About the thickness of a 2x4 should be sufficient. You can actually make the frame from 2x4's
Put about 3 - 4 inches of grade 8 gravel down first. Level the gravel and tamp it down.
You probably don't want to mess with mixing your own. Check the price to get it delivered or check some of you local tool rental places. Some mix concrete and will rent you a trailer rig that you can haul it with.
You should need about 2.5 yards. (6' X 10' X .33') / 9.
2007-05-08 03:15:54
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answer #1
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answered by Mark B 5
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Contrary to what others have said, I definitely would not use 2x4's for your forms. A 2x4 will only give you enough thickness to give you marginal strength at best and depending on what will be around the slab - grass, stone, etc. - you might not have enough slab to keep the bottom of it from sticking out. You want it enough above grade so that water will drain off of it and not on to it. Use 2x6's instead and make sure you get the top of the slab at least 3" above the surrounding grade. Then set you forms so the slab will slope. 1/8" per foot is plenty for what your doing. Use wood stakes to hold the forms in place - one stake every 3 feet should work but make sure you get them pounded in deep enough to hold the forms. Concrete that is being worked can exert an amazing amount of pressure on forms. And make sure the top of the stake is below the side of the form otherwise when you go to screed the concrete you'll be grumpy. Nail the forms to the stakes. It doesn't hurt to oil your forms prior to pouring. For what you're doing, a bottle of motor oil will work and just brush it or wipe it on with a rag. Use 4" wire mesh in the bottom.over your gravel base. Rent a concrete tamper and a float You can use a board on edge to screed the concrete. Have your concrete delivered - you'll be glad you did. They will ask you what mix and slump you want. Tell them you just want a sidewalk mix - which is usually a 5 1/2 bag/3/4 rock mix and if it's going to be warm and since you're new to this, tell them you want the slump a little on the runny side and let them take it from there. Normally you'd ask for a 3 or 4 slump. Pour your concrete. If the truck can't get within working distance from your slab you'll have to have them dump it in a wheel barrow and you'll have to wheel it to the forms. Start on one end and start tamping, then with the screed board resting on the top of your forms pull the excess concrete toward you, filling in any voids as you go. Rent a concrete tamper, a float, and an edge tool from a local rental store. If you don't have a push broom, you should pick up one of those too. Now you've formed the slab, poured the concrete, tamped it to get the air pockets out, and screed it off. Now take your float and in large circular motions, start smothing the concrete. DON'T over work it or you'll bring the sand to the surface. When you've got all this done, take your broom and going across the short dimension of your slab, pull the broom across the concrete. This will give you a nice looking, non-slip surface and the broom tracks will hide and small imperfections in your float work. When you get this done, take your edge tool and go around the perimeter. Now, just let your slab cure for a couple of days and you're done!!
2007-05-08 11:20:05
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answer #2
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answered by 55Spud 5
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Form out a 2 x 4 frame out of lumber at your 6' x 10' measurements. Square the frame by taping corner to corner, when the measurements are equal your frame is square. Purchase or get cut for you 2 -1/2" x 5'-11" re-bar and 4 - 1/2" x 9'-11" rebar, purchase the amount of concrete bags you need, I would guess around 30- 80# bags and rent a mixer. Follow the instructions on the bag for mixing its usually 1 gallon of water per 80# bag. As your pouring the concrete raise your re-bar so its aprox. 1-1/2" off the ground. You will then skreed it, slide another 2 x 4 on top of your frame and this will even out your concrete. You will need to rent a couple trowels, one to bring the fat to the surface (float) and 1 to finish. Once you can apply hand pressure to the slab without you hand sinking in more than 1/4" you need to use the float to bring the fat up, then use the finish trowel to smooth it out. Repeat 1 more time and your complete. I would apply a cure n seal product with in a couple hours of finishing, this can be rolled or sprayed, the next day remove your forms.
2007-05-08 10:26:37
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answer #3
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answered by Tutto Bene 4
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You should be able to do this with a tiny mixer. I've even heard of people mixing batches for this type of area in a wheelbarrow. Your first need to prepare the base by creating a solid level surface in the dirt. Create the form for which you would like to pour from 2X4 boards or particle board. Put down a few inches of 1/4 inch stone/ aggregate. Pack it. Soak it down and pack it again. This should be a relatively solid surface. You should put down some Steel re-bar in a grid. There should be no more than one square foot of space that does not have steel support. For a dog kennel you may be able to get away with four inches of concrete depending on where you live. If you are in a colder climate or plan to put excessive weight you may want to bump this up to six inches.
2007-05-08 10:20:59
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answer #4
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answered by shaunborges 2
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With all due respect, HELP would be a good idea, and would allow no rental of a mixer. With enough people doing the pouring, screeding, etc. the mix will be Ok through the process in the timing. One or two mixing. I've often used another person, a tarp, the bag of mix, water, and each holding 2 corners mixed the cement by manipulating the tarp, then pouring it into post holes, footer holes, etc. If you choose a wheel barrow, concrete mixing tub, or 5 gallon buckets, the method of mixing can be a garden hoe or corded drill with a mixer bit. In that method I'd suggest a heavy duty drill that accepts up to a 1/2 inch bit shaft.
Grade the plot, level it, square it, frame it with 2x and stakes for support, mix and pour. Assume that a 65 pound bag of cement///PRE MIX please, covers about 1.5 cubic ft. Using a depth of 4 inches, which is adequate for your needs, convert the coverage to sq. ft. No real need of weed barrier is needed but you can lay out slab screen wire or rebar for reinforcing. Certainly you can add a plastic tarp type moisture barrier if you wish, but it's not strictly neccesary.
You can make the screed/float tools as well, with 1x4's and 2x2's creating something akin to a garden rake, with the 1x4 flat to the surface you'll move it over.
Considering its purpose you need not be so concerned about aesthetics, or decoration.
Depending on the type of fencing/caging you have in mind, you might include posts or anchor bolts as you pour and keep them plumb as you move along. You avoid the task, after the fact of drilling into concrete. Certainly the fence could enclose the slad OUTSIDE of its perimeter as well.
Steven Wolf
2007-05-08 10:29:14
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answer #5
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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Lay down 2 inch river stone instead. It looks better, doesn't crack and when it rains or he pees it drains away.
2007-05-08 21:28:15
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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