bikes 1st oil change?

Question

it's a little past due but i want to learn to do the basic maintenance myself. i noticed in the owners manuel that the oil filter had to be tightened to a certain torque. can anyone elaborate on this for me

Answer 1

First off, I would do this ASAP. The first oil change is the most important. I actually changed mine WAY before the dealer recommended mileage.
As for the oil filter... no one (especially not mechanics) use a torque wrench to tighten an oil filter. Use your finger to put some oil on the rubber O-ring on the filter (helps when you change the filter again) also prime the filter by putting a little oil in it. Not soo much that you cant screw the filter on without oil pouring everywhere. Once the filter is on, just hand tighten it. That's what everyone does.
A few more tips:
You will probably need an oil filter wrench or a big pair of channel-lock pliers to remove the old filter. If you dont have one, you could probably get away with stabbing a screwdriver through the side of the filter and using the handle to twist the filter loose.
Also, there is a crush washer on the drain plug. Replace this every time you change the oil. When you tighten the oil drain plug you compress this washer and it doesnt decompress when you loosen the drain plug so the washers should only be used once although there are people that re-use them. To me, it's not worth it for the 8 cents that they cost.

If you really want to torque down the oil filter. Buy a torque wrench and a special oil filter socket that fits on top of your oil filter.

PS- dont take it to the Stealer! They charge a ridiculous amount of money for the "first service" which is just a glorified oil change. Do it yourself and save the receipts.

Answer 2

I'm not a DIY kind of guy, but even I change my own oil. Personally I have never used a torque device on an oil filter, whether it be my truck, riding mower or bike and have never had an issue. I think if you look at the instructions on the box the filter comes in it will say to turn the filter 1/2 or 3/4 turn once the rubber seal makes contact with the engine. The manuals tend to go a little overboard with stuff like torquing for CYA reasons. Just my .02

Answer 3

No worries there!!!
If you have the tool to remove the oil filter then is a breeze. I just did my first oil change on my cruiser and it only took me about 15 minutes tops. I first had called the dealer and somehow they came up with $190 (first initial service) plus parts, oil & fees. I said what ever!!! I, right there canceled my extended warranty got my money back and it only cost me about $30 to do the oil change. I got the new filter from k&n that has this thing kinda like a nut welded on it so removing the filter next time will be very simple (oil filter alone was about $15). Don't worry about the torque just don't over tight it.

Answer 4

substitute the oil. Oil is low-value. with regard to the drain plug, lefty loosey, righty tighty. make particular you're turning the plug the splendid direction. If bolt continues to be tight, get a much bigger wrench or a 6 ingredient socket and a breaker bar. do not upload a quart or 2 of oil. Engine would be heavily overfilled. I consider including a small quantity of three-in-a million or marvel secret oil into the cylinder an afternoon or 2 earlier attempting a commence up. once you're arranged to commence the bike, turn over the engine some circumstances with the spark plugs bumped off. this might insure any extra oil in the cylinders is pumped out. replace plugs and attempt to commence the bike.

Answer 5

When installing the new filter - make sure the o-ring from the old filter isn't stuck to the engine (it happens).
Clean the surface till it's dry and free of dirt & oil.
Dip your finger in motor oil (the stuff you'll be using in the crankcase).
Wet the o-ring of the new filter.
Install the filter by hand.
When the o-ring get's to the engine, continue tightening with one hand till it stops turning.
You want the oil filter hand tight. Nice and snug.

Answer 6

It's PAST DUE?!? The most important oil change in your bike's life is the first one, since there will NEVER be as much crap and bits of metal floating around in it as in the first 100 miles!

You should have gotten it changed at 100 miles, then follow the regular maintenance schedule.

Answer 7

If you bought her new you might want to throw your dealership a bone. Pay him to do it. He'll know you kept up with her and the work was done right.....hopefully Y'know if you try and trade up. Otherwise you might want not to over tighten so oil pressure won't build up in the wrong place and cause uneven heat on the rings and gaskets. Harley ...Man you coulda bought a house! Take care of your investment.

Answer 8

I normally do my own stuff. For the first scheduled change, I took it to the dealer. "Giving him a bone"' as another put it. They shouldn't hassle you about being a little over. When my time was up, they couldn't fit me in. Told me "Keep riding, it's alright." Went in at about 1200 miles. It also gave me the opportunity to point out the little things. Like the loose rivet in the headlight(buzzing was driving me nuts!). It's your first chance to get whatever warranty stuff there is out of the way. It also makes it easy to just walk up to the counter and say "I want the Service manual, electrical manual and parts book."

Answer 9

Is this the first oil change ever, or the first oil change after the break in service? If the bike's new, and you haven't had the break in service done, you need to have the dealer do it.

Answer 10

It probley describes a torque setting listen in ft/lbs. If its listed in metric you'll have to convert it to ft/lbs. To achieve the desired torque you'll need a torque wrench.