Installing self-stick vinyl tile?

Question

First off, let me say that I know there are better (more expensive) flooring options and that installing new underlayment is always recommended. However, I want to avoid laying new plywood, so I have removed a layer of vinyl tiles and the original vinyl sheeting to expose the luan underlayment. It appears to be in good shape and has minimal residue on it. What would you recommend I put on this underlayment to help adhesion of the tile?

Answer 1

I would say to skim coat your sub floor with latex fortified thinset. If your not familiar with thinset, it's the mortar used to set ceramic, porcelain and natural stone tiles. It's really great for situations like these. It's pretty easy to skim coat, start in a corner and take a flat trowel and hold it at a 45 degree angle and drag the thinset with you in a side to side movement, working yourself back to a doorway or other entry. All you really want to do is leave a small/thin amount of thinset on your sub floor to have your tiles a more "even/level" surface to lay on. The thinset is pretty inexpensive. Good luck.

Answer 2

First of all, make sure that you really want these tiles to stick. If you get them really stuck, then you are really stuck with them and will have a lot of trouble replacing the floor when you decide to do something different. I have used them several times as a quick fix until I could afford something better later on. I get the floor absolutely clean and dust-free and work in about 6x6 foot sections to make sure dirt doesn't creep back onto the floor while I am working. Don't use any adhesive (such as Liquid Nails) that won't spread perfectly flat when the tile is pressed down or it will show through on the other side. Peel off the paper and don't touch the glued side. Lay your tile down in the proper place and leave it there without adjusting it once it is down. Get a roller to go over the surface to press it down firmly and then stay off of it for 24hours so the adhesive can bond properly. Good luck!

Answer 3

Any thing/chemical to remove the glue that sink into floor will affect the new tile glue. So get a/rent palm sander if not to large and med grit sand paper . go over complete floor . If you are doing a huge floor 20x20 ie yo can get a large floor sander (the floor ploisher type) and go over it to remove glue residue .

If using the 12" tile (if different use measurement in place of ft)

Clean floor (vac ) Check lay out ie You want even pieces on all walls I aim for 6" or bigger . Once figure out measure off 1 wall piece plus even ft (I like to start more in center room on one end) and snap a line or make a line using straight edge. them measure off other wall what ever piece you need plus even ft put reference mark (the edge piece size.
Peel and place first tile on line you made put just edge on snapped line and at reference mark . Follow line as close as can lay about 5-6 tile on this line . (if stay on line it will keep things nice.) then start working on right and left don't worry about cutting in you can do it last or when you get tired of laying field tile . Just make sure all corners line up.(you will find some tile that are not same sized) Just keep building you puzzle.
I never had problem with cold but the direct sunlight can make them come loose . I buy 10% or so more for all cuts and any fixes in future. Good luck

Answer 4

Your Installing self-stick vinyl tile so you only need to clean the luan under-lament. Go to your local building supplier and tell them precisely what you said here and you need a cleaner solvent to finish the cleaning to remove all the residue.
No need in buying anything else to make it "stick" better since your going as a quick fix and trying to save money.
Once cleaned, locate center of room and snap a horizontal and vertical line to go off of to keep a straight run of tiles in both directions. Be sure to lay tiles tightly together and when finished you can seal them. I buy AQUA MIX sealer and finish at my company and it has superb lasting results. Follow manufacturer's directions and you will have a near-new floor that will last a good long time at minimal cost.

Answer 5

Hey, do what you can now. You'll have a nice clean floor for the years that you wait to afford the hardwood. Two years is a long wait and I guess some people are loaded... I'm sure you'd love to just do the hardwood now. You'll be able to install over it but if you have someone else doing it they'll prob. tell you you need to get up the vinyl first. It could be a prob w/ the meeting of the exsisting floor at the hallway as far as hieght matching up. Just go measure it. Good Luck.

Answer 6

I also do not prefer stick ons but certainly I GET IT, regarding budget restraints.

Very sucinctly... Get a gallon, or quart, depending on the number of tiles,,, of a water based contact cement. Monsanto, or others manufacture it. What I use is like an aqua color.

If the sub floor is now smooth, free of residue, and well cleaned and dry, apply a coat of the cement to the floor. If need be, work in small areas at a time. Also peel off the paper protector from the back of the tile, and apply the contact cement to it.

Allow the proper dry time, then begin installing. You can use a rubber mallet, an old fashioned dough rolling pin, a large dowel, etc. to press and seal.

Once dry the water based cement is not affected by water IE: It won't dissolve if wet... It has less of a noxious odor, and in an initial cleanup is much easier. Also if you happen to get some on the face of the tile, in can be immediately washed up, and won't need a "solvent" wash as would the other contact cement, that might possibly damage the finish of the tiles.

Once the tiles are set, pressed, etc, they will not separate, slide, get dog eared corners from loss of adhesion present when you first purchased them, etc..

Steven Wolf

Answer 7

You couold use regular tile glue. You could also use Liquid Nails and put a dab in each corner and the center. Both are not very expensive and will hold. The regulat tile glue might seep through the seems if you use too much. If it were me, I'd probably use the Liquid Nails.

Answer 8

if your floor ever gets even a little cold your tiles will begin to bow upwards, this was not in my instructions when i purchased my tiles and i am now fighting with the company i purchased them from in order to have them replaced. if you do not replace the subflooring they will not be held accountable for a failed floor ! so live and learn from my mistakes, go with a more expensive floor or you will regret it within a years time!