What do I feed my baby spurred tortoise?!?

Question

I have a 4 month old baby sulcata tortoise and want to know if anyone out there can inlighten me in what they eat when there young? Would they need a Hot rock for the night or anything are they cold blooded? Thanks!

Answer 1

No hot rocks - these are not good for any reptiles. They cause buns, because the only way an animal can get warm is to be in contact with them, and there's no way to control the temperature. Plus, I found out the hard way that when they're wet, they conduct electricity!

A ceramic heating element is the way to go - they're more expensive, but are far safer and last. The produce heat from above, where they're out of reach.

As far as feeding, they are vegetarians. A mix of fresh veggies and alfalfa or dried grasses for fiber works well. The amount of watery foods should be limited. Some of the things I've used for food are romaine, kale, collard greens, broccoli, carrot, green beans, dandelion leaves, grape leaves, apples, and squash with cantalope, tomato, grapes, strawberries, and mango as treats.

They should also get a dusting of vitamin and calcium powder on their salads periodically.

Answer 2

THEY EAT VEGGIES AND FRUIT NO HEAT ROCK JUST A UV AND A BASKING LIGHT , PLACE TO KEEP WARM ON ONE SIDE AND KEEP THE WATER BOWL ON THE OTHER AND EASY TO GET IN AND OUT FOR HIM THEY LIKE TO SIT IN WATER SO MAKE SURE THEY HAVE ROOM TO DO THAT. NO MEAT....VEGGIES FRUIT BUT NO CITRUS UN TIL OLDER . HAVE FUN YOU CAN EVEN TAKE HIM OUT SIDE IN THE YARD TO GET FRESH AIR AND EAT SOME GRASS AND WALK AROUND BUT WATCH HIM THEY ARE ACTUALLY PRETTY FAST...ENJOY

Answer 3

Copperhead is right- but I would not use as much 'wet stuff' (little if any fruit, fewer veggies, etc.)

Some good sites for this species (which I really hope you did your homework on and know how HUGE it gets!) include:
- http://ww.tortoisetrust.org
- http://www.sulcatastation.org

Answer 4

Well, in captivity, Sulcatas require a very high fiber diet. A lack of fiber can result in digestive tract disturbances, diarrhea, and can increase susceptibility to flagellate and worm problems. The feeding of fruit will result in similar problems. Fruit, if given at all, should only be an occasional treat. A grassy area within the enclosure is essential, as it will provide a good source of fiber for your Sulcata.

Grasses and hays are a critical component of the Sulcata’s diet. Experts recommend that mixed grasses comprise 70–75% of your Sulcata’s diet. The following grasses are considered suitable fodder grasses: buffalo grass, Bermuda grass, bluegrass, Darnel rye grass, western wheat grass, blue grama grass, and a variety of Fescue sp. Grass hay (not alfalfa hay), which is available at local feed stores, can also be provided. Avoid hays with excessively “prickly” seed heads, such as Timothy hay, as these can injure mouths and eyes.

This grass-based diet should be supplemented with flowers as frequently as possible. Edible flowers and weeds that should be included in a regular diet include: hibiscus flowers and leaves, wild dandelion flowers and leaves, petunia, Viola sp., thistle, chickweed, opuntia cactus, plantain and clover. Be sure all flowers and weeds are free of pesticides and herbicides, and avoid picking plants from roadside areas where plants are routinely subjected to vehicle exhaust and chemical spraying.

Grocery store produce should represent only a very small part of your Sulcata’s total diet. Acceptable produce includes chicory, dandelion greens, collard greens, endive, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, shredded carrots and pumpkin.

Although Sulcatas will eat animal protein, DO NOT feed them anything containing animal protein, as it will cause carapace deformity. It should also be noted that excessive quantities of beans, bean sprouts, peas and similar vegetables rich in protein can lead to scute pyramiding. A high protein diet will also cause rapid growth, kidney failure and a shortened life span.

Vegetables such as broccoli, brussel sprouts, kale and varieties of cabbage can lead to goiter and hypothyroidism and should be avoided or provided on only rare occasions. Greens high in calcium oxalate such as parsley and spinach can bind calcium, which could lead to metabolic bone disease. These greens should be avoided. Collards also contain calcium oxalate and therefore if provided should be done so in very limited quantities.

The ideal Sulcata diet should be: high in fiber; low in fats, oils and protein; and rich in minerals, trace elements and vitamins.

Many experts also strongly recommend against the use of commercially-available “tortoise diets.” If you are considering feeding these diets to your Sulcata, please consult with your veterinarian before doing so.

Another essential component of your daily feeding routine is the provision of clean water. A combination wallow and water dish should be provided even though your tortoise may seldom drink from it. A large plastic flowerpot dish set into the ground works well for this purpose. The dish should be cleaned frequently and the water replaced daily. In addition, juvenile and sub-adult Sulcatas should be soaked weekly to ensure adequate hydration. Use a container large enough to accommodate the tortoise, add tepid (not hot) water that is no deeper than is necessary to cover the edge of the carapace. Allow your tortoise to soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Tortoises will generally take advantage of this time to replace their water stores, voiding the old, and replacing it with fresh. Even large adult Sulcatas should be soaked several times a year. For a very large tortoise, you may need to insert the contained into the ground and encourage it to enter the water for several minutes.

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS:

Tortoises that graze outdoors and have a healthy diet do not require great amounts of vitamin and/or mineral supplements. In fact, A.C. Highfield, in his book, The Tortoise and Turtle Feeding Manual (2000), states, “There is a great deal of misunderstanding concerning the role of vitamins and minerals. Many people believe that the more you get of both the better – this is categorically not true, indeed, some vitamins and minerals can be positively dangerous if taken in excess.” Highfield recommends that you provide your tortoise with as varied a diet as possible. Never give your tortoise “pure” vitamins unless under veterinary direction. If you give vitamins, provide them orally rather than by injection unless under veterinary direction.

Tortoises need significant quantities of calcium, particularly as they are growing. Unfortunately, in the captive environment, it is difficult for them to obtain all the calcium they need from their diet alone. It is recommended that you occasionally sprinkle their food with a calcium supplement, preferably formulated for tortoises. The best supplements for tortoises are phosphorus-free, contain a wide range of trace elements, and are free of added amino acids (these supplements generally include vitamin D3 as well). Tortoises that are maintained outdoors throughout the year should not need D3 supplements. Raw calcium lactate, calcium carbonate, ground oyster shells or cuttlefish bones are also good sources of calcium. The need for extra calcium is especially high in females and hatchlings. Consult your veterinarian for specific information regarding frequency and amount of supplements required for your tortoise.

Hope it will help :)
Good luck :)
Oh and here are some more information :)

Answer 5

I've got no answers for you, but I do have a question....

Why didn't you ask these questions when you BOUGHT YOUR TORTOISE?!






jeeze......