what do you add to soil full of beautybark to make it healthy for plants?

Answer 1

The beauty bark is mulch over soil of some unknown type I presume. Then you need to determine the type of soil you have to add the correct amendments.
The first step to amending soil is to asses its mineral
content. Dig small sample holes 3-18” deep in several areas of the yard that might be planted someday. Do not include roots, stones or other large objects like the pet trying to help.
Now look at the soil and take some in hand. Check your soil's texture by picking up a handful and squeeze gently: If it feels sticky and stays in a tight mass, your soil is likely too high in clay. If it feels harsh or gritty and won't hold any shape or crumbles it is likely too high in sand. If it feels smooth or floury and won't hold any shape, it's likely too high in silt. If it molds into your hand yet crumbles apart when squeezed, it has the perfect texture. It is loam.
If it formed a sticky ball try to squeeze it upward to form a ribbon. Measure the length of the ribbon. Now wet the soil in your palm til muddy. Rub the soil against your palm with your other fingertips. Is it smooth, gritty or both?
1” gritty ribbon is sandy loam
1” smooth ribbon is silty loam
1” both is loam
1-2” gritty ribbon is sandy clay loam
1-2” smooth ribbon is silty clay loam
1-2” both is clay loam
GT 2” gritty ribbon is sandy clay
GT 2” smooth ribbon is silty clay
GT 2” both is clay

Black color indicates high organic matter; gray indicates medium organic matter. Red, tan or blue color indicates little organic matter and high clay. Blue color indicates that there is no oxygen in the clay. Therefore, no roots will grow in blue clay.

Amounts and Specifications: To make a significant change in your garden soil, an amendment must equal at least one-third of the volume of the soil you are amending.
However, a general recommendation is: Add as much composted (rotted) organic material as you can afford. It is almost impossible to add too much.
For clay soils: the goal is to improve soil aggregation, increase porosity and permeability, and improve aeration and drainage. For example, to amend a garden to a depth of 1 foot, you need to add one-third of a foot (4 inches) of material.
*3 to 6 inches of organic material dug in 9 to 18 inches
*Perlite or pumice 5-25% of amendment
*Coarse sand 5-25% of amendment

For sandy soils: the goal is to increase the soil's ability to hold moisture and store nutrients.
*4 to 8 inches of organic material dug in 12 to 24 inches
*Vermiculite 5-25% of amendment
*Hydrosource 1-4 lb/100 square feet (expensive)

The finer grades of bark mulches are sometimes called 'soil conditioners' and make good soil amendments. All are low in nutrients. Because of their low pH, conifer barks make good amendments for azalea and rhododendron beds. The pH of hardwood barks is close to neutral (7.0).
Compost is also neutral.

For both soils:
If you send a soil sample to a local extension agent they will test it for nutrients and pH or you can buy a kit. Just use distilled water, not tap water, or you will be testing the water's contents not the soil's.
Depending on the results of your soil test you will want to add varying quantities of Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorus and trace minerals. This applies to either sand or clay soils. Although chemical methods can do this effectively the following is an organic approach.
For Nitrogen add Cottonseed meal; for Phosphorus add Rock Phosphate and for Potassium, Kelp meal (kelp also contains helpful trace minerals). To adjust your pH use dolomite lime if soil is too acid or Ferrous sulfate to raise acidity. Amendments are best applied by evenly covering the surface of the area. Till in as deeply as possible.
I use Whitney Farm Organics http://www.whitneyfarms.com/resources/

N-P-K values to mix and match into your custom fertilizer

Nitrogen:_(For producing leaf growth and greener leaves)
Compost manure 0.5
Dried blood 12-15
Cottonseed meal 7
Cocoa bean and peanut shells 1
Bone meal 4
Weeds and grass clippings 0.9

Phosphorus:_(For proper seed development; hastens maturity; increased seed yield and flower production; fruit and vitamin content; increased resistance to winter kill and diseases)
Phosphate rock 30-32
Bone meal 21
Dried blood 3
Cottonseed meal 2.5

Potassium:_(For promoting early growth; improves stem strength and cold hardiness; better color, flavor and keeping quality of fruits and vegetables; good for root system)
Potash, plant residues 0.5
Manures and compost 2.7
Granite dust 5
Greensand 5
Basalt rock; wood ashes 7
Hay 2
Leaves 0.6
Seaweed (kelp) 5

A number of other nutrients are needed by the plants in your garden in very small amounts, and are thus called micronutrients. kelp meal can be used as a micronutrient fertilizer to establish starter amounts of a wide range of different elements. Made from dried seaweed, which has drawn its substance from the diverse ingredients of the world’s oceans, kelp meal is rich in minor nutrients. Just a partial list of the elements contained in dry seaweed includes, beyond nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium: boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, calcium, iodine, a range of sulfates, and—perhaps most important of all—up to 25 percent alginic acid, which stimulates biological activity in the soil and improves soil structure.
Alfalfa- While at first glance it would appear that nitrogen is the big benefit from alfalfa (Meal: 5-1-2; Pellets: 14-4-8), with a good dose of iron and trace elements, the real benefit comes from a fatty acid alcohol called triacontanol, which occurs, naturally in the waxy surface of the plant’s leaves. Triacontanol is a root stimulant which, when used in small quantities, can increase yields in garden plots by 30 to 60%. It can be applied to roses straight out of the bag or box, or applied in an "alfalfa tea."
Alfalfa tea:
Alfalfa pellets or alfalfa meal 4 cups per 5 gallons of water
Add Epsom salts half a cup to 5 gallons
Add water
Let stand for one week until it bubbles with fermentation. Your nose will tell you that it's ready.

Using it: Apply alfalfa tea once per month in the spring and summer, especially after the first flush of flowers, to encourage repeat blooming. On shrubs I found 1⁄2 to 1 cup per bush is adequate.

Answer 2

Fish heads and bones, oyster shells or horse dung.
Mix 1/4 horse dung into a demijohn with water,let it about 10 days more if wintertime. You can use it for months.
If leaves become yellow, stop for a while and reconsider the dose.
Plant one fish head inside the soil, close to the main root every 6 months and the treatment will be complete.

Answer 3

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