What should I consider before getting a Ball Python?

Question

I have been wanting a Ball Python for a while now, but I dont want to rush out and get one without knowing what exactly what I'm getting into. I have two dogs, and everyone is telling me the snake will eat them! I know they can get up to 4ft but could it really eat a small dog? Are they able to escape? How often do you feed them? How much should I be ready to pay for one? How fast do they grow? Do they stink? Is there another type of snake that would be better?

Answer 1

these guys have some awesome answers.

things to consider...


the snake will live for at least 20 years. do you see yourself still having him then?
i would also look into corn snakes. they get just as big, although a little thinner, are just as tame, but come in some craaaazy colors
check it out www.cornsnakemorphs.com
um what else... hm....

let me just give you the basic care sheet on them and say thank god your not getting a turtle. red eared sliders are everywhere on this forum, and 99 percent of people dont do any research before they buy.....

Melissa Kaplan's
Herp Care Collection
Last updated April 19, 2007
Ball Pythons

Python regius

©1996 Melissa Kaplan



Natural History
Ball pythons (Python regius) are found at the edges of the forest lands of Central and Western Africa. They are equally comfortable on the ground and in trees. They are crepuscular, active around dawn and dusk. Called royal pythons in Europe, here in the United States we call them "balls" due to their habit of curling themselves up into a tight ball when they are nervous, their heads pulled firmly into the center. Like most pythons, ball pythons are curious and gentle snakes.

Ball pythons typically reach 4 feet (1.2 m) in length; occasionally there are specimens that reach 5 feet (1.5 m). When properly fed, their bodies become nicely rounded. Like all pythons and boas, ball pythons have anal spurs. These single claws appearing on either side of the vent are the vestigial remains of the hind legs snakes lost during their evolution from lizard to snake millions of years ago. Males have longer spurs than do the females; males also have smaller heads than the females.

Ball pythons, like all pythons and boas, devour a variety of prey in the wild - amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and small mammals. They do not eat mice in the wild, however, and do not recognize the mice we offer them as being something edible. Thus, imported wild-caught ball pythons tend to be very picky eaters, at least initially, and drive their owners to distraction in their attempts to get them to eat something.

Ball pythons are reputed to be able to go for extended periods of time without food; wild-caught ball pythons have gone for a year or more without food until finally enticed to eat lizards and other snakes. This is not a healthy trait and must not be a reason for selecting this species. This should also make you suspicious when a pet store tells you that their ball pythons are eating well.

Buying captive-born ball pythons reduces the stress on the threatened populations in the wild and helps ensure you will get a healthy, established eater and a snake already used to contact with humans. Buying from a reputable breeder will ensure that you will get the help and advice you need to assure that your ball feels comfortable and secure enough to eat after you bring it home and let it get settled for a week or so.

With the increased popularity of reptiles as pets there is increased pressure on wild populations. In addition to the more than 60,000 ball pythons that are imported annually, ball pythons are killed for food and their skin is used for leather in their native land. For some reason, despite their low reproduction rate, wild ball pythons are the least expensive pythons on the market, generally wholesaling for under ten dollars. Imported ball pythons also harbor several different types of parasites which may go unnoticed by the novice snake owner. All around, it is better to buy a captive-born hatchling or an established, well-feeding juvenile, sub-adult or adult than an imported ball of any age.

In captivity, young ball pythons will grow about a foot a year during the first three years. They will reach sexual maturity in three to five years. The longest living ball python on record was over 48 years old when it died. Egg-layers, female ball pythons encircle their four to ten eggs, remaining with then from the time they are laid until they hatch. During this three month period, they will not leave the eggs and will not eat.



Getting Started

Selecting Your Ball Python
Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent, clear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. All ball pythons are naturally shy about having their heads touched or handled by strangers; a normal reaction is for the ball to pull its head and neck sharply away from such contact. When held, the snake should grip you gently but firmly when moving around. It should be alert to its surroundings. All young snakes are food for other, larger snakes, birds, lizards and mammalian predators so your hatchling may be a bit nervous at first but should settle down quickly.

Selecting an escape-proof enclosure
Select an enclosure especially designed for housing snakes, such as the glass tanks with the combination fixed screen/hinged glass top. All snakes are escape artists; ball pythons are especially powerful and cunning when it comes to breaking out. A good starter tank for a hatchling is a 10 gallon tank (approximately 20"L x 10"W [50 x 25 cm]). A young adult requires a 20 gallon tank, and full adult may require a 30 gallon tank (36" x 12"W [91 x 35 cm]).

Select a suitable substrate
Use paper towels at first. These are easily and quickly removed and replaced when soiled and, with an import, will allow you to better monitor for the presence of mites and the condition of the feces. Once the animal is established, you can use more decorative ground cover such as commercially prepared shredded cypress or fir bark. Pine and aspen shavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while eating, causing respiratory and other problems. The shavings must be monitored closely and all soiled and wet shavings pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths. The utilitarian approach is to use inexpensive Astroturf. Extra pieces can be kept in reserve and used when the soiled piece is removed for cleaning and drying (soak in one gallon of water to which you have added two tablespoon of household bleach; rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before reuse). Remember: the easier it is to clean, the faster you'll do it!

Provide a hiding place
A half-log is available at pet stores. An empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced with a new one. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to hide its entire body inside; you will need to eventually replace it as your snake grows. Ball pythons prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours; they also like to sleep in something that is close around them, so do not buy or make too big of a cave for its size. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the tank with some fake greenery screening part of it; your ball will enjoy hanging out in the "tree."

Keeping it warm
Proper temperature range is essential to keeping your snake healthy. The ambient air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between 80-85F (27-29 C)-during the day, with a basking area kept at 90F (32.5 C). At night, the ambient air temperature on the coolest side may be allowed to drop down no lower than 73-75F ( 23-24 C) only if a basking area of at least 80F (27 C) remains available.

Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a temperature about 20 degrees higher than the air temperature may be used inside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the underside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads made for people, available at all drug stores, are also available; these have built-in hi-med-lo switches and can be used under a glass enclosure. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required for the basking area. All lights must be screened off to prevent the snake from burning itself.

All pythons, especially ball pythons, are very susceptible to thermal burns. For this same reason do not use a hot rock. New on the market are ceramic heating elements. They radiate heat downwards, do not emit light, and are reported to be long lasting. Plugged into a thermostat will enable you to adjust the temperature inside the tank as the ambient room temperature changes with the seasons.

Buy at least two thermometers - one to use in the overall area 1" (2.5 cm) above the enclosure floor, and the other 1" (2.5 cm) above the floor in the basking area. Don't try to guess the temperature - you will either end up with a snake who will be too cold to eat and digest its food or one ill or dead from overheating.

Humidity
Ball pythons are native to generally temperate to arid areas. Depending on where you live, they may be fine with the ambient humidity. If there are any problems shedding, or feces are dry when deposited or there is straining to defecate, check the humidity with a hygrometer and get it up to 50 percent. When shedding, they will need higher humidity: increase enclosure humidity to 60-65 percent, or mist daily during the shed. If you bathe them in a warm bath the day their eyes clear, they should shed completely within 24 hours.



Lighting
No special lighting is needed. Ball pythons are nocturnal snakes, spending their days in the wild securely hidden away from possible predators. To make it easier to see your ball during the day, you can use a full-spectrum light or low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day. Make sure the snake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs as ball pythons are very prone to getting seriously burned. Respect your ball's needs, however, and be sure to provide a hide box, and expect them to use it!



Feeding
Allow your snake to acclimate to its new home for a couple of weeks. Start your hatchling (about 15" in length) off with a single pre-killed one week to 10-day old "fuzzy" mouse. A smaller sized hatchling may require a smaller mouse; try a pre-killed 5-day old. Older ball pythons may be fed larger pre-killed mice or pinkie rats. If you have not had any experience force feeding a snake, you may not want to try it yourself until you have seen someone do it. Force feeding, whether of a mouse or with a formula inserted by catheter and syringe, is very stressful for the snake (and it isn't much fun for the owner!). If your new ball has gone several months without eating and is beginning to noticeably lose weight, take it to a reptile vet or contact your local herpetology society and ask to speak to someone who is knowledgeable about ball pythons and feeding problems. A good inexpensive book that covers some of the tricks to enticing reluctant ball pythons to feed is The Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons by Philippe de Vosjoli, or the new edition, The Ball Python Manual, by de Vosjoli, Dave and Tracy Barker and Roger Klingenberg.



Water
Provide a bowl of fresh water at all times. Your snake will both drink and soak, and may defecate, in it. Check it daily and change when soiled. Soaking is especially good just before a shed. When they eyes clear from their milky opaque, or "blue" state, soak the snake in a tub of warm water for ten minutes or so, then lightly dry it off, and return it immediately to its tank; it should shed cleanly within twenty-four hours.



Health problems
Routine veterinary care for newly acquired snakes is essential. Many of the parasites infesting ball pythons and other reptiles can be transmitted to humans and other reptiles. Left untreated, such infestations can ultimately kill your snake. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces in a clean plastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, your name and phone number and the snake's name, then take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced with reptiles. There it will be tested and the proper medication given if worms or protozoan infestations are found.

A common problem encountered in captivity include retained eye shed (spectacles) and mites. When snakes shed their skin, the layer of skin over their eye is also shed, and can be clearly seen when looking at a piece of head shed. Always check your ball's head shed to assure it has shed the spectacles. If one or both spectacles have been retained, bathe the snake again in warmish water for about ten minutes. Before returning it to the enclosure, place a dab of mineral oil on that eye with a cotton-tipped swab. The spectacle should come off within twenty-four hours. If it does not come off, wrap your four fingers with transparent tape, sticky side out. Gently rock your fingers from left to right (or, from nose to neck) across the eye; the spectacle should come off. If this does not removed the spectacle, then seek veterinary assistance.

Mites are a sign of poor environmental conditions. Adult mites are tiny reddish brown dots barely bigger than the period at the end of this sentence. You may first notice them swarming over your hand and arm after you have handled your snake (don't worry--they are harmless to humans) or see them moving around your snake's body or clustered around the eyes. Mites are harmful to snakes, especially ones that have not been kept properly. On the positive side, they are easy and relatively inexpensive to get rid of, although the process is time-consuming. Read the article Getting Rid of Reptile Mites to find out the best ways to eradicate them.

Snakes, including ball pythons, should routinely shed is one piece, from snout (including spectacles) to tail-tip. If a snake does not shed cleanly, it is a sign that something is not right, either with the snake or with its environment. Newly acquired snakes may not shed properly for the first month or two as they are getting acclimated to their new surroundings. This is a sign of transient stress. If it continues, or begins to occur in a long established snake, the snake must be evaluated for possible health problems, and the snake's environment must be evaluated for humidity problems.



Humidity and Ball Pythons
Ball pythons are native to very warm, but not hot, dry areas in Africa. Many people make the mistake of trying to keep them in a too humid overall environment, using damp sphagnum moss or misting them frequently throughout the day. The problem with this is that keeping the overall environment damp leads to conditions such as blister disease where in the skin, usually of the belly, becomes covered with blisters, leading to bacterial infections of the skin, which in turn leads to overall health problems.

In fact, all a ball python needs is an area within its dry enclosure to which to retreat when it requires higher humidity. One way to accomplish this is to provide a water bowl large enough for the snake to soak in when it wants. Depending on the ambient room (and thus enclosure) humidity, this may be enough, or may be enough during part of the year. Another good, safe option for a ball python is a humidity retreat box.



Handling your new snake
After giving your ball a couple of days to settle in, begin picking it up and handling it gently. It may move away from you, and may threaten you by lashing it's tail and hissing; don't be put off - it is usually just a bluff, and snakes, like most reptiles, are very good at bluffing! Be gentle but persistent. Daily contact with each other will begin to establish a level of trust and confidence between you and your snake. When it is comfortable with you, you can begin taking it around the house. Don't get overconfident! Given a chance and close proximity to seat cushions, your ball will make a run (well, a slither) for it, easing down between the cushions and from there, to points possibly unknown. Always be gentle, and try to avoid sudden movements. If the snake wraps around your arm or neck, you can unwind it by gently grasping it's tail and gently unwrapping it from around your neck or arm - do not try to unwrap it by moving the head. Some snakes are a bit sensitive about being handled soon after they have eaten. If you feed your snake out of it's enclosure, go ahead and replace it back into it's enclosure after it has finished eating. Then leave it be for a couple of days. As the snake gets more comfortable with you, it will be less nervous and less likely to give you back your mouse.



Inclusion Body Disease / Quarantine
Inclusion body disease (IBD) is a virus that affects boas and pythons (boids). It is always fatal in pythons. Unfortunately, the lust to sell has overcome common sense in private breeders as well as pet stores and wholesalers, and an increasing number of boas and pythons are being sold who are infected with this virus.

Always spend a considerable amount of time observing boids before you buy them, especially at pet stores. Even reptile specialty stores have been selling infected stock so buying from such stores is no guarantee that you are buying an uninfected/unexposed snake. Don't buy a boid because you feel sorry for it, because it looks sick and the store isn't providing proper care for it - you may lose every boid you own.

Always observe strict quarantine procedures when bringing in a new boid into your house if you already have other boids. IBD may take several months to manifest itself. Owners have reported their new snakes showing signs as little as one month after acquiring hatchlings to well over one year after acquiring a new boid.

Always have boids who are not acting well (loss of appetite, regurgitating meals, mouthrot, respiratory infection, contorted body positions, stargazing) seen by a reptile vet as soon as possibly after symptoms are noticed. Warn the vet before coming in that it may be IBD so they may take precautions to reduce exposure to other boids who may be in their office at that time.

Remember that it doesn't require snake-to-snake contact to spread the disease. You may unwittingly spread it by handling other snakes without first thoroughly washing your hands. Viruses are airborne - think twice about taking your snakes to places where they will encounter snakes belonging to people who may not be taking proper precautions.



Necessities
Some things you should have on hand for general maintenance and first aid include: Nolvasan (chlorhexidine diacetate) for cleaning enclosures and disinfecting food and water bowls, litter boxes, tubs, sinks, your hands, etc. Betadine (povidone/iodine) for cleansing scratches and wounds. Set aside a food storage bowl, feeding and water bowls, soaking bowl or tub, even sponges, to be used only for your snake.



Enjoy yourselves
You have a companion that will be a part of your life for a great many years if taken care of properly. They should remain alert and active well into their old age. The main causes of death of snakes in captivity are directly related to their care: improper temperatures, contact with heating and lighting elements, no regular access to water, lack of necessary veterinary care and treatment, careless handling--all things for which we, as their caretakers, are directly responsible.



Sources

The Ball Python Manual, by Philippe de Vosjoli, Dave and Tracy Barker, and Roger Klingenberg, 1995. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Lakeside CA.

Completely Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and Amphibians, by Obst, Richter and Jacob. 1988. TFH Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ.

Snakes of the World, by Scott Weidensaul. 1991. Chartwell Books, Seacacus, NJ.

Living Snakes of the World, John M. Mehrtens. 1987. Sterling Publishing Co. New York.

Answer 2

Very intelligent of you to be doing your research before you purchase. Ball pythons reach between 3 - 4 feet as adults and usually take medium size rats at that size. The snake is likely in more danger from your dogs then vice versa. Snakes will explore every weakness in their cage and can fit through surprisingly small areas so a secure, heavy or locking lid is essential. I usually feed young snakes weekly and adults about 2 or three times a month depending on the size of prey they are taking. The price depends on your area. They can reach adult size in 1 1/2 to 2 years depending on the feeding schedule and if their cage is not cleaned of droppings an odour will eventually develop but generally no snakes do not smell. Ball pythons can be picky feeders so just make sure that you deal with a reputable store or breeder that can provide you a reliable feeding record for that snake. You may want to look into corn snakes as well. They are easy to keep, an excellent beginner snake and come in a large array of colour mutations. Good luck with your choice.

Answer 3

Both of the above very good answers. My Ball Python is a very picky eater. The dogs will hurt the snake before the snake will hurt the dogs (they are to big for the snake to eat). The Ball (Royal) Python is a very gentle laid back snake. Mine eats a mouse a week right now but am going to start feeding small rats next month, than he will only eat every other week. They are not very active in the daylight hours but will explore every nook and cranny in the cage as soon as the sun goes down. You will need a heavy or locking top for the cage because they will escape just because they can.

my.pclink.com/~dkelley/python.html
The above link might help you. Also very good of you to research the snake before buying.

Answer 4

I love ball pythons as they don't get very big at all as compared to the other constrictors and so are easy to handle. As the previous post stated, be careful for them escaping, and yes, you will worry more about the dogs killing the snake than vice versa. Be ready for a notoriously picky snake. Mine went on a hunger strike and didn't want to eat for almost a year. Still looked like she was in good shape, but turned me into a basket case. I ended up giving her to a herpetologist friend of mine who force fed her a couple of times, and then she started eating again on her own. I raised my own rats so I knew what kind of nutrition she was getting, and the rats were smellier than she was. I would give my extra rats to the University herpetology prof for his snake collection. As for price, you can expect to pay anywhere from $30-120 here in Southeast Missouri depending on the size of the snake and where it was purchased. I personally would get a corn snake, though. There are so many colors to choose from, and they tend to be more active as well.

Answer 5

I know of one person that had a red tail python. They are the best tempered of the pythons. He was kept in an aquarium with a heater that they got from the pet store. One mouse every 10 days when they are little, but more often when they get older. You can buy the mice frozen and then just warm them up in the microwave.

Answer 6

well if you want a ball python then get one. what does having 2 dogs have to do with wanting a ball python, nothing, and who ever told you that they will eat small dogs they don't know about snakes. first of all they only get about 4-5 feet long and no they do not eat dogs, they eat rats. yes they do know how to escape if you don't keep the top on tight. they can be fed every week or 2 times a week. it depends on the ball. if you want a good one then you can pay between $80- $100 for one. that is good that you are doing research on them first before you get one. they will grow fast if you feed them on a regular basis. they do not stink and if they do it is because of their cage. the only way they will smell is if you leave them in their cage with poop. if this will be your first snake then get a ball python because they are the best for beginners. i breed them and i have 6 of them, my kids hold them all the time and they are great with kids too.

if you do get one then you will need to get these things for him:
1) tank
2) bedding(carefresh)
3) water bowl
4) heating pad(under tank heater)
5) heat light
6) uvb light
7) light fixtures
8) hiding place
9) a fake tree for looks
10) thermometer for heat
11) humidity thermometer

Once you get this stuff for them they are easy to care for. if you get a female she can reach a size of 5ft and if you get a male then he can reach 4ft. the good thing is that they don't get very big and they are not mean either. they are one of the most docile snakes for beginners. also to if you go out looking at some then you want to make sure that you look at one that is very active and that is moving around alot because if you get one that is not moving around and that does stay in a ball when you hold him then there is a chance that he may be ill. look to see if their eyes are clear, body color is bright, and that they have no scares, having scars means that they fought with their food and that usually says that they will shy away from their food. balls can be stressed out from their food so you will need to make sure that when you feed, feed them in a bucket. they like small tight places to hids and they also like it to be dark when they hide. when feeding them you want to make sure also that you only feed food that is the same size as the biggest part of their body(middle). they also will hybernate in the cooler months so when they don't eat it is ok but when the weather gets warmer they will want to eat alot. they will be less active during Oct-March and they will be very active in April- Sept. so during the less active months they will not want to eat much but during the active months they will be hungry all the time. i hope you this is good for you and if you get one then good luck.

Answer 7

Hello & Kudo's for doing the Homework before you buy..so I'll provide with the reptile site/store we use, they have all the KNOW about any kind of legal reptile...whether you buy from them or not..cuz they care about reptiles..not just if you buy from them...Take Care :) P.S we have dogs too, they are not a problem to dogs, unless they get the wrap on them, while they won't eat them..they can strangle them but any reptile NEEDS a Secure enclosure, especially snakes cuz they are VERY STRONG & SLINKY !!!

Answer 8

they might bite and u have 2 concider time to hold it everyday otherwise they get mean and a nother good snake is a king snake they usually very nice

Answer 9

Go to this site and read it. It tells you all about them and their care, Great pets,
http://www.reptilerescueca.org/Ball.html