I am refinishing an oak table.?

Question

I need some help. I applied lacquer to the table, waited till it dried and applied another coat. I applied 4 coats without sanding because the can said I didn't have to sand. I looked at the table and now there are little bubbles that appeared and now it has to be redone, again.The bubbles didn't appear until it was drying. I apply the lacquer with a brush and in the shade.Why am I getting the bubbles? Is there something better to use besides the lacquer? This is the second time I have to strip it and start over.

Thank you so much!

I have to thank each and every one of you for giving me such good advice. All of you have given me such good suggestions on what to do with the table. I have to resand the table for the 3rd time and start all over again. If it doesn't look good when I'm finished, I am going to use it to build a big fire and roast some marshmallows. Thanks again!

Answer 1

I'm going to have to agree with some of what I have already read above - I also do not like or recommend the use of lacquer for your table but would suggest a water based interior Varathane (it will not yellow over time like oil has a tendency to do). It will level itself out and does not need sanding inbetween coats.

One thing with sanding with the steel wool is that it can leave small bits of steel on your finish - so beware if you decide to continue with lacquer. The experts in woodworking suggest if needed to use a self lubricating fine sandpaper instead of the steel wool.

When I redid my very large kitchen table about 9 - 10 years ago I sanded it down - restained it and applied 3 or 4 coats of water based Varathane (interior) - no sanding. This table is used and abused by everyone and everything is thrown on it (just so you get an idea its not just a pretty thing .... but functional to the max lol) Nothing has gone thru the finish on the table to the stain and it looks like I just did it.

Hope this helps

Answer 2

eh, I don't agree. I have better luck brushing very THIN coats of lacquer than applying poly. I hate poly....
This is what I would do. Sand or steel wool the existing finish until the bubbles are gone. Don't use a real course paper or wool, your just trying to get the bubbles out. Wipe the piece with laquer thinner, let dry. apply lacquer with a brush design for laquer in very thin coats, and steel wool the piece w/ 000 between each coat. The steel wooling technique gives the next coat something to grab on to.

BUT, if you started with laquer, just do laquer, mix with poly and you;ll be trying to make snot look like glass.

oh yea, try not to do it on a real humid day, I'll teach you that later

Answer 3

Use a fine brush and don't over brush it or shake the can before you use it. It dries so fast that any air you work into it won't have time to escape. Oak also has open grain that can have air in it. For the first couple of coats try thinning it out a little with laquer thinner. It will help it flow into the grain and keep it from drying as fast.

Answer 4

the laquer is probably pulling some tannins up from out of the wood, you may be putting it on too heavy, when it comes to laquer several thin coats are better than a couple heavy coats>I am uncertian as to why you are using laquer , if you wanted the sheen that laquer provides , you would have had an easier tine with high gloss polyurethene , it is more user friendly than laquer ,laquer is a very fickle product . Also laquer is meant to be sprayed,brushing laquer is never a good idea as is does not level out well when brushed...painting/woodfinishing contractor

Answer 5

I agree with the above answer. Poly is MUCH easier to work with. If you put on additional coats, you lightly rub with fine steel wool between coats.

Answer 6

Don't use a foam brush.