Engine overheating or faulty system?

Question

I was driving today and my "Check Gauges" light came on. I noticed that the engine temp was high, as the needle was all the way over in the red zone.

It stayed on for 15 seconds, went off, then the needle dropped back down into the "middle temp" (between lowest and highest) where it usually is.

The AC was off and there was no noises, smoke, or anything coming from the engine.

I am thinking it's just some fault or computer glitch.

What do you think?

Answer 1

Very easily could be the thermostat. They are not very costly and on many cars easy to change.

They now make a fail safe t-stat that I have no experience with. Could be your engine has one and what you desribed may be how they behave. Ask at a parts house with knowledgable counter guys.

Answer 2

Could be that the engine thermostat momentarily stuck, then opened normally allowing the engine to cool back down, depending on whether the fault has now been cleared a mechanic should be able to look at the log that is generated when you get the Check Gauges light. This will tell you if it was a 'real' problem or not.

Answer 3

You won't necesarily get noise and smoke when you overheat, however it sounds like this was indeed some electronic hiccup. Very strange.....
Can't tell anymore without a lot more info, but I would check coolant level right away. Also, try the heater and make sure that's working; that you're actually getting heat out. If the Check Engine light doesn't stay on, then there's may not be a code stored to tell you what happened.
I would definitely get it diagnosed if it happens again......

Answer 4

If it happened to my car, it would be abnormal. In the red zone, water vapor could be seen coming out of the radiator's spill-tank/reservoir.

From experience, being stationary my car's radiator fan takes about 3 to 5 minutes to cool down a red zoned radiator to middle temperature. On the move, it takes about 3 minutes.
For 15 seconds to cool down, does it snow at your place?

Check your radiator fluid level. Should the fuild level be near maximum, I would conclude a sensor/thermostat glitch. Otherwise, quickly top up, and visit mechanic to plug leak.

Only recently, I had my sensor replaced because it would randomly fail to enable/trigger the radiator fan, when engine temperature is above middle temperature.

It is advisable to monitor your engine temperature the next few times you drive your car.

Answer 5

The best way to figure this out is to go to a mechanic. He has a device that will talk to your vehicle and indicate the faults or show where the malfunction is. Make sure if you`re over-heating to turn the heat on...this will let some of the heat produced by your engine to escape and decrease the likeliness of your car getting damaged. GOOD LUCK!

Answer 6

exchange your radiator cap there are alleviation valves interior it sounds like one is undesirable if that's boiling in the hose. i does not be irritating that it get's warmer while close off, via fact the coolant is moved by ability of the water pump that's merely pumping while the engine is working. The followers are electric from what your asserting, and that may not uncommon in any respect, that's used to combat off warmth soak of the engine. Your warmth isn't working??? Heater center or hose is plugged. returned flush or replace. wish I helped ya

Answer 7

What is the year, make and model and engine size?
When was the last time you had the vehicle serviced?
When was the last time you checked the radiator fluid?

Answer 8

If it's a newer model vehicle it may be the clutch fan motor. Just went thru that with my work truck.(2001 F-150 4x4)

Answer 9

check your thermostat, theres definitely an issue there. it could be faulty, if you have a check engine or any light that stays on, definitely go have your ecu read for a fault code.

Answer 10

that could be caused by a few things..the thermostat might not have opened,or the fan didnt come on,that usually happens on chevys