruffled leaves.
My fish don't really seem to be eating, they just nibble at the flakes that fall to the bottom once or twice and then seem to lose interest. They don't swim towards the top of the tank to eat and they kind of just hide and stay close to the bottom.
Are they ok? Should I make a homemade co2 thing for the plants with yeast? Should I add more fish or plants? Is there anything I'm doing wrong? Thank you for any advice!

Also, I used to have an undergravel filter but I read on many sites that it isn't recommended for planted tanks. I switched to a powerhead and a couple days later added my first fish. I thought of one more question, too. Is ten hours of light from a flourescent light bulb enough each day? I don't want a lot of algae since I don't have any algae eaters yet. (Pet store guy said they were a little delicate for very new tanks)

Anybody have any information on giving co2 to the plants using a do it yourself co2 thing? (with yeast, warm water, and sugar) Also, would adding a handful of gravel from an established tank help speed the cycling process?

Answer 1

Since your tank is new, one of the first problems I would suspect is that there's ammonia accumulating in your tank. This is normally converted to nitrite (both ammonia and nitrite are toxic to your fish), then is converted to nitrate, which is okay in small amounts. The conversion is done by bacteria, but as new as your tank is, you haven't had time to build up a good bacteria population yet - this will take up to two months. So right now, the tank is is a cycling process when the bacteria are multiplying, buut there aren't enough to convert all the ammonia yet. So you have to help the fish out with some 25% water changes. Take out 1/4 of the water, and replace it with new water that's about the same temperature with dechlorinator added.

Another reason for your fish to show this behavior, is that both species are schooling fish, so they are more comfortable if they're in a group of 5+ of their own species. But until the tank is finished cycling, the more fish you have, the more ammonia you're going to have in the tank.

I would suggest returning the neon (if you can) since there's only one, and keeping the glolights only until the tank has cycled. Neons are particularly sensitive to ammonia and nitrites, so he's better off not in the tank. When the water in your tank tests at ammonia and nitrites =0, you can add a few more glolights. In a few weeks if you're still getting ammonia and nitrite =0, then you can add a group of the neons.

Also, make sure you aren't overfedding the fish - they should only get what they can eat in 2-3 minutes, twice a day. If there's extra food in the tank, net it out. Leaving the food stay in the tank will also add to the ammonia.

To address the info in the added details, 10 hours will be fine for the lighting. A powerhead will provide oxygen by water movement, but it doesn't provide filtration unless you're using it with an attached filter like this: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/11468/product.web

Answer 2

Its a fairly new tank, the ammonia levels could be very high right now, hence the listlessness. If you have trouble getting the tank cycled, try installing an under gravel filter with a powerhead pumping the thing. I know sounds like alot of work but that was the answer to 2 months of continuous deaths. A little aquarium salt in the water is good once its cycled-keeps diseases at bay.

Answer 3

You should lower the tempature to 74-78. Did you clean the tank before you put your fish in? You should clean the gravel the plants the accesories before you put your fish in. And wait 24 hours because there might be chlorine and ammonia.

Answer 4

Sadly...speaking from personal experience, you are most likely experiencing new tank syndrome. After spending hundreds of dollars and setting up several fresh water tanks of various sizes. I learned a few very important facts about maintaining aquariums.

First, fill the tank and get the water filter up and running. I prefer the filters that hang over the back side of the tank. Add some gravel or sand, depending on the kind of fish you intend to have. Add decorations, live or fake plants.

Next, save your money and refrain from buying any fish until your tank has cycled. I know it is hard to wait it out, but once you do, your tank will be set for good.

Now, go to the grocery store's sea food section and buy one small chilled shrimp. Bring it home and drop it into your tank and when it disappears, in two to three weeks your tank will be cycled.

Purchase an API test kit and check water parameters a couple times a week. You will see a huge ammonia spike, then you will see your ammonia start to come down and your nitrites and nitrates will begin to elevate. When everything reads zero your tank is cycled.

Here is a link to some excellent reading on setting up tanks.
http://www.tropicalresources.net/phpBB2/fishless_cycling.php

I suggest you not add any more to your bio load for a while. Everytime you add something live to your tank it will change the bio load.

An understanding of the Nitrogen Cycle is still needed, fishless cycling has not replaced the need for this basic information, but it has changed how we start this process up.

Fish waste, decaying organic matter, excess food from over feeding; these items break down into what we know as ammonia. Ammonia is a toxic chemical compound and even in low levels will impair the breathing of your fish. The damage is focused in the gills tissue and will, untreated lead to the death of the fish. Water changes to bring the toxic levels down to 'acceptable' levels or chemical additives to adsorb ammonia are the only way to control ammonia poisoning. Water that has a high pH is worse when combined with ammonia than water that is lower in pH. A reading from your test kit of "0" is the only acceptable reading. Use fishless cycling to avoid this unpleasant event.
With the formation of ammonia (above), an aerobic oxygen-consuming bacteria we commonly refer to as Nitrosomonas; convert the toxic ammonia into nitrIte. NitrIte is also a toxic chemical compound and as harmful or more so than ammonia. NitrIte affects the fish somewhat differently, by destroying the hemoglobin in the blood of the affected fish. The loss of hemoglobin restricts the ability of the blood then to carry oxygen to organs and tissue and this can lead to death. Here again your test kit should register a "0" as the only acceptable reading. Any reading in the aquarium system is a sign of something being out of balance. A reason to examine the tank and inhabitants for the cause of the problem(s).
With the formation of of nitrIte (above), a second aerobic bacteria we commonly refer to as Nitrobacter forms and converts nitrIte into a compound called NitrAte. This chemical compound is far less toxic than either of the above noted items. It can be kept in check via water changes and live tropical plants also use some of this compound as well. For me a 30 to 50 ppm test result for NitrAte are in the realm of requiring water changes and or other means to reduce these levels. Check with the Tropical Resources Discussion Forum for insight into your individual aquatic needs.
When you have test kit readings of, 0 ppm Ammonia, 0 ppm NitrIte and a 30 ppm or below NitrAte levels, your aquarium is cycled, safe and ready for use. With the harmful effects of ammonia and nitrite removed from the system, or better described as neutralized by the growing biological colony, you may introduce your fish in the confidence that you have provided for them the best conditions we are presently able to provide. You have reached or achieved Aquatic Excellence, as it is currently defined — Congratulations!

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Answer 5

Yeah, but you have to special order it. Sometimes certain stores have the larger size tanks like that. Call around. There are petsmarts all over and find the one that has your size tank. Petsmart always has really good deals.

Answer 6

Your temperature seems a little high. Even though they come from Africa, they don't need it that high. Try lowering it to 77 and see how they act.

~ZTM