97 Cavalier still won't start!?

Question

Its got spark on all cylinders, gas coming out of each spark plug hole. Timing chain checked,crank positioning sensor replaced,cam sensor replaced. Only seems to be firing on number one. And seems to have compression. And does anyone know if it has a roll over switch or inertia switch and if so where is it located at? Any help would be deeply appreciated.

What I mean by gas coming out of spark plug holes, is when I remove all the spark plugs and turn it over to see if I'm getting fuel to all cylinders.

I believe I discovered the problem. I checked the compression and I had 150 number 1 and Between 60-90 lbs. in the rest. So I think it maybe the head gasket. I didn't know much about this car when I got it. All I knew was it wouldn't start. Thanks for all your help.

Answer 1

If it's equipped with a shut down relay,it would not be sparking at all.When you say gas is coming out of the spark plug holes,you need to clarify what you mean by that.A wild guess would be the cam timing is off,perhaps it jumped a tooth.

Answer 2

All you need for ignition for any car is spark, fuel supply and compression. You need a good computer for the newer cars as well. Cavaliers as well as all GM vehicles are not equipped with a so called roll over switch. To check for a no start condition you simply have to check for spark, fuel pressure, compression, and the computer data that sees rpm and relatively healthy data of the other parameters. If you say you are getting fuel spray, that would mean the fuel pump is working and building up enough pressure to start the motor, so I will not discuss this area. You also say the motor has compression so I will not discuss any motor faults here. You are saying that you only have spark to one of the cylinders. That is a problem. What you do not say is what type of a motor you have here, the Quad4 or the 2.2L variety. These two motors use different ignition systems. Both use a waste spark deal though. Obviously they both fire running mates simultaneously. If you have spark to number one and no others, recheck carefully to be sure. You have to check for maximum spark output one at a time at the plug end. If you are sure there is no spark to every hole, you will have to go back and check for spark for each cylinder at the coil assembly. If you now have spark at each, you have open or corroded wires and will need a complete set or a set of connectors. If you only have spark on one, you have an ignition coil problem and/or a ignition module problem. To check the coils, all you can do is do an ohmmeter check to see if the coil is open. This cannot fully check a coil however. The module has to be checked to see if it is firing the coil by removing the coil and checking the power to and through to the coil for power and for it's ability to ground the coil. This will determine if the module is good. If it does both of these things, supplies power and can ground it out, your problem is bad coil(s). If all this is good, be sure the wiring from the crank sensor to the module is good, or the connection between the sensor and module is good. There are lots of checks to be done and sometimes it takes several checks to find which part has been pooched. Replacing things arbitrarily is expensive and a shot in the dark. Spark plug wires were a big problem in the 2.2L motors and a no start was a lot of the time the crank sensor and/or ignition module. The 2.4L no start problems were generally the coils or corroded connectors. Good luck.

Answer 3

I noticed that noone mentioned that even with fuel and enough pressure,timing and spark-that you need agood clean dry set of spark plugs..... if the plugs are saturated with gas it will not start

Answer 4

It may seem to have good compression,but the only way to know is to ck it with compresson guage.also you could have too much fuel delivery to the engine.ck the fire again with spark tester,

Answer 5

The "igniter" needs to be replaced.