my beta has fuzzy white stuff on him and he not swimming much any more what is Wong with him i think he dieing

Question

my fish is dieing and i dont know what is worng he stay at the bottom of the tank and never swimms like he use too. and he has this white fuzzy stuf on him and it is going to the other fish someone plz help before all my fish die. ASAP thank you

Answer 1

The white stuff on your fish is almost certainly a fungus. You can treat with medications from the pet shop, but you can also do a salt dip. Use a large bowl with 1/2 gallon of water the same temperature as your bettas tank, dechlorinate it of course and add 1 tablespoon of salt. Put your betta in this salt water for 2-3 minutes and then back to his bowl. You can do this once a day to help treat the fungus. Since it's spreading to the other fish in the tank you cold treat them the same way, but you still need to treat the entire tank as well with medicines from the fish shop.

MM

Answer 2

-Sigh-... for the last time, 'fuzzy white stuff' is NOT ich. Ich looks like your fish was rolled in salt particles. The lady at the petstore was right. Your fish have a fungus. I've used the Jungle "Fungus Clear" tablets myself. Seperate your fish and put them into smaller 'hospital tanks', as I call them. I keep a few of these around to make it easier to administer medication and monitor sick fish, as well as to keep them 'quarantined' from the others temporarily. The hard part with the tablets is dividing the tablets to be the right amount for your fish tank. A whole tablet treats 10 gallons... so I had to divide it into approximately a 1/8th slice to treat one of my little 1 gallon hospital tank. I found that scoring the top with a small sharp knife makes the tablet much easier to snap. Good luck.

Answer 3

he has a sickness called fungul infection you can cure it by getting some medicine online just go to google and type in beta fish diseases then look for beta diseases fungul infection you can by the treatment online if you want ick is not the case unless he has white spots then still type this in beta fish diseases and u can buy it online but if its white fuzzy stuff then it is fungul infection

Answer 4

White fuzzy stuff sounds like a fungus infection. It can be treated. The fish may not die. My first choice for treatment would be methylene blue or any medication containing methylene blue.
http://www.novalek.com/kordon/methylene_blue/index.htm

Answer 5

Its fungus. Get him out of the tank RIGHT NOW and keep him separately. I know there are some medicines available so you can ask your pet store.

Answer 6

He has a fungus on him(forget what it is called) You need to get to the pet store ASAP to get meds. for him. If not treated it could kill your other fish! Good luck!

Answer 7

That happened to my pink betta fish and he died. I think they have stuff at the pet store for it though.

Answer 8

he has fungess take him to the pet store or vet to get him checked out

Answer 9

your fish has the "ick" virus, very very common, visit the petstore you bought it from or any petstore and buy the treatment for your betta, it should be the direct application medicine remove the infected fish into a seperate tank so other fish do not catch "ick"! Hope this helps!

good luck to you and your fishie! ~Bubbles~

Answer 10

Effects of Ick -- Ick are parasites. They feed on your fish's tissues, weakening the fish. The white specks you see are cysts formed by the fish's flesh where the parasites have burrowed into them. When the ich detach to go lay eggs, they leave open wounds in your fish which can easily become infected. When the eggs hatch the new ich attach themselves to your fish and the cycle repeats over and over. Minor cases of ich can easily heal and leave your fish none the worse for wear, but continued infestation will always eventually lead to death, and since your fish and the ich are both trapped in the confined space of your tank, this is always the case, unless you get rid of the ich.

Cloudy eyes are a sign of bacterial infection caused by a weakened immune system and/or poor water quality. There are medications for bacterial infection, but the best way to treat it is to keep the water conditions PERFECT and give your fish a chance to fight it off himself. If you choose to medcate, you should isolate that fish in a separate tank so you don't inflict the medication on all the other fish as well.

Ich medications are also very hard on your fish and not always effective. I treated my new tank for ich that came in with the new platies a month ago with absolutely no chemicals; every single fish survived (and stayed feisty and playful throughout) and no signs of ich have returned since then. I used this heat/darkness treatment:

1) Turn the heater in your tank up a couple of degrees Farenheit or one degree Celsius each hour until the temperature reaches 86F. This is the minimum for the heat treatment.

2) Continue to turn it up at this slow rate and watch your fish for signs of erratic swimming, spasms, etc. Your target temperature is 91F, which will weaken and kill most of the ich parasites. If your fish react badly, turn it back down to the last temperature at which they behaved normally, as long as it's hotter than 86F. Mine didn't have any problem whatsoever with this temperature, but platies like warm water. You could do some research on your fish to see if they're sensitive to heat like that.

3) When the tank is warm enough, cover it with something to keep the light out. I used a blanket. Others use tarps or cardboard, etc. Leave this on at all times except when you're changing the water. You can feed the fish right after the water changes, then put the cover back over the tank.

4) Do a 25% water change DAILY until the end of the treatment. This will thin out the freeswimming young adult stage parasites in the water and keep water quality really high so that the fish don't contract secondary infections. Warm your new water to match the temperature in the tank each time you add it to the tank so you don't shock your fish with temperature changes. I used a Python and just put my hand in it until it felt the same as the tank before I switched the nozzle to Fill.

5) Vacuum your gravel thoroughly that first day to thin out the eggs that have been laid down there. You should probably be vacuuming your gravel weekly anyway -- your oscar is too large a fish for a 30G tank by itself and since you have other fish in there as well I have to assume you're probably overstocked. Vacuuming the gravel will help keep ammonia and nitrate levels down for healthier fish in the first place.

6) After the 3rd full day (counting from when the temperature first reached at least 86F), turn the tank heater back down to 86F, again going in 1 or 2 degrees per hour increments. This temperature is the minimum for the full treatment because ich will only breed at temperatures lower than 86F.

7) After the 10th full day (counting from when the temperature first reached at least 86F), take the cover off and turn the tank heater back down to its usual temperature, again going in 1 or 2 degrees per hour increments.

And you're done!! Some of the fish may be too far gone by now so keep an eye out. Remove dead fish as quickly as possible so that their decay doesn't lower your water quality. I saw an immediate improvement in my fish after a single day, but it is vital that you continue the treatment for the full 10 days because you have to be sure that every parasite in the tank has completed its full life cycle without the chance to lay new eggs. If you leave any alive when you turn the temperature back down, they will eventually reinfest your tank Good Luck! *Guppylover*