Pls tell me how to build a composting box.?

Answer 1

http://www.organicgardening.org.uk/factsheets/gg24.php
http://www.gardenwise.bc.ca/gardenwise/buildcompost.lasso
http://www.montana.edu/wwwpb/pubs/mt9204.html
http://www.dorsetforyou.com/index.jsp?articleid=3219
http://www.uky.edu/OtherOrgs/AppalFor/bins.html

How about those ones?

Answer 2

Here's how you do it.

Build your own compost box

The following instructions describe how to make a wooden compost box (size: 75x75x75cm), consisting of identical interlocking sections, which are stacked one on top of the other. As the compost decreases in volume, the top sections of the box can be taken off and used to start building up a new container. Make a few extra sections and you will have a very flexible composting system. Keep the rain out with a wooden lid or square of old carpet or polythene.

Materials and equipment needed:
To make ten sections of the box you will need:

30 m of wooden boards (e.g. reclaimed timber such as floorboards or pallets), approx 7.5cm wide and a minimum 1.5cm thick
2.2m of 5cm x 5cm timber


220 x 3.6cm long screws, size number 8
Rulers, screwdrivers, drills (could use hand drills), and saws
Building each section of the box
1) Cut 2 boards, each 75cm long.

2) Cut 2 boards, each 72cm long.

3) Cut 4 lengths of 5.5cm from the 5cm x 5cm timber. These will make the corner blocks.


4) Take one of the 72cm shorter boards and place it on one of the corner blocks. The ends of the board should be flush with the block. The block should be offset so that it projects 2cm below the edge of the board (as shown in the diagram below).

5) Hold the board in position on the blocks. Drill 2 holes at one end of the board, through the board and into the block below. Fasten with 2 screws (see diagram below).

6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 at the other end of the board (see diagram below).

7) Now repeat steps 4-6 with the second shorter (72cm) board. For the next stage you may need someone to help hold the pieces while you fix them together.

8) Stand the 2 shorter boards on their ends, approximately 75cm apart, with the protruding ends of the blocks away from you. Place a 75cm board on top of these vertical boards to form the third side of the section. Ensure that the ends of the longer board are flush with the edges of the vertical boards.

9) Drill and screw each end of the 75cm board, as in step 5

10) Turn the section over so that the unfinished side is uppermost. Place the second 75cm board across between the shorter boards as before. Position squarely and drill and screw as in step 9.

11) Continue making sections until you have as many as you want. You need to weatherproof any timber that has not been treated to make it last.

Would you answer mine please?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Avp7pHHbUmA_1NIsIVK.ZC_sy6IX?qid=20070518194124AAtSmrV

Answer 3

Three Bin Styles
Wire-Framed Bin


Wire-framed composter

This is one of the simplest types of compost bin you can make. Dig four 2-foot-deep holes for four 6-foot 2x4s so they form a square 36 inches on each side. Set the posts in place with concrete or tightly pack soil around each post.

Decide which side will be the gate. Using wire staples, attach turkey or chicken wire fencing on the other three sides; hammer the staples in firmly. Cut a piece of fencing large enough to cover the fourth side of the bin. Attach the hinge side of the wire mesh to one post using oversized staples that can go at least 1 1/2 inches into the post. Attach a row of four similar staples to the 2x4 on the other side of the opening, but drive them only partway into the post. To secure the gate, press the fencing against the post so that the partially driven staples protrude through the holes in the fencing. Then slide a dowel or metal rod through the staples to hold the gate shut.

To speed up the composting, set a 4-inch-diameter piece of PVC pipe with holes drilled into it in the middle of the pile. The pipe helps add moisture and air.


Slatted Bin


Slatted composter

Set the posts as you did for the wire-frame composter. Use cedar, redwood, or other rot-resistant 2x6s to box in three sides, leaving a gap of at least 1/2 inch between boards to allow for air circulation.

To make a channel for the gate, use six 3-inch wood screws to attach a vertical 2x6 flush with the outside edge and top of each front post. The 2x6 will extend about 2 inches beyond the front edge of the post. Along the inside face of each front post, use six 3-inch wood screws to attach a 2x2 so that it is flush with the top of the post and spaced so it leaves a 2-inch gap between the front edge of the 2x2 and the back edge of the 2x6.

Measure the inside distance between the front posts, subtract 1/2 inch, and cut enough 2x6s to close the front opening when the 2x6s are slipped into the channel.

A 4-foot-square heavy plywood floor makes collecting the compost easier.


Tiered Bin


Tiered bin composter

This bin is built like the slatted version described at left. The only difference is that the bins share a common wall. You can make a series of bins side by side so that when turning the heap, you dump the contents of one bin into the bin beside it.

Answer 4

Take an old large (50 gal) plastic garbage can, the outdoor type. Cut the bottom out of it. Drill holes in the sides to let it breathe. Add yard waste and cover with the lid. Add a few weeks and.. ta-da. Compost!

Answer 5

All you need for a compost system in your yard is a solid wire fence about 8 feet long, similar in guage to concrete reinforcment wire and turn it into a ring about the size of a hula hoop. Put in all your yard clippings and all your kitchen scraps and keep turning it with a pitch fork. It will keep you supplied.

Answer 6

Composting is a great way to reduce and reuse. Here are some links that will help:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=LawnGarden/ci_compostbin.html&topic=howToLibrary

http://www.wisegeek.com/how-can-i-build-a-compost-bin.htm

Answer 7

If you are planning to start on your woodworking project, this isn't something you should use, it's something that you would be insane not to. Go here https://tr.im/pXoV0
Truth is, I've been a carpenter for almost 36 years, and I haven't found anything like this for less than 10's of thousands of dollars.

Answer 8

get 4 boards, nail them together to make a square. add dirt, and other biologicals to the soil. let sit for months, you now have compost.

Answer 9

All very valid answers. I too have a suggestion, or two. Anywhere in the USA, and perhaps even in your garage there are plastic, molded crates, designed to transport Milk jugs.

With all due respect I'm thinking FREE or reallly reasonable here. I'll assume that aesthetics aren't an issue, it is dirt afterall.

Two or more cinderblocks/two or more Plastic crates/ add whatever substances you choose/ stir and hose on occasion, turn the soil under the raised crates on occasion, and create a compost that is as viable as any commercially sold. It might be a valid notion to dig a PIT, first, under any method you use, allowing for a better decomposition in watering down. Be aware that yard trash, IE grass and leaves do not strictly decompose rapidly, while food waste not only decomposes but is aided in the process by Critters.

I do have another suggestion, and have used it on occasion.

Add to your life a Rabbit or two. Settle them into a wire cage, feed them their usual, plus mowed grass, vegetable food leftovers or choppings, allow they they are treated well, turn the soil under their cage on occasion, and at some point in the not too distant future, take up fishing as well as rabbit Husbandry.

Under their cage, in a natural process, you will have some of the richest, darkest, nourishing soil/compost you might imagine, PLUS, earth worms the size of smallish snakes.

Steven Wolf

Answer 10

Try this link.