How to build a fence in the backyard?

Answer 1

1st. If you do not have a fence then you need to get with the city and find out what the maximum height is for your area. Also you will possibly need a building permit. Some cities and towns you need a permit even if you are replacing an existing fence. (Usually not the case for most cities.) Many cities have a 3’ or 4’ EASEMENT - (Land that must be left outside the fence for city use.) Any land outside as an easement the city usually takes care of if pipes break etc…. If you gas meter is INSIDE your fence line then EVEN the meter itself can be judged as “your property” if it needs work. If outside the fence line then the city takes responsibility, (in most cases.)

As for SPACING of the posts. If your cross member, (piece of wood or material that holds the pickets), is 96” then take some spray paint and mark on the ground every 96” Remember you can always shave off a little wood if the cross member is to long but not add wood if you need it to be longer. You’ll have to buy a longer piece of wood. This 96” line on the ground gives you the CENTER of your post.

Take a long piece of nylon string and run it on stakes down the length of where your posts are going to stand. If your land has a curve then where the EASEMENT needs to be. (Lets just say 4’.. measure 53” back. That way when you add the cross members and the pickets on the outside of the post you should be fine as for city code. The string will help you stay in a straight line and your fence won’t look like it is waving at you as you look down the length.

There are many types of fences but the most popular one is wood. My suggestion is to use metal posts WITH CAPS on the top OR get treated posts and paint the bottom with tar. (That bug proofs them EVEN more.) You will need to dig at least a 6” diameter hole. (I make my holes at least 8” towards the top.) If the fence is going to be 6’ tall then purchase 8’ posts. Dig the hole or rent an AUGER. Augers are gas powered and usually require 2 people to hold them. Make sure the ground is wet when digging the hold. The auger AND your arms will thank you for it. If the land is dry then add water as needed. MAKE SURE there are no CABLE LINES or other lines that lie close to the surface of the ground you are digging.

Dig the hole for a 6’ fence 30” deep. Place 4” of gravel or rock at the bottom for drainage. ESPECIALLY if this is a wood post. The rest fill with concrete, (usually 1 –2 bags per post).

Place the post in the hole after the gravel or rock is in. Take the post and lift it up and drop it down on the rock to tamp the bedding down a couple times. Fill with concrete around post. Make sure as you fill the hole with concrete that the post is level. Just take a level and check it. You have 4 sides on all posts, even round posts. North, South, East, West. The reason you check all sides is to check for minor warping if it is wood. (usually 2 sides like N, E or S, W is fine.) Fill the hole up to ground level then take a stick About ½ “ thick and about 30” long, plunge the stick into the concrete many times to make sure there are no trapped air bubbles. This also pushes the agate down towards the bottom.

I personally use cardboard and make a small 8” frame or circle to add a little more concrete. That way the concrete is above ground level. (2” or 3” is fine) Make sure the concrete is a little higher towards the post and has a downward grade towards the outside edge. (For water runoff.) Use the stick to then again push the concrete down. The cardboard should be quite thick as to hold up to the pressure exerted by the outside force of the concrete. Sometimes double it up.

Let the posts set overnight and no rain in forecast.

If metal posts then you can use metal brackets to attach the cross members to the posts. Usually 3 cross members per section, (Top 61 or 62” off ground, Center 27”, Bottom 6” off ground). Some people use 2 if they are cheap. The reason I use 3 is because the wood will be in weather conditions and will warp in the center. The third cross member will keep it straighter longer. Attach the cross members and take your level and run it the FULL length. This will show you exactly if it is level.

When adding you pickets use a level on EACH picket. That way you can see if you are straight. You can add an AIR GAP if you wish. (If you receive high winds then an air gap is good.) This will let wind travel through your fence and it may not fall or be blown over as easy. It’s not going to the a total private fence if you add the air gap.

Hope this helps.

The fences I have built have lasted 20 years. Even made out of all with wood.. It just depends on how well the wood is when you purchase it. ALL posts if wood should be treated. The cross members and pickets will have to be replaced here or there. But it’s not hard. I used painted regular wood. Buy treated if you wish.

Answer 2

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Answer 3

Before you start building something check with some professional fence contractors and get an idea what it would cost to contract it. You may find that it is more cost effective to pay someone to build a fence since they do it on a daily basis.

Answer 4

With a bit more detail you may get better answers,,,BUT,,, It largely depends on the type of fence you want. I've installed miles of various types, and each situation is different.

Chain Link and Rough cut Cedar or Cypress planks are two types. Most often lately I see dozens of homes, and entire housing developments using PVC.

In all there are some general rules/guidelines, and in the specifics of TYPE there are issues that differ.

Example: A Fence usually has uprights, spaced at a certain distance, buried in the ground (no matter the material) and then has the fencing material attached to those posts.
With chain link it's galvanized pipe. With Stockade it may be treated 4 x 4 lumber. With PVC it may be 4 x 4 hollow posts. Often posts are supported by concrete, poured into post holes after the post has been dropped in.
Chain link should be stretched and bracketed at the installed posts. Stockade sections are nailed or screwed to their respective posts. PVC might fit (Top and Bottom) into collars attached to the posts.

The hardware used would be different in any type.

The ground should be lined out; I choose a 6 inch set back from the property line. A line should be run from one corner or end to the opposing corner or end as a guide to keep the fence straight

It should also be determined the grade of the property, and adjustments made for slopes, dips, rises. That is done in various ways as well.
In any case the choice is yours regarding the top line of the fence. Do you want it level on top, or might it have to fit the contours of the property by lowering or raising sections and posts.

None are outside of the possibility for a DIY, but one might enlist help.

Steven Wolf

Answer 5

Drive a stake on each end of where the fence goes, then put a string on them and pull tight. now mark your holes for the poles dig and install the 8' sections to the posts, THEN add the concrete wet or dry and dirt using the string to keep it all straight

Answer 6

If you are planning to start on your woodworking project, this isn't something you should use, it's something that you would be insane not to. Go here https://tr.im/FXgBy
Truth is, I've been a carpenter for almost 36 years, and I haven't found anything like this for less than 10's of thousands of dollars.

Answer 7

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Answer 8

make it straight, strong, and tall