I guess my gold fish have developed "ICH"....wat do i do..?....any home remedy.....???

Answer 1

These are the three steps of Goldfish Ich treatment:

1. Treat with salt at a .3% solution OR with medications containing Malachite Green, Formalin or Copper (examples: Rid-Ich (US), Protozin (UK)).

2. Increase tank temperature to high 70's. Do not go over 80 as some answers suggest, its just like hatching a plot to kill your fishes. You are treating them, not killing them and if using a Malachite Green medication keep tank completely dark and covered over. Continue treatment until fish have been completely ich-free for at least 3 days, ideally 6 days.

3. Vacuum the substrate thoroughly after treatment has finished to remove any remaining parasites in tank.

Answer 2

Unfortunately Mantra is incorrect. 70 degrees will not kill ich, if raising the tank temperatures, they must be higher than 90 to be effective. 90 is not for goldfish. No home remedies most take time like salt. In order for salt to work in droping parasites from the fish (and will not kill it in the tank) your temperature needs to be above 90. Your goldfish will not survive. Go to the store and get medicines.

Answer 3

All you need to do is go to your local pet store, even wal-mart sells this stuff. It comes in a bottle and cures most fish diseases, simply add it to your water and make sure to change it as much as you can a few days after they show no signs of ich. If you can see any blood in there fins you may have a more serious disese, but ich isn't too big of a deal and is generally curable. Also, look in to adding a bit of sea salt (yes I know there fresh water fish!!) It helps them relieve stress and become healthier.

Answer 4

Do not rely on a home remedy, there really aren't any that truley work. Use Medicines from the store for the ich your fish have. Waiting and hoping home cures will cost you more than time that your fish may not have.

I was told once to crank up the head and add salt, I lost my fish waiting. Use proper medicines.

Answer 5

ch (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)

Symptoms: Salt-like specks on the body/fins. Excessive slime. Problems breathing (ich invades the gills), clamped fins, loss of appetite.

Ich, Ick, white spot disease, whatever the name, this is the most common malady experienced in the home aquarium. Luckily, this disease is also easily cured if caught in time! Ich is actually a protozoa called Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. There are three phases to the life cycle of this protozoa. Normally, to the amateur aquarist, the life cycle is of no importance. However, since Ich is susceptible to treatment at only one stage of the life cycle, an awareness of the life cycle is important.

Adult phase - it is embedded in the skin or gills of the fish, causing irritation (with the fish showing signs of irritation) and the appearance of small white nodules. As the parasite grows it feeds on red blood cells and skin cells. After a few days it bores itself out of the fish and falls to the bottom of the aquarium.
Cyst phase - after falling to the bottom, the adult parasite forms into a cyst with rapid cell divisions occurring.
Free swimming phase - after the cyst phase, about 1000 free swimming young swim upwards looking for a host. If a host is not found within 2 to 3 days, the parasite dies. Once a host is found the whole cycle begins anew.
These three phases take about 4 weeks at 70º F but only 5 days at 80º F. For this reason it is recommended that the aquarium water be raised to about 80º for the duration of the treatment. If the fish can stand it, raise the temperature even higher up to 85º.
The free swimming phase is the best time to treat with chemicals. Raising the aquarium temperature to 80º F will greatly shorten the time for the free swimming phase to occur. The drug of choice is quinine hydrochloride at 30 mg per liter (1 in 30,000). Quinine sulphate can be used if the hydrochloride is not available. The water may cloud but this will disappear. By reducing the time (with raised temperature) of the phases, you should be able to attack the free swimming phase effectively.
Some aquarists like to use malachite green, but it tends to stain the plastic and silicone in the aquarium. Most commercial remedies contain malachite green and/or copper, which are both effective.

Answer 6

I AM SORRY I DONT KNOW THE MEANING THE OF ICH

Answer 7

Magic Man is dead on. But to tell you the truth, it is very quick and easy to clear Ick up with any medication containing Malachite Green as it's active ingredient. This stuff turns the water green for a couple of days and it stains everything so be careful. But , goldfish tolerate it well, and it works like a charm very quickly.

Answer 8

When you are putting a qustion of guess, please guess the answer because everybody may not be believing in guess.

Answer 9

Forget home remedies. Raising the temps unless they are over 90 and adding salt (which will cause bloating) Use an approved medication that is for the type of ich you have. Goldfish being coldwater cannot deal with the higher temperatures nor the added salt.

The only way to relieve your goldfish is thru meds. And quickly because it tends to spread fast.

Any questions on meds you should use, feel free to email me.

Answer 10

See me answer to your previous question on this subject. Goldfish will have no problem at all with higher temperatures (which alone can kill ich) as some people report keeping them in ponds at over 100F and even as high as 120F. Ich dies and / or fails to reproduce properly at 88F or higher. Heat alone will solve the problem although salt, which in small amounts is totally harmless to goldfish will speed the process.

MM