how to build a cinder block wall for an interior wall in a horse barn?

Question

im building a block wall in my horse barn. im not sure if i should use rerode or not. also, is this a good idea or not. the wall is for the seperation of a tack room and a stall.

Answer 1

The main thing is to be careful on how you set up the wall. The holes in the cinderblocks are for putting in vertical reinforcement, like a nice piece of rebar to secure in the ground.

Worse case scenario is the horse sides up to the wall and knocks it over onto ya in the tack room as you prepare a shoe. Being crushed to death does suck...

So perhaps consider other materials because the cinderblocks are a pretty permanent/heavy duty option. Perhaps wood frames, dry wall and sliding doors. Its both light in weight and light on the wallet.

Answer 2

I pretty much agree with answer 1, Although it may seem the block wall will be more sturdy, and I wasn't thinking getting crushed at all, You'd probably have to set it on a footer. Without knowing if the structure has a floor, or not, and is basically off ground level, to add a footer would mean going through any flooring that does exist

Certainly rebar would aid in strengthening, as would pouring concrete into the block openings, but as a free standing structure, with no outer support mechanism, or corners; as in two opposing walls; the likelyhood is that at some point the horse will be against it, perhaps with enough force to damage the wall, the horse, and or anyone in the vicinty.

Why not frame up a wall, as the rest of the Barn might be constructed, tying it into the floor, a perpendicular wall, and perhaps a ceiling, or overhead, open beams. Treated stock will certainly offer the same overall effect,,, and in the framing and walling it up, you can choose to panel both sides or one. You can leave it open a certain distance from the top, either to view the horse or retain some air circulation.

Steven Wolf

Answer 3

Roger is correct but do not try to put it all on in one coat. Apply the mud and scrape it off. This will leaves the mud in the creaveses only. Let the joint compound (mud) dry over night and repeat. The reason to repeat is because the mud will shrink slightly when it dries and needs more put on it. Some people sand after it dries before recoating. If you take the drywall knife/ trowel and scrape the wall just enough to remove any high places and then recoat atleast twice but preferable 3 times seems to work the best. Sand smooth and brush off the dust before priming and then paint.