does roofing felt go under or over flashing?

Answer 1

Larry is correct. If the flashing is leaning on a slope, the topside of the flashing would be under the felt to a point of 51% of the length of the flashing on the sides. Then the felt would be under the flashing.

If the felt butts into a wall that has flashing on it and the wall is running perpindicular to the felt, the felt is typically placed under the flashing for the duration of the run.

If the wall is running parallel, the felt would go under the flashing.

If the wall is running parallel and is on the downside of the roof plane then you would need to build a cricket for the length of the wall. This can get involved. If you don't know what your doing, hire a pro.

God Bless

Answer 2

Roofing Felt

Answer 3

Under the flashing

Answer 4

Under, you want the water from the flashing to flow on the top layer of the roofing material not under it.

Answer 5

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I am not in the roofing business, AND am not challenging previous answers BUT... I grew up in a house [about 2,000 square feet] with a Spanish Mission Tile roof, and my parents had to go through the same process you're about to. Here is some info regarding their experience. The original roof tiles [3,500 of 'em at 5# each] were installed [1954] over a wood 'ship-lap' deck with a double layer of Builder's Felt ['tar paper'] and utilized galvanized steel for flashing. After about 40 years they began to have leaks [both in the open roof areas AND at some of the valleys]. Since then my dad, and I in my research, found that the watertight lifespan of this type of roof is about 40 to 50 years. Analysis during the process of the multiple repairs revealed that the cause of the leaks was that the galvanized flashings had rusted through, AND the hot SE Texas sun [on the Gulf of Mexico coast] "cooked out" the tar paper causing it to disintegrate. Thus when wind driven rain got beneath the tiles [this is normal for such roofs], it caused leaks into the attic, and rotting of the wood roof decking. By 1990 the increasing number of leaks made it clear that 'continuing' spot repairs would end up costing significantly more than a total "R&R" [remove and replace] of the roof which would be most economical, though not cheap. My dad decided that he didn't want that to happen again so soon, so he put a 'double' roof back on. They totally removed the tile, screeds, and disintegrating tar paper, and cut out and repaired all rotted wood. They then installed a DOUBLE layer of tar paper [by using a 'half overlap']. Next, they installed a full roof under-covering using what is called "Roll Roofing" material which has marble chips on the surface [actually the same thing as composition shingles, but in roll form (about 36 inches wide, I think)] over the tar paper. They then installed the flashings and screeds for the top/covering tiles, and then installed all the tiles. In the process they had about a 15 percent loss of tile due to breakage. The broken tiles were replaced with new tiles obtained from a manufacturer in Hondo, Texas [west of San Antonio]. I think the name of the company was D'hannis [sp?]. By taking a few of the old tiles to them, they were able to perfectly match size, profile, AND COLOR. Instead of using galvanized flashing, Dad used heavy guage COPPER sheeting for the valleys and chimney. Dad said that this replacement roof system SHOULD last at least a HUNDRED YEARS, and possibly much longer. He told me, to the best of my recollection, the cost was somewhere around US$20,000 in 1991.

Answer 6

Usually it goes under. As much as I hate roofing, I have been doing it for 30 years. The best thing to do when you're roofing, is to think like a rain drop.

Answer 7

if the felt is below the flashing then install it under, if its above the flashing then install it over

Answer 8

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