I just had a ceramic floor and new toilet put in my bath .... the toilet rocks a little bit. I notice the?

Question

floot is not quite even ... so the toilet does not sit entirely flat on the tile. What can I do to fix this problem ??

Answer 1

It is really the installers job to do this properly. If you do not want to call them back, go to a Home Center and purchase plastic shims which are made for this purpose. They will be in the plumbing section. Slide the shims in while using a level across the bowl. When the shims are firm, mark and remove them. Cut them off so they are even with the bowl edge. You can use caulk around the edge of the bowl if the gap is too large. Personal opinion is not to caulk the bowl completely around. If you have a leak, the caulk will hold water in and you will not know there is a leak until you smell it or the underlayment is ruined. Leave the backside of the bowl open.

Answer 2

If you have some of the grout left over from the tile, mix some up and try to force it in and around to base of the toilet. You might loosen the two nuts that hole the toilet down - but not too much to break the seal on the wax ring. The grout will fill in the low areas under the toilet and will provide a solid surface to keep the toilet from rocking.

After you get the grout around the toilet, let it sit and harden a little (about 10 minutes or so). Then use a sponge and water and wipe away any excess grout from around the toilet. DO NOT use the toilet until the grout has sufficient time to harden, usually overnight.

Once the grout has hardened, then you can caulk around the base of the stool as required by code.

Using the grout first will provide a more solid base for the toilet than caulk alone since most caulks will remain flexible. Using grout also works better if there is a large void under the toilet from a sloping floor

I hope that this helps you with your problem. This is a simple fix that I have learned in my years in construction and the commercial flooring business.

Answer 3

Easy.
I get those calls all the time.

Shim the bowl so it doesn't move, then caulk it.

Caulking the bowl to the floor is a code requirement anyway. UPC code book.

Don't use silicone caulking. It's hard to clean up and made to look good. It's also hard to remove if the bowl is ever pulled for some reason.

Use just regular tub and tile caulk. It won't glue the bowl down quite as strong as silicone caulk but it's better to use anyway.

As far as the shims----any wood shim available at a Home Depot, Lowes, any hardware store, etc, will work.
Trim the shim to fit and so it's under the bowl just barely enough to be covered up by the caulking.

Or, you can make them.

They have plastic shims available, but with me, the wooden ones are quicker and easier to work with. They don't swell like some believe.

I've had to go behind the best tile setters and work on their toilet re-installs.
Don't hold it against them.
They always fail to check the bowl for rocking.

Code allows a tile setter to pull and reinstall bowls, but the larger companies here usually call a plumber to reset the toilet. The tile setter will pull it, but they'll have a plumber reset it.

Answer 4

Have used this previous plumber's trick for same subject. you will could reset the rest room & replace the wax ring. First, verify to make certain if the floor flange & surrounding tile are point. If there is largely a small distinction, this works. Have the floor bolts & wax ring in place . blend up some plaster of paris & stick quite moist gobs into the cavities under the bowl. could artwork "quickly." .. reset the bowl, have a seat, verify for point & tighten bolts. The plaster will fall out of the cavities & fill areas between the backside of the bowl & floor. It places much less stress on the bowl than shims & provides a miles better bearing floor. superb regards

Answer 5

First step is to contact the installer, he would be responcible for a proper installation. If he is full of excuses he is not a good mechanic.

If you must DIY for any reason, you might be able to shim it in one or two places [a three legged stool never rocks] with small pieces of sheet lead [if you cannot find this, you could hammer out old lead sinkers into the thickness you need] just inside the edge of the rim. Fold it on itself to make the thickness you need.

If that doesn't help, you might want to put it and see what the problem is. Was the toilet flange installed correctly? Is it too high? It should be on top of the tile, about 1/4" higher.

Answer 6

Please don't use grout, lead shims, or even wooden shims! Plastic shims are available, and any good plumber would know this. If you have a large space between the bowl and the floor, you could use plumbers putty to fill the space, before caulking the toilet. If it was the tile setters that reset your toilet, you could call that company, and explain the situation, and ask them to send a licensed plumber to come fix the problem. Let them know that you aren't satisfied with the way the job was done, and that you want the job done right. Good luck!

Answer 7

get the guys that put it in fix it if you paid if not put some type of cement under neath and let sit over night to stop the problem

Answer 8

Go with rangedog's answer

Answer 9

use the screwdriver and nail down the nail on the rim. if that doesn't work get some professional help and tell them your problem. they would help you.