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The drywall tape is peeling really bad from moisture, all over the walls and ceiling. Is this a quick fix, or do I just need to tear it down and start all over?

2007-05-24 09:58:37 · 10 answers · asked by armatose 2 in Home & Garden Do It Yourself (DIY)

10 answers

Texas has a decent solution. Certainly if I was doing the job, I'd likely remove all the tape, re-prep the seams/joints, re-tape (Not using paper tape) and when it's been sanded again, prime it then use a semi gloss, two coats at least.

Whether or not the tape/ job is old, or was a shabby job to begin with, the issue is as much the fault of the moisture as anything else. You might consider a vent fan, especially if you don't have a window, and certainly open the door after a bath/shower to dissipate the steam and moisture.

Before re-taping,,, if I was doing the job, I'd probably also check for the drywall being damp or stained, and allow it to dry. At some point if the moisture issue isn't addressed your problem will continue to reoccur.

Steven Wolf

2007-05-24 10:16:27 · answer #1 · answered by DIY Doc 7 · 3 3

Actually a combination (all the same thickness of course) of "wet or green" rock, regular sheet rock and Hardibacker is the best system and if installed according to the manufactures specifications is the best. The Hardibacker should surround the tub or shower up withing 2" of the shower spout or even higher. This material is impervious to water and if the joints are sealed properly (man's instruct's) is leak proof. The green or wet rock goes in back of the vanity and toilette or generally where water is not present or expected to be continuous and in the shower/bath but where the surface may become damp. Regular sheet rock is used every where else. The sheet rock is finished with tape and joint compound in the corners and edge seams and where it meets the Hardibacker. Then it is primed and painted as desired. Before applying the Hardibacker, some like to install a water barrier behind it, like a continuous sheet of heavy rolled plastic will do the trick. After installing the hardibacker, install the tub/shower surround prior to painting the walls.

2016-05-17 05:58:50 · answer #2 · answered by thea 4 · 0 0

I would say get some new tape that is approved for high moisture items and retape the bath room. Check and see if the mud you are using is approved for high moisture locations. Also make sure there is a vent fan in your bathroom to help remove the moisture.

2007-05-24 10:06:53 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Go to your local Lowes or Home Depot. It seems to me they have special drywall for high moisture areas such as bathrooms

2007-05-24 13:55:33 · answer #4 · answered by fortyninertu 5 · 0 1

re do the joints with dura bond plaster 60 minute it will setup under water.

you could skim coat the bathroom with USG basecoat plaster

find it at a drywall supply company its easier to work with than joint compounds. trowel it on and smooth with wet sponge.

2007-05-24 17:15:52 · answer #5 · answered by vincent s 4 · 0 0

There is a tape that looks like netting. It's GREAT for your situation. Even amateurs can get this one to stick.

2007-05-24 10:19:23 · answer #6 · answered by pappyld04 4 · 0 0

First make sure you have water-proof materials. Sounds like
the tape and spackling wasn't to begin with. You can try to repair it with some water-proof materials, but your probably
gonna have to replace it. Good luck !!

2007-05-24 10:41:30 · answer #7 · answered by jakesnake 2 · 0 0

You can let it dry thoroughly, sand and refloat it. Paint with an oil based paint and give it two coats.

2007-05-24 10:02:02 · answer #8 · answered by Texas Cowboy 7 · 0 0

sounds like it was not primed properly. not a quick fix but it is fairly easy to retape...if you know how

2007-05-24 10:06:29 · answer #9 · answered by sam hill 4 · 0 0

when all the above is done make sure you have a good vent fan and be sure to use it

2007-05-24 11:49:10 · answer #10 · answered by Bill 5 · 0 0

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