Why do waves tunnel or curl up as they reach the shore?

Question

No big words pls

Answer 1

because the friction is on the sea bed and none in the air
so the top moves faster

Answer 2

Waves start way out in the ocean, where they are very deep and slow. As they get closer to land, there's less depth so there's less room for the water. (It's not really that the water is moving all that far. It's more like a pressure wave being transmitted through the water, like a ripple through a Slinky. The wave compresses and decompresses the water, causing the swells.)

When the wave approaches the shore, the wave's energy has no place to go but forward or up, so the deep, slow waves get tall and fast. The taller the water gets, the more likely it is to fall over. That's the curling and the tunneling. As the shallow ocean bottom drags on the water below, the water on top flops over. The wave ends up travelling sideways onto the beach before flowing back into the ocean.

Answer 3

As the wave approaches shore, the water gets shallower. This causes the wave to slow near the bottom where is interacts with the floor. The top of the wave, though, tends to carry on at a higher speed due to its momentum (an object once in motion tends to remain in motion), so it overshoots the rest of the wave. Once the water is no longer supported by the rest of the wave below, gravity causes it to fall in front ot the wave (like a water wall). The overall out-then-down appearance looks like the familiar curl. The process is often turbulent, so bubbles get mixed in turning parts to white foam.

Answer 4

I think the top of the wave goes faster than the lower part (because of the ground) and so it curls.

Answer 5

due to the decreasing speed and pressure of water from backward, the waves naturally become higher. they face the air pressure from the forward and downward because its land breeze and thus they curl up.

Answer 6

this is the nature of waves

Answer 7

To make surfing cooler!!!