The plastic look comes from having a glossy surface. Well, also from being plastic. Paint the plastic with model paints that you can find at your local hobby store. Flat paints will look less toy-like than glossy paints. Mr. Surfacer is essentially just a clear-coat.
2007-05-12 01:01:19
·
answer #1
·
answered by Dullspork 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
Metal Gundam Model
2016-10-21 00:49:03
·
answer #2
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
try doing shadowings and make sure you do some paining first on ur model. The dark shadows will make the gundam appear like its been through war and the pieces will look more realistic rather than just plastic. You can do this by using an air brush with some black or grey model paint. Just dont apply too much or it'll look bad | Anyways here a great website which teaches u some amazing skills in making your gundam plastic peices stand out. be sure to check it out http://www.dannychoo.com/blog_entry/eng/213/Gundam+Modeling+Tutorial/
2007-05-14 16:51:14
·
answer #3
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
If you scuff the surface to remove the shine, it will have a more realistic look. Can you do that without removing inportant detailing on the surface? I don't know. There are some flat clear paints that will help, but not sure enough to make it "real" looking. It will take time and effort to detail it the way you want. But getting rid of the glossy shine is the first step, while preserving the detailing. I don't know products well enough to recommend anything.
2007-05-12 01:15:08
·
answer #4
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
Correct painting techniques used on a model are one of the most important parts of creating realism. ONLY automobiles or airliners are glossy !! I paint my models with flat enamels or acrylics, OR give the model a coat of "Testor's Flat Coat" after if the color I needed was only available in gloss.
Some GOOD techniques on Gundam models are:
To pick a panel or two on the model to paint slightly different shade than the base color... to simulate an access-panel or repaired panel.
On hydraulic arms or shock-struts... carefully apply a coat of aluminum foil over rubber-cement... smooth it down with a Q-tip ( I use a material called Bare-Metal, but the foil works fine).
Buy DRY pastel chalks to help simulate alittle rust, dust, and or exhaust.
FIRST !! Always take your parts (on the sprue if possible) and wash gently in warm water and gentle dish soap to remove the silicone molding-release agent.
When building your model, wash your hands first to get most of the oil off your fingers !! Also take care during assembly not to put glue fingerprints on your model !!
Now I paint my models in two ways... if I remember beforehand... I prime and paint the base color(s) with the parts on the sprue !! OR I build the basic assemblies and prime and paint.
I use an airbrush 90% of the time, spray-paint 5% of the time, and a brush only for tiny details.
THE BEST thing is to buy a copy or two of "Fine Scale Modeller" from the hobby shop and practice !!
2007-05-12 08:45:43
·
answer #5
·
answered by mariner31 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
Testors dullcote is available in spray cans and will eliminate that plastic glossy look leaving you with a flat, weathered look. Experiment with some test pieces before your model.
Also adding "dirt", "battle damage" with pastels and or paint can go a long way to improving the final looks. Try different things and see what you like.
2007-05-12 02:57:41
·
answer #6
·
answered by evapodman 1
·
1⤊
0⤋
It's all advertising/marketing strategy, same as commercials. Depending on the product, they use models they think the average customer will either relate to or would like to look like to get them to buy the product.
2016-03-19 03:46:58
·
answer #7
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
Spraying the best way. As a beginner you should start from color markers first.
2007-05-12 00:03:36
·
answer #8
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
you could buy some metal colored model paint.
2007-05-11 23:53:52
·
answer #9
·
answered by br@ini@c 6
·
0⤊
0⤋