Yes, systemic insecticides do work - however, they will kill ANYTHING that nibbles the plant - and you most certainly don't want to use an insecticide on anything you are growing to eat. You would be ingesting the insecticide yourself.
Also - the dissapearance of honey bees is possibly linked to certain systemic insecticides - It's not really known for sure what's happening, but those are on the suspect list - since they kill indiscriminately.
There are much less toxic things to try before getting out the bazookas.
Home Spray For Insects
1 whole head of garlic, mashed
1 tablespoon fresh crushed cayenne pepper
1/4 onion, mashed
2 quarts warm water
Add together, allow to steep for two or three days. Strain into a pump spray bottle, and add a drop or two of a mild dishwashing liquid detergent. This really works well against flea beetles as well as other insects.
And here are more ideas for less-toxic pest remedys (taken from an organic webpage)
NEEM Oil
If you want a good insecticide and a good fungicide, you might wish to try NEEM oil, which is an extract of a plant. It is very good at controlling chewing insects and for controlling Powdery Mildew and Black Spot. I have found it to be a very good deterrent for Japanese Beetles. An important plus is that it is biodegradable, and as such, breaks down relatively quickly.
Japanese Beetle Control
Milky spore. Bt, and beneficial nematodes kill the grubs in the lawn. Milky spore works best in soil temps above 70 degrees and must be applied in more concentrated applications in the North than in more southerly climates. I have read where the recommendation is to apply Milky Spore at 4x the rate for those of us who live in a line north of Central Pennsylvania.
I have also read that applying beneficial nematodes as well as milky spore will help in controlling the grub population in lawns, which is the breeding ground for all those nasty beetles we see every year.
Neem oil, pyrethrin, ryania or rotenone are also biological controls that can be applied to the adult beetles.
Plant Four o'clocks, and larkspur which poison the beetles, who are fatally attracted to these plants. The leaves of castor bean plants also cause fatal feedings amongst the adults.
Tachnid flies and tiphia wasps are predatory beneficial insects. They will lay eggs in the grubs which will then hatch into larvae which will eat the grubs.
The main thing to keep in mind with most of these treatments is that it takes time to see an appreciable improvement in the decline of the beetles and their grubs. Patience is the key, and a multiple approach for organic control might be necessary. You will see immediate results with biological pesticides, but the long-term results will be evident with nematodes, parasitic insects, and milky spore.
Sabadilla
Sabadilla comes from the seeds of the sabadilla lily. It is considered to be one of the least toxic of insecticides in regards to residual effects since it breaks down rapidly, although it is irritating to the eyes and will cause nasal irritation and sneezing if inhaled. So, if you do decide to dust with Sabadilla, use a mask and safety glasses and apply on a windless day. (We should all have masks and safety glasses when applying any chemical, anyway)!
This botanical insecticide breaks down rapidly in sunlight and UV radiation, and begins to break down almost immediately with no residue. Why use it? Because of its rapid breakdown and lack of residue. If you have an infestation of caterpillars, such as cabbage butterfly larvae, squash bugs, leaf hoppers and thrips, the bugs will ingest the Sabadilla and this is a stomach poison for them as well as a contact poison. Because of its rapid breakdown, it is an excellent organic pesticide to use in vegetable gardens. Of course, rinse off any vegetables or fruits that you may dust with Sapadilla as with any insecticide!
Ryania
Another of the botanical pesticides, Ryania is an extract of a tropical plant, Ryania speciosa. It is a stomach poison, and acts as as an appetite suppressant initially. It does take some time to work, so use this in conjunction with other pest deterrents. It is effective against a wide range of insects, including caterpillars, Tomato Horn Worm Aphids, Asparagus Beetle, Bean Leaf Beetle, Blister Beetles, Japanese Beetles, Colorado Potato Beetles, Corn Earworms, Cucumber Beetles, Leaf miners, rollers, and hoppers, and mites.
Pyrethrum and Pyrethrins
Pyrethrum is an extract of a plant, while Pyrethrins are the active compounds that are the pesticide. It is a broad-spectrum pesticide, and will control many different pests including mites, aphids, and stink bugs. It is a paralyzer, and eventually the insects that come in direct contact with this pesticide will recover. After applying, you can spray plants with insecticidal soap to finish the extermination process.
Rotenone
Another extract from tropical plants, Rotenone is another broad-spectrum organic pesticide. It is toxic to fish, and as such, should be avoided around ponds or other water features. It has a low residual effect. Although harmless to bees, it can kill other beneficial insects.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)
Bt is very effective against many grubs, larvae, and chewing insects. This bacterium causes the insect to develop digestive problems, and they cannot continue to feed on plants. It switches off the feeding mechanism and they simply die. Useful on lawns for grub control and in the garden on hornworms, cabbage loopers, and Colorado potato beetles, use this on those areas only where these insects are the primary problem. Avoid using Bt on or near host plants for beneficial insects such as Monarch butterflies.
There are various strains of Bt, so be sure that the strain you are using is effective against the targeted insect pest.
2007-05-09 03:09:56
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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