One way to do this is called a weave pattern. it is very time consuming but the results are outstanding.
over view.
When finished you are essentially going to have is a transitional "angle" from the corner of the hall turn to the other corner at 45 degrees.
to achieve this you need to START laying the floor in the turn of the hallway at one corner and work your way of the other corner filling the entire corner FIRST.
while doing this leave the boards going down the hall in either direction running "wild" you will extend them to their separate ends of the hall later.
if you start in one corner you are going to make a series of "Ls" that will fill the corner, are you with me?
So we are in the hall and you are going to start on the left side up against the wall and put your first board in, now extend this board past the corner the width of another board that you are going to put turning the corner and you will have your first "L" make sure to put the tongue of the first board facing the wall as the other part of the "L" will need to lock into this. darn it I wish I could direct you to a picture...
this is the basic Idea..http://www.faceliftfloors.com/photo-gallery/faceliftonthejob3.html
anyway you will repeat this till you get to the other corner of the..
Since you are starting in the corner you can give this a dry run and see how you will need to adjust it .
2007-04-24 18:20:44
·
answer #1
·
answered by unofornaio 3
·
1⤊
1⤋
Pergo Flooring Install
2016-10-18 05:15:38
·
answer #2
·
answered by ehret 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
Shermism is soooooo wrong. Once you cut the tongue or groove off a plank what is going to hold it down? If the hall is shorter than the length of a plank, just put the end tongue into the side groove at 90 degrees for the transition. No transition molding. If it's longer just forget it, lay the pieces perpendicular to the hall. Why would you put that shitty Pergo flooring down anyway? I'd lay 3/4" oak with 3 coats of varnish. Better, cheaper, and will last your lifetime. At least buy Bruce flooring, the real wood kind. None of that laminate crap.
We had a laminate floor, ripped it up because it was so fake looking. Now we have oak. Richer looking and real, and no hollow sound you get from floating floors. Even with the foam underlay.
2007-04-24 13:46:25
·
answer #3
·
answered by Mike G 3
·
4⤊
0⤋
Instead of using a molding to make the transition I would make the 90 degree turn by mitering at a 45 degree angle the end boards at that turn. It will take a little time and patience to lay it out but I think the results will be worth it.
2007-04-24 12:22:46
·
answer #4
·
answered by shermisme 3
·
0⤊
0⤋
There is a piece of molding (T-molding) that you could use. I wouldn't recommend it however, as the flooring will look a little odd with that kind of transition. I would suggest you run the flooring all in one direction which will mean short pieces in one secton of the hall and long in the other. Staggering is still necessary for the short pieces for the floor to look right.
If you are sure you want to make the transition, the t-molding should be available in the exact same pattern as the flooring you bought.
Good luck.
By the way, here is a website for you to consider:http://www.builddirect.com/Laminate-Flooring/FAQ_6951.aspx#How%20do%20I%20determine%20the%20direction%20in%20which%20to%20install%20my%20laminate%20flooring
2007-04-24 12:01:19
·
answer #5
·
answered by Pumken 4
·
2⤊
0⤋
What I did is lock the tounge of end with the groove in the side, and stager each joint. You will need to remove part of some of the tounges. Turned out really nice. I wouldn't want a transition strip in the middle of the hall.
If I had do do it again go with the hardwood. My laminate looks ok but it is way too noisy. Would never use it again.
2007-04-24 18:08:47
·
answer #6
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
Don't use pergo. The stuff, as Mike G. pointed out, is crap. Go with real hard wood and have a floor you can be proud of.
2007-04-24 22:53:59
·
answer #7
·
answered by tartu2222 6
·
0⤊
0⤋
With all due respect to you and the first 2 I thought about a 45 also,,,BUT a 45 will be far more obvious than a strip of transition at the end/corner point to the opposing wall that begins the hall. The transition strip can be the same color/shade/material as the rest of the floor. Then proceed lengthwise down the hall. In my opinion short pieces perpendicular down the hall butting the longer parrallel pieces would look odd as well.
I do suggest that anyone paying that much attention to a narrow transition, in continuity of the total floor, has far too much time to analyze. If anyone is critical, especially guests, I'd not invite them back.
Steven Wolf
2007-04-24 12:45:10
·
answer #8
·
answered by DIY Doc 7
·
0⤊
4⤋
You should visit this web site http://goo.gl/dGD8qO for more information how to do it and how much it will cost for your
2014-07-04 10:03:42
·
answer #9
·
answered by Anonymous
·
1⤊
0⤋