My 325 is idling extremely rough. The RPMs fluctuate between 100 and 1,200. Sometimes it will sit at 1,200 for a minute or so, then begin violently fluctuating again. When the RPMs dip, it acts like it's about to stall, then jumps way back up to 1,200 again. It only does this when idling; otherwise the car drives normally.
Any ideas why this might be? Is it a fuel pump/line problem or something else?
2007-05-17 04:39:00 · 6 answers · asked by munkmanifesto 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
My '87 325e did the same thing, and it took me a few days to locate the source: the idle speed sensor. Mine turned out to have nothing wrong with it, but the screw had backed itself out and was trying to set the idle way too low. The computer would then overcompensate when it was nearing a stall and jump the RPM's back up.
The idle speed sensor is a metal tube above the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine bay. There are vacuum lines running to it and a screw on top. I let the car idle, then adjusted the screw until it smoothed out between 700-800 RPM. The idle fluctuated a little for the next day or two (I assume as the computer was resetting itself after all the trouble), but I've not had the problem since.
Hope this helped, and good luck!
2007-05-20 14:42:39 · answer #1 · answered by 325eDrivesMeCrazy 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I'd rule out your fuel pump, when they go out, they're out for good. Rough idling can be the thottle body position sensory or a mass air flow sensory (maybe air mass sensor). They register the amount of air flow to the engine so the fuel injectors know how much fuel to spray into the engine cylinders. If one sensory isn't working, this would cause the fuel injectors to get incorrect information upon fuel usuage.
Something else could be possible, and this happened to my car, it may look like your sensors are malfunctioning, but your intake manifold gasket could have gone bad. It can be sucking air in somewhere, causing your engine to rev up for periods of time or stalling... this problem will only get worse if not fixed and it is also bad for the engine to be taking on unfiltered air.
Your check engine light should be on for the sensory problem, but not necessarily on for a leaking intake manifold gasket.
Best option is to take it in and get a diagonstics test. If everything checks out, the mechanic can spray WD-40 or a light oil onto the intake manifold and the engine should respond by stalling or revving if it's leaking.
good luck. it's as simple as a $35 sensor or as complicated as a $600 intake gasket replacement. (possibly)
2007-05-17 05:08:29 · answer #2 · answered by Lemrechaun 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I would also check maf seances or maby just an air leak in a hose. You should idle around 500 rpms I think you may want to check but 1200 is most def a little high this sounds to me like and air leak that can cause a fluctuation in the idle and the rough ride
2007-05-17 04:51:10 · answer #3 · answered by Dori S 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Um......... what section? The physique is the comparable, the transmission is the comparable. 1988, the wonderful year the eta (e) engine became into available observed an develop interior the redline from 4500 to 4750. maximum, if no longer all areas from any E30 chassis will pass into yet another E30 in simple terms superb.
2017-01-10 04:27:36 · answer #4 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Vacuum leak.
A small vacuum hose came off the intake manifold somewhere.
2007-05-17 04:57:37 · answer #5 · answered by Mr. KnowItAll 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
87 325e
2016-12-18 07:19:35 · answer #6 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋