what are my options for transfering an image onto metal if i want to do it myself.?

Question

notice I said if I want to do it MYSELF. Please don't tell me what companies can do it for me!

This is just a one time thing and I want to spend as less money as possible but get a professonal looking result.

The metal will most likely be Aluminum and will be a flat sheet with the deminsions of 18 by 18 inches in a diamond shape. This will be a sign that will resemble a traffic hazard sign. There will only be two colors used on the sign for the background and image.

Answer 1

Well, ..... we could use some more information ...
Is this just a one time thing? Or are you going into production? What kind of metal? What shape is the metal? (Is it flat sheets, or curved surfaces, etc?) Is the metal small enough to be handled, is it mounted on anything? And then... what are you going to do with the image ? Is this a pattern you want to transfer to the metal? or is the image itself the finished product (like a photo)?

Ok, lets assume you want to transfer an image to metal for the purpose of doing something to the metal itself, like etching or scribing it...maybe even cutting it to create silhouhettes, etc. Let's see... there is the common overhead projector, an arts/crafts projector (this type is placed OVER the original, and projects it up on a wall, or screen), etc. Tracing paper, copier, etc. Trace the pattern you want onto tracing paper, or photocopy the pattern, and tape it to the metal. You can even use paper that has a sticky backing on it...a lot of wood carvers use this type of paper to transfer their images onto the wood blank, for example.
I asked about whether this was a one time deal, or production... I know you can purchase a "printer" that will put your image right onto the metal, just like a typical desk printer uses paper. But these are a bit expensive, hehehe. Oh.. there is always lamination too... print the image onto some kind of stock (paper or transparencies), and then laminate it onto the metal.

It would help, if we had more of an idea of what your intentions were here...remember, more details will result in better answers, hehehe.

Have Fun

Answer 2

This method is simple but does require a few tires to get it right. I use it make small Circuit boards.
Start with the metal. Use a green scurby with a cleanser like comment. Scrub the metal with even strokes in one direction then again @ a 90 degree angle to the first. The idea is make little X(s)in the metal as you polish it. You should wear gloves as the oil from your hands will not help. Rinse well and scrub again with just water and dry the metal so no water film can form.

Using a "Laser" printer and photo paper print your image. You may want to mirror the image before you print as the finial product will be a mirror of the print. Use basic "staples" brand paper, the cheap stuff works best (red box. I'll add a link).
use a household iron set around 225-250 degrees. Place the print, image side down against the metal. You'll want to a have a hard flat surface that can take a lot of heat and a lot of pressure. Like a workbench. NEVER SLIDE THE IRON.NEVER LET THE IMAGE MOVE. Start at one of the corners to seal the image inplace. Work the whole area by lifting and pressing. How much force to use is hard to say. What needs to happen is that the plastic on the photo paper needs to melt while you press down and plastic sticks to the metal leaving the ink Sandwiched between.
LET THE METAL COOL
Soak the the whole thing in hot (maybe 150) water for well you'll see after some time the paper will begin to come free from the plastic. Some SOFT rubbing will help. A soft toothbrush helps in tiny areas.

Iron on transfer paper doesn't work as well as the cheap "staples" paper.
Good Luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Answer 3

With all due respect answer one has a valid point and a well known suggestion, that will work, given the right circumstances. Details would be important. I use an overhead often to enlarge images in line for transfer to panels for set construction, as well as onto walls for faux finishing after.

If that's your intent, just to have an "Image" to work, after a transfer, then it may be suitable?

Long ago I also used to use a PONCE pouch method. There would be a sheet of paper, a tool with a wheel at its end, with pins on the wheel. I'd roll the wheel over pre-drawn lines, take the paper to the object I wanted the image on, then with the Ponce pouch (filled with a chalk) pat the pouch onto the lines, creating a sort of stencil on the material I wanted to work.

Certainly there is always free hand using a pencil, etc.

There are far more expensive ways as well, such as the use of a computer, a Power Point program, and a rear projector as is used in theater.

Steven Wolf