ignition swithch, ignition module, fuel filter, fuel sending unit, it wants to start but it wont. turns over and trys but wont stay running???????????
2007-05-21 06:56:43 · 13 answers · asked by bill43352003 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
it could be a number of things. 10 to 1 it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel to the engine. i take it is a carberator. maybe the jets are dirty. it could also be running to rich which means the air fuel mixture is to strong( to much fuel to little air or the other way round) check the timing on the engine as well.
good luck hope i help
2007-05-21 07:05:11 · answer #1 · answered by guy in love 1 · 0⤊ 1⤋
I know this is an old post but i had a similar problem. It turned out to be the fuel sending switch. I thought i would be dropping the tank to change the fuel pump but instead it was a 2 minute/6 dollar job.
2014-07-16 01:45:11 · answer #2 · answered by brian 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If it fires when the key is in the "start" position, but dies when you release it, it could be a bad ignition resister. I don't know about your '90, but I had an earlier F-150 that had a resister wire bundled in with the other wiring. On my '68 the "start" position sent full voltage to the ignition for starting, and switched to "resisted" once you released the key.
2007-05-21 08:03:42 · answer #3 · answered by avnurd 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
your coil's spark is a result of an electrical magnetic field being cut by a conductor. the spark strength is directly related to magnetic field strength, the magnetic field strength is directly related to ELECTRICAL field strength. wires, cap rotor more wire, and then finally the spark plug are all NATURAL resistance in the secondary ignition circuit but everyone forgets primary ignition voltage circuit. you may have power and ground pip signal and all but is there resistance in the circuit making it week? your truck has a inline ignition suppression resistor in the main harness going to the computer check there follow the negative side coil wire till you find a black shrink wrap section with three lumps on it marked27 ohms and in4003. you will have to remove all the wire loom going from the engine under the dash and toward the computer to find it
2016-05-18 23:49:53 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Either the ignition timing is off or you have a bad distributor cap and/or rotor. First, remove the distributor cap and inspect the underside for cracks, check the points as well as the rotor for carbon buildup, then try advancing or retarding the timing by twisting the distributor clockwise/counterclockwise.
2007-05-21 07:05:41 · answer #5 · answered by Compurednek 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sound like a fuel pump. Some vehicles actually have two of them- check with ford.
2007-05-21 07:00:19 · answer #6 · answered by ForensicAccountant 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Are you sure it's getting fuel? Remove the fuel line from the carb, or injector pump, (if so equipped) and crank the engine.......is fuel coming out? If not, maybe he has a bad fuel pump?
2007-05-21 07:01:42 · answer #7 · answered by Lee R 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Sounds like your fuel pump is bad. Or your fuel pressuere regulator is defective. Or your throttle position sensor is shot.
I long for the days of no electronics.
2007-05-21 10:08:41 · answer #8 · answered by Tim B 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I'd suggest checking the timing and also the spark plug gaps. Either of these could cause the engine to run rough.
2007-05-21 08:29:59 · answer #9 · answered by Jeffrey S 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Ignition timeing or sequence is wrong.
Recheck the spark plug wires for proper sequence.
2007-05-21 07:11:17 · answer #10 · answered by Mr. KnowItAll 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋