2007-05-08 07:12:40 · 8 answers · asked by victoria d 1 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Boats & Boating
Really easy. Wear a respirator. Rough it out with a chisel. Expose some of the original fibres. To be really sure, place a piece of 9mm plywood inboard, behind the hole - secure if necessary with screws thru the skin from outboard, around the edge of the hole (they can be countersunk and filled, as you go). Or if you prefer, put polyethylene sheet between the wood and inboard surface and remove completely and fill with filler after finishing the repair.
Fill the hole with fibre-based filler first (eg: "Isopon, P40"). Rough sand, then fill/fair with smooth filler (eg: P38).
If below the waterline be sure to paint with a high quality resin paint such as a solvent-free epoxy, or gelcoat resin (no need to add pigment). If above the waterline, then finish off with gelcoat resin, mixed with a tiny amount of the appropriate pigment and smooth down gradually to a shine. Start with 240 grit wet/dry, thru to 1200, 'T-Cut' and polish.
Done!
2007-05-08 23:31:39 · answer #1 · answered by Girly Brains 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Use only epoxy for this repair, polyester resins form a secondary bond and don't hold the same strength and on a planing hull strength is important. Measure the thickness of the existing hull laminate multiply that measurement by 12 and that will give you a suitable taper to spread the working load. For mat use a woven bi-axial cloth, calculate its thickness loaded with resin to find out how many laminates is required to cover the repair area. Start with the largest patch and work in a decreasing pattern until the tapered area is now flush. To avoid thermoset you may want to do just a few laminates at a time. Finish with a fill coat and sand flush. For aesthetics finish repair short of surface an flush with matching gel-coat, sand and polish to match surrounding area.
Use a good quality resin and cloth like SP systems (Isle of Wight) on www.gurit.com they have loads of work sheets and a good after sales support if you need advice.
Feel free to e-mail me if I can help any further.
2007-05-09 12:33:54 · answer #2 · answered by mohara_geminidawn 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Easy, but you need to do it right, especially if it's in a strength area. You need to feather the edge of the hole inside and out to expose a large area of undamaged f-glass and make sure that the repair bonds to the sides of the hole and the surrounding surface. Just plugging the hole won't do. Particular care needs to be taken to re-instate the outer gel-coat to protect the repaired area.
2007-05-08 21:19:45 · answer #3 · answered by The original Peter G 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Both Wendal and Mark have the right idea and both ideas work fine. The foam will cost you 6-8 quid a can though and to be honest getting some glass mat behind the hole by using the ply disc (stiffish plastic or card would also do) will make for a slightly stronger repair.
2016-04-01 02:41:47 · answer #4 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Very easy, you will need to remove the damaged part of the hull and patch it up with a fibre glass kit.
2007-05-09 02:50:54 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Is it in the inner or outer layer? Basically, cut out all the damaged/ old material around the hole. Get a fibreglass repair kit and follow the instructions.
2007-05-08 07:23:19 · answer #6 · answered by proud walker 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Rough up the area round the hole and fill with 'fibrefill' (made by tetrosyl if I remember correctly) Makes an excellent repair.
2007-05-08 08:05:30 · answer #7 · answered by mal g 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Very easy and plenty of off the shelf quick fix kits available.
2007-05-08 07:25:46 · answer #8 · answered by James Mack 6 · 1⤊ 0⤋