i dont keep my red ear slider turtles in sunlights but i do provide with tubelight...is it OK?

Question

is the tubelight UV light

Answer 1

Tube lighting for fish is not UV anything lighting and really a waste. Your turtle must have UVA and UVB lighting. They do make UVB in tube lighting form but not UVA. The UVA lighting is not recomended as a tube as it is supposed to warm up one specific part of the tank (basking area) and that alone. If you tube light it, your whole tank will be too hot and then your turtle won't bask which leads to lots of shell infections and even death. UVB lighting is needed through out the whole of the tank. This metabolizes calcium and produces and metabolizes vitamin D3 which prevents metabolic bone disease which is fatal. To get the UVB, you can use a tube light but this isn't always best as most people have a lid that goes all the way across a tank and not 1/2 or 3/4 of the way to accomodate for the basking spot. You can get rid of the tube lighting and lid and just put clamp lights. This is really easier and better for the turtle. You may want to have your turtle seen by a vet if you've had this set up for a while as it already may have early signs of MBD. A good site for turtles that I recomend you check out (has housing and everything) is http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/ as it is very informative.

Answer 2

Depends on what kind of tube light it is. As long as it has uvb rays. But in RES's natural habitat, they cannot survive without sunlight. So you need to keep them in sunlight for as long as possible; unless your tubelight provides those rays that they need.

But check what kind of tubelight it is.. If you live in India, those regular tubelights do not contain UV rays or light.

Answer 3

Hello as long it's a UV tube light ...they need what is called Plant grow lights..bulbed or tubed ( all bulbs MUST be on Dimmer Switches is all ) seperated by screens ONLY so the rays penetrate & it's good to leave them on all the time as it is not the same as Sun UV rays ..so leaving them on is OK & best...with temps around 80 degrees warm & daily mistings unless the reptile is aquatic or semi aquatic, then you already have the water & humidity they need !!!Take Care :)

Answer 4

Look up the turtle on the internet and see if thats the proper lighting. I think thats right though. Its ok to not put in direct sunlight as long as you have the proper lighting. When you pull this up on the internet, check out and make sure you have the proper housing requirements too.

Answer 5

That is just fine. Get good turtle food too.

Answer 6

my turtles lived without that uvb thingy because in our country the temperature here is warm

Answer 7

As long as it emits both UVA and UVB rays. But many don't.

Answer 8

if you mean by sunlight you take the tank outside thats not recommended because the light going through the glass heats up the tank and can kill them. if you mean putting them by a window thats not uv light, the glass filters it out.

I got my two red-eared sliders almost by accident, and knew almost nothing about their needs and necessities. Most people get their turtles in the same way, as birthday presents or simply pick them up from some pond. Unfortunately, many owners never realize how demanding their new pets are, and thousands of them die from simple neglection. Well, I felt responsible toward my new acquisitions and soon fell in love with those green, sturdy creatures. As a result, I became active in a number of reptile forums on the web and decided to dedicate a part of my site to those interesting and demanding creatures.
Here you will find some essential informations about the care for RES (and other aquatic turtles as well) and links to many valuable sites with care-sheets and advises for keeping red-eared sliders.
Note that this site is still under construction. INTRODUCTION
HOUSING
FEEDING
HEALTH AND DISEASE
FAQ
CROATIAN VERSION
Introduction

Red-eared sliders (Trachemys scripta elegans) belong to the genus Trachemys which was first described in 1857. There are six species currently placed in this genus and they can be found from USA to Argentina and the West Indies.

Most people first encounter red-eared sliders as small, green turtles with bright-red or orange patches on the sides of their head. Many people believe that they are some sort of "dwarf" turtles and that they will stay small all their life. This is one of the major problems beacuse many RES get abbandoned when they grow too big to fit the all-too-small containers they are usually housed in. Another common mistake is the one about the life-span of RES. While many believe that their normal life-span is 1 year, it is known that they easily can reach the age of 40 years.
As they grow, RES usually get darker but don't loose the attractive marks on the head and body. Their shell can become more or less rough, or bumpy, which depends on the genotype of the turtle, its growth-rate and (less) on the living conditions of the animal.
The difference between male and female turtles becomes visible only after one year or more. The most striking characteristic of male turtles are long claws on the front paws and a long, thick tail. Female turtles tend to grow larger then males.
Housing

RES, as most turtles, need a considerable amount of space. The essential setup consists of a tank filled with water and a dry basking area. The tank should be as big as you can afford it because RES grow fast and need lots of space. The best size tanks for most sliders are 30, 55 or more gallon aquariums. The tank should be equipped with the next items:

* a heater
* a filter
* a basking light
* a basking area

You can enrich this basic setup by adding gravel to the bottom of the tank. It is a nice detail and it also provides a "playground" for the turtles. They adore digging and rumaging it. The problem with the substrate is that it retains the waste that falls on the bottom of the tank. Hovever, a good filtration system will take care of that...
Fake plants will also add to the look of the aquarium, but they must be made from robust and non-toxic materials.

The metabolism of reptiles depends on the temperature of their surrounding. As a consequence, they won't be active if the temperatures are too low. The best temperature range for RES is 24-28°C (around 75°F). In most cases, a heater is needed to achieve such a temperature. There are variuos types of heaters, and the easiest to use is the fully submersible heater because they have a built in thermostat and can be set to the best temperature.

Turtles are very messy animals. Keeping a tank without a good filter is a Sizif's job. Investing in a good filter is investing in the health of your pet and in your free time. Nonetheless, the water in the tank must be changed periodically , and the tank must be carefully cleaned. Dirty water is one of the main causes of ailments, when it comes to turtles.

A dry basking area is essential to the well-being of RES. Basking is one of their main activities, and they must get dry from time to time to prevent many ill states like fungal infections, shell rot and eye infections. The basking area can be made in a variety of ways. The goal is to obtain a dry and easy accessible "land" but retain enough swimming place as well. I solved this problem by placing a smaller aquarium on its side in the tank and placing few rocks on top of it. In this way I didn't loose any precious space. Another common way is to glue a glass "shelf" on the wall of the tank.
Above the basking area you must place a basking light. It can be a common bulb or a broad-spectrum one. A broad-spectrum light is needed for the production of vitamin D which is essential for the metabolism of bones and shell. But, the problem of hypovitaminosis can be also circumvented by adding vitamin supplements in the food of the turtle. If you use a broad-spectrum bulb don't forget that they don't produce enough heat which means that a common, 60 w bulb is still needed. Turtles will hardly enjoy basking with broad-spectrum bulbs as the only source of light. Also, it is very important to respect the natural alternation of day-night periods and don't use any light during the night.
Health and disease

Turtles, like other living beings can suffer from a number of deseases.

* Shell softening
* Eye infections
* Respiratory infections
* Fungal infections

Shell-softening (Metabolic bone disease) is one of the most usual disorders that affect turtles in captivity. It is a consequence of calcium deficiency which can happen for several reasons. Calcium is the building element of all hard tissues in the body and its deficiency leads to severe disorders of bone formation and maintainance. The absorption of calcium in the intestines is mediated by vitamin D3 and the production of D3 in the body is dependent of the UV rays which are present in the sunlight. Glass absorbs UV-rays so turtles in captivity are unable to synthesize their own vitamin D3 which is essential for the metabolism of bones and connective tissue.
Vitamin D3 deficiency is the most usual cause of shell-softening among captive turtles but it also can happen for other reasons. Low calcium diet or some plants like spinach can cause MBD too.
The symptoms of shell softening is the general softening of the shell and bones underneath. White, spongy areas can also appear on the shell (and these white patches are especially typical when hatchlings are affected). The animal will often be apatic, refuse food and be prone to infections. Turtles with shell-softening endure great pain.
This condition is extremely severe and must be cured as soon as possible. The first aid consist of administering vitamin supplements and calcium in increased doses and exposing the animal to direct sunlight. The best calcium supplement is cuttlebone. Scrape off the hard backing and put it in the water.
The housing should be adapted to meet the needs of the sick animal. The water should be warm and shallow and the basking spot must be easily accessed.
A long term answer to the problem of shell-softening can be achieved by placing a full-spectrum light above the basking area. These bulbs can be bought in most pet-shops and are fairly expensive. If you can't afford one, administer vitamin supplements regularly and this will solve the problem.

Eye-problems are not rare among reptiles. Poor quality of the water, lack of vitamines and improper care can easily lead to blindness. Eye infections can be easily treated but many owners do not pay enough attention and the result is the permanent blindness of the animal. An important thing to remember about eye problems is that they are often a sign that something else is wrong. They can be the first symptom of deseases like shell-softening or other infections which are characterized by a drop in the immunity system. Fighting eye infections is rather simple. The eyes should be treated with diluted boric acid (60/40) or sulfamethiazine. The water in the tank must be kept clean to avoid new infections.

RES are particularly susceptible to respiratory infections which can be related to the fact that they spend most of their time in the water. They are usually caused by keeping turtles in drafty spaces which are not properly heated. Also, the majority of respiratory infections are contageous and they can easily spread from one animal to another. The symptoms of such infections include runny noses, lopside swimming, wheezing, lethargy and loss of appetite. The therapy is quite simple. The turtle should be removed from the tank and placed in a clean tank with warm water. The room must be warm and without drafts. If the condition of the turtle doesn't improve, a veterinarian help is needed. He or she will prescribe antibiotic drugs that will eradicate the infection.

Fungal infections usually manifest themselves as grey or white cotton-like layers on slider's shell and skin. They can develop as a consequence of poor husbandry (dirty water, lack of basking or inadequate feeding) or/and in addition to other ailments. Fortunately, if recognized in time, fungal infections are readily curable. The usual therapy cosists of salty baths few times a day.
Feeding

RES are essentially carnivorous, but they incline toward plant food in adult age. The most important thing to remember is that turtles need a rich and various diet. Turtles in captivity are especially prone to obesity and obesity-linked diseases, due to the almost sedentary way of life and too much food. Hatchlings should be fed once a day and adult turtles once in two days.
There are various categories of food you can offer to your turtles:

* Commercial food
* Live food
* Plant food
* Meat and cat/dog-food
* Supplements

The essential diet of most turtles in captivity consists of commercial food formulated especially for turtles. There are numerous brands of sticks and pellets and many owners believe that they satisfy all the needs of their turtles. However, some turtles (especially hatchlings and wild-caught turtles) refuse to eat canned food and this can be a source of frustration for many owners. In any case, the commercial food should be only the base of a turtle's diet.

Offering live food to your turtles is the best way to implement their diet. It is usually given as treat as most turtles simply adore it. However, there is no reason live food should not be included in the everyday diet of turtles. Insects, worms and feeder fish are excellent sources of proteins, and they can be obtained without too much trouble. The most popular insects offered to turtles are certainly crickets. They can be bought in pet stores or you can simply catch them in your back yard (provided you have one, of course). Locusts will also be accepted by turtles with great eagerness as a number of other insects.
Earthworms, mealworms and other kinds of worms have a high nutritional value as well. So, don't hesitate to offer them as often as you can. Some pet shops keep the, so called, "feeder fish" which can be placed in the tank and turtles will feed on them. That's also a good idea, especially if you want to provide some exercise to your slider.

Many owners complain that their sliders avoid plant food. RES are essentially carnivorous, although they tend to become herbivorous in adult age. However, some of them readily accept plant food even as hatchlings. It is a good idea to offer your slider carrots, lettuce, cucumbers, dandelion leaves and other vegetables.

Turtles are extremely fond of meat and you can give it as a treat from time to time. It is important not to exaggerate because most types of meat are too fatty to be given regularly. Cat and dog-food can also be given to sliders, but not too often because of their high caloric value.

Vitamin and calcium supplements are an essential part of the diet of turtles in captivity. Vitamin D is especially important because turtles can't synthesize it if not exposed to direct sunlight (or full-spectrum lamp light). As a consequence they develop a condition known as shell softening which is usually deadly if not treated. The deficiency in vitamin A can lead to eye damage and permanent blindness. It is, therefore, important, to provide vitamin supplements in the diet of turtles.
Calcium can be given in the form of powder or block. The most natural, and maybe best source of calcium is cuttlebone.
FAQ

1. Your little cute turtle has grown above all your expectations.

First, what NOT to do. Most owners simply decide to release their pets in the wilderness thinking that they are making a good deed. That's really a wrong decision. Most captive turtles are unable to adapt to such a drastic change in the enviroment and die. They are also a potential risk for the native populations of turtles because they can spread diseases which can erase whole populations of turtles in wilderness.
The best thing to do would be to build an outdoor pond and place the turtles there. This is not such a big task as it seems, provided you have a back yard or something similar. There are some good sites with directions for building ponds. Check my "Links" section...
Alternatively, there are organisations which help finding new homes for turtles.
Sometimes ZOO's and/or other similar organizations will accept overgrown turtles. Give it a try....

2.You found a wild turtle.

Well, first of all, check her health condition. If you notice that she is in bad condition, hurt or ill, you should consider taking her home or to a wildlife rescue center. The best thing to do would be to find a qualified help (a vet).
If the turtle is healthy and obviously wild, leave her where you found it. You'll do a favour to her and to yourself. Wild turtles rarely if never adapt to captivity and they suffer a great deal more then any captive-bred turtle. Wild turtles (as most wild animals) spend a miserable and sad life in captivity and there is really no reason why should anyone take a turt from nature when you can easily buy or adopt one.

3.Your sliders are fighting all the time.

RES are very territorial turtles and this can cause lots of problems in captivity. Turtles of same sex (especially males) are prone to fight, and very little can be done to solve the problem. Keeping two adult males in the same, average sized, tank is not advisable and the best thing to do would be to separate them permanently. Females are less bellicose, although they might compete over basking space too.

4.My turtles are shedding. Is that normal?

Turtles, as most reptiles shed regulary, with the difference that turtles can shed their shells and their skin. There is a substantional difference between these two tipes of shedding; while shell-shedding is a normal process, skin shedding can be rarely seen in nature. It is believed that skin shedding in captivity happens for two main reasons: overfeeding and overheating. Too much food and too high temperature of the water lead to faster growth. It is thought that this can shorten the life-span of turtles. Some people confuse skin-shedding with the symptoms of fungal infections.