Need help saltwater tank?

Question

Here is my questions. Im posting the link to keep this post clean. And because there is not enough room to put it all down at one time here.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117745

Answer 1

Have to say - first time I've answered a link to a question in another forum!

You already have my answers to several of your questions in other questions you've asked here, so I won't repeat those.

Most of what you'll get (at least initally) on the dead coral will be coralline algae - this will be a surface "crust" of pink, rose, and/or purple with maybe some green. In time, you may also get small feather worms, corals, or macroalgae. It will all depend on what's on the live rock when you get it and what can live under your lighting.

About the lighting - a regular hood isn't that intense that you could keep corals or anemones, but will be fine for non-photosynthetic organisms. Coralline algae will probably grow, but not as quickly as under compact fluorescent or metal halide lighting. The color temperature of the lighting should be chosen for photosynthesis and color enhancement for the fish you're keeping. I'd suggest looking for either a 10,000K or a 50/50 fluorescent tube. Another thing you'll need to consider is the output of your lighting system. The tube that came with your hood will have a rating of T- (some number). When you buy a new tube, make sure you match this number or you'll end up replacing more than just the tube. Tubes generally come in T values of 5, 8, 10, or 12. The smaller the number, the better the output.

I'd allow 3" on one of the clowns - females will get larger than males.

I wouldn't run the venturis on the powerheads once you've got live rock in the tank - if you have bubbles collect under the rock, that's the same as exposing the rock to air. You'll get enough oxygen to the bottom by running the powerheads in reverse flow.

Since cost seems to be a consideration here, you could put off some of the purchases for a while. You could use the gift card to get the trickle filter supplies, but a sump isn't that necessary for your set up as you aren't grossly overstocking the tank. Granted the additional water volume is nice, but you don't have to have it yet. Same with a skimmer. Just monitor the water quality and do water changes as indicated. I currently run a 10 gallon reef (it started as a quarantine tank, but I never got the organisms moved to either of my other tanks. It has a Powersweep powerhead and an aquaclear filter and it shares a 30" compact fluorescent light with a snake tank next to it). It's got several corals, crabs, snails, macroalgae, shrimp, and a baby seastar that came as a hitch-hicker on the live rock I bought and all are doing well without skimmer and added volume.

Seriously, you don't need all the equipment you mention from day one. Take your time and build up the equipment you want over time and size it for the larger tank - and make that tank and stand (if needed) your last purchase. Except, maybe, some additional fish or inverts.

I'm not fully clear on the problem with using the previous skimmer - maybe you could post the model or a photo of what you've used in the past. For a future purchase, I'd look for something that's outside the tank, though - gives more space to your fish.

Answer 2

I Just set up a 30tall for my wife's seahorses.
It looks like you have just about everything that you need but need to set it up properly to ease your maintenance chores in the future.
The 20 gal tank is kind of small for saltwater (the more water the better) but you can do it. (More water changes)

First- get rid of the undergravel filter, It will become a Nitrate factory in the future.
2-place 2" to 3" of your Gravel /sand (argonite) in the tank.eventualy this will turn live and turn Nitrate into nitrogen which will evap out of the tank.
3-Fill tank with saltwater but not to the top.(you are adding live rock)
4-Add about 15 to 20lbs CURED live rock, This IS your biological filtration and is already CYCLED.(Cured)
5-Add your 2 powerheads and Don't turn them down too much, You want a lot of water flow over and through the rocks.
6-Get a good hang on back protien skimmer, It will save you with such a small tank.
7-After about 1 week, start adding a cleaner crew, About 10 assorted snails, 15 small blue leg hermit crabs, maybe a small skunk (common cleaner) shrimp.
THIS IS your Mechanical filtration.
8-After about 2 weeks add your 2 clowns that you want(nice hardy fish for that size tank.
9-with this setup you will not need ANY of your mechanical filters.
10-With the light that you have you can add some Mushrooms or polyps but thats about it for corals.

I would try to sell all of the rest of your stuff on an internet classified ad in your neibourhood and pick up a good protien skimmer and upgrade your lighting for Coraline algae growth and fish colours.

You can get a Pistol shrimp and a shrimp gobie (lots of different ones to choose from) that will live together in a cave.
I would not Add anymore FISH than what you stated, Thats enough for a 20gal. but with the rock, cleaner crew,shrimp, and those fish it will be very ALIVE and interesting to watch.

All of my tanks are now set up this way and I love it.
A lot less work, less water changes because there is 0 Nitrate all the time, No chemicals to buy except tropic marin bio-cal supliment for the 75 gal reef tank.

Good luck and enjoy.

Answer 3

I actual have the two sparkling water and saltwater. you elect stay rock to help sparkling the tank because of the fact saltwater fish choose a plenty cleanser atmosphere. in case you place sand in with stay rock it is going to alter into stay sand finally so no would desire to spend the extra funds for stay sand I definitely do no longer understand in case you ought to use gravel. like maximum fish tanks as quickly as its cycled it is not likely that plenty artwork. in case you have the money i might say decide for it. this is plenty extra interesting gazing a saltwater tank in action then freshwater. in spite of the undeniable fact which you will learn which you would be able to no longer in good shape many fish in a 20 gallon tank with saltwater. 3 on the main. And non of the super appropriate fish like angel fish or butterflies will artwork in that small of a tank.

Answer 4

Sounds like your on your way.

If I had your set up I would scrap the skilter. Use one of the old 10gallon aquariums as a sump. Plate glass precut from home depot and siliconed in will work fine in one of those for baffles. Add some sand and a little live rock rubble in it and your done. Look up DIY sumps for design ideas as it would be difficult to describe to you how to make one. Most everything you need to make the sump is available from home depot. Don't waste your money on bio balls and the like. A good sump with a deep sand bed a few live rock rubble pieces and some macro algae thrown in are all you need. One of your old hang on back filters could be converted to an overflow for the sump. It won't be as efficent as a store bought one but would work until you could afford one or get your tank drilled. Doing this would involve some plastic cutting and drilling though.

For sound dampening on your return pump in the sump put a layer of cheap mousepads under the sump itself. This helps deaden any noises from it. Your still going to get water flow noises though. The magnum line of pumps are my favorite on longevity, noise, and performance but they aren't the cheapest but also not the most expensive.

When you get the live rock cycle your tank with it. It won't matter if it's cured or not as you will be curing it during the cycle. You will get some die off in this process whether its cured or not.

Take out that ammonia media and carbon. There is no reason for it to be in there during the cycle at all. It will only extend your cycle time if anything. Once your cycle is done you shouldn't need any type of ammonia absorbtion at all.

Do get a heater as a 20 gallon tank with low lighting will be prone to low temps.

Don't add anything until your cycle is done. You will see a peak in ammonia then nitrites then nitrates. Once ammonia and nitrites drop back to zero or near to it do a decent sized water change(I do 50% at this point) and then it is safe to add your cleanup crew. Watch your test results for where it is in the cycle and don't rely on just time. Some cycles take longer other shorter just depends. A few hermit crabs and snails will work fine. Get a cleaner shrimp and stay away from pistol shrimp. They are called pistol shrimp for a reason.

Once your cleanup crew is in you should be fine to add in your clowns within a week. Clowns are hardy and can usually handle new tank conditions.

I do recommend protein skimmers as they are worth every penny. They are pricy though and can be lived without.

With this setup you would end up with about 25 gallons of water volume. A good biological filter and nitrate removal in the sump. Mechanical filtering from the crabs and shrimp. Algea eating from the snails. You really don't need as much as most think for saltwater.