Replacing Chain Garage Door Opener with Belt/Screw?

Question

I currently have a chain garage door opener. Can I go to my local B&M store and buy a belt or screw drive opener and swap it with my current one with no problem? Will I need to change anything else on my garage door? For example, the center rail where the chain/pulley is housed... how will this work with a belt system? Is a new rail included with the new opener?

Thanks

Answer 1

It should be. The openers basically just hang in the garage and do all their pushing against the bar that reaches to the door frame, so the bar has to match the opener.

Answer 2

Garage Door Opener Belt Replacement

Answer 3

Garage Door Belt Replacement

Answer 4

Simple swap out. The rail for a chain drive operator is the same height as a belt drive rail so you don't need to change anything except for possibly the mount on the wall that attaches the operator to the wall above the door. The belt drive operators are very quiet units. If you buy a new garage door opener they come complete with the rail and all hardware to install it.

If you buy a screwdrive operator (recommended that you don't) you will have to measure the high point where the top of the door is at its highest point before it breaks and folds back into the horizontal and then measure down the wall and mark the point on the wall that you got for high point subtract 2" for clearance which will give you plenty of clearance so the door don't hit the rail. Then go back to the operator and place a level on the rail get it level, measure from the ceiling to the operator where the bolts go to attach to the ceiling take that measurement and cut 14 gauge angle iron at that length. Find out where the studs are in your garage ceiling and cut a piece of angle iron to run between the studs if they run front to back create a H out of angle iron so that you can attach your vertical pieces of angle iron at 90 degree angles (straight up and down). If the rafter studs run side to side, find the one closest to the operator and cut at least a 20" piece of angle iron and mount to that stud using 2" lag screws. The rest of the angle iron can be connected together with 9/16" x 1" bolts/nuts.

This is also a good time to lubricate the springs above the door and to lubricate all the hinges and rollers which should be done 2 times a year minimum.

After the install is complete set the limits on the door, which is done by turning the little screws on the side of the operator in the direction of the arrows to either make the door open farther, or to go down farther. The force limits on the back of the operator should be set between 3 and 5. No higher than that, and should be followed by placing a 2x4 flat on the ground in the middle of the door and close the door and make sure it reverses without bending the top section of the door or the trolley arm more than about a half inch, if so, turn down the force limits until it no longer bends the door section or trolley arm.

Answer 5

Here's the deal - I totally agree with the fellow above: Genie & Wayne Dalton are now low-end "lumber yard" units which translates into nothing but headaches down the road. At our company (an authorized Liftmaster/Chamberlain dealer) we never sell screw drive units even though Liftmaster makes a fairly reliable one. Our experience has been that chain and/or belt drive units almost always out perform. As for the swap out - most likely you will have to change out the "head" AND the rail; especially if you are purchasing a totally different brand. A chain "head" WILL NOT drive a belt rail and vice versa (even if the new rail is the same brand) because your drive pulley on the top of the unit is totally different. As for the install - you shouldn't have much difficulty since you currently have a unit mounted to the ceiling - in other words finding ceiling rafters/floor joists, mounting materials, etc. shouldn't be any problem since you already have something existing to work with. The only thing I would suggest is this - take the opportunity to lift your door manually and make sure it is working properly (easy to open, doesn't hang up on anything, etc.) before you attach and operate the new opener. Openers are actually only meant to get the door going in the up or down direction while the SPRINGS do MOST of the work. If your door is overly difficult to work by hand then your new opener will wear out way before its time.

Answer 6

First, yes, everything is included. The only material you may need will be perforated angle iron to hang the new opener, if the new machine won't work with the old hang. You may also need some 5/16 x 1" bolts w/nuts.
Second, forget the screw-drive. Genie used to make a reliable machine, but now it's junk. I stopped selling them about 6-7 years ago because I was tired of constantly having to go back and fix them. Wayne-Dalton-junk!
I recommend sticking with the Chamberlain/Sears/Liftmaster
openers(all made by Chamberlain). They're very reliable. If you want a quieter opener, get the belt-drive. Keep in mind-if your door makes a lot of noise on its own, a quiet opener won't much matter.
Assuming it's in your budget, spend a little extra for the 3/4 HP machine. They're built better, and have longer warranties than the 1/2 HP models.

Answer 7

Depends on where you live. If it's cold in the winter time, go with the chain. Screw drives dont last up here too long. If you have living quarters above your garage, go with the belt drive. The belts are made of Kevlar, and I've never seen one break. Screw drives are ok if you are in the south.

Answer 8

I recommend the screw drive as well. My company does over 100 a year and I always recommend them. Stay away from the I-drive openers, nothing but headaches. Genie or Chamberlain are good manufucaturers. As far as changing other hardware, it might take you an extra 20 minutes of work, but its worth it to install the new opener properly and avoid headaches down the road.

Answer 9

It's similar principals, just an ""exchange of all the hardware"". I prefer the screw/auger type, and have installed a few without too much difficulty