Is a 1-1/8" solid wood countertop essentially as good as a 1-1/2" countertop of the same wood?

Question

We have a choice between two similar models, one is slightly thinner than the other, but probably half the price. Is there any substantial difference. BTW, we are probably not living in this house for too many years, so decades' of durability is not our utmost concern. But we want it to hold up and look nice.

Answer 1

yes...period.

Answer 2

Strength would be somewhat different but you are not installing in an area that has an intense strength requirement so for this purpose I'd say go with the thinner. It is not significantly thinner anyhow. Only 3/8 difference.
Now how will they both look when installed, I would have to say " Seeing is believing" so find out if they have Photos of both installed, you want good close - up photos, if they don't have them...let them get them so you can see the close-ups. Around corners, over drawers, etc. You want to see how this difference will effect the final installation appearance.

these days, they should be able to get photos right from the manufactorer since most use that computerize modeling software - they may even have this themselves, or may be able to have photos faxed right to them while you wait.
Or manufactorer may have an interactive web site....This is the first thing I'd look for

Answer 3

Your only real concern involves the underlayment or substrate. If you're spanning say, a sink cabinet, you will want extra support so as not to have any bows or excessive stress due to the span/weight. Some cabinets have a solid top, they will support the weight evenly. Obviously sinks and drop-in stove tops don't fit this. If your cabinets aren't built this way, you will want to put 1/2" or 3/4" ply over them to support the countertop. But, as you say, longevity isn't the goal, so you still have the option to cheap out and not add the extra support.

Answer 4

Solid wood - like a glued-up maple butcher block perhaps?

If so, the thinner wood profile will deflect and bend more under load. But, if it's well supported and you're not cantilevering any part too far off a supporting structure, you should be perfectly OK. Although it may look a little thin on the edges, unless the installer plans to add a thicker edges treatment.

You may want to add additional support on wide cabinets (with longer , unsupported expanses to cover) and around any sink cutouts. That may add a bit to the installation costs, but probably will still be much more cost effective than thicker wood.

Answer 5

Besides butcher-blocks for cutting meats, I've never seen a wooden countertop in 30+ years of construction work. Is this the substrate or the counter "top" itself?

Answer 6

Answer number one certainly nudged me, and yet I suspect you mean the form and framework that supports whatever finish material tops the counter.

Consider this..........You're talking about 3/8 of an inch difference. In large measure ( no pun intended) I'll assume you won't be parking a Volkswagon on the counter or doing the PEE WEE Herman Big Shoe Dance on it.

It's pretty obvious that you want an upgrade, or something to replace something either degraded or disliked. You also pretty much answered your own Q in that you state a TEMP situation.

On a personal level...if the less expensive one looks decent,offers you some levels of viable service for what time you want it to, isn't something you'd be ashamed to offer a buyer for your house at some point, and you can use the $$$ for more important issues like groceries, outrageous gas prices, shoes for the family, a night out on a date with your signif. Other, etc. etc. then I suggest LESS IS MORE.

You'll probably note many thumbs down for my answers, and like you, I hope the choice is "So What"

Steven Wolf

Answer 7

Wood is very hard to maintain especially in the kitchen. Bacteria and mold will thrive in the wood if not adequately prepared, installed and maintained. Wood also dents and scratches very easily. Personally, I would go with granite. More expensive but very easy to maintain and resistant to scratches. As for resale value, most remodeled kitchens that I have seen were done with granite.

Answer 8

I never seen a solid wood c-top composition board yes and only commercial at that thickness most c-tops have a build up in th front and back to make 1.5 in is the top plastic laminate if so make sure it is c-top grade it does come in different thickness also.

Answer 9

Yes. Besides, a heavier counter top will make the sides of the furniture be exposed to compression, not much, but it can be noticeable on drawers and door hinges performance in the long run, only if beneath the counter top you have doors and drawers.

Answer 10

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Answer 11

yes it is because the counter top is setting on the support wood so you counter top will only be as strong as the support wood.But make sure you put a good clear coat on it because wood does hold bacteria and dont buy pine if will split over time.