2007-04-08 02:08:15 · 7 answers · asked by mnrk 1 in Science & Mathematics ➔ Earth Sciences & Geology
As an oceanographer, I see a lot of confusion in other answers. Almost all waves in large bodies of water are wind generated. They start in the "fetch" where the wind strikes the surface of the water. You can often see this in a lake or pond as an area of ripples moving across the surface. These are capillary waves. Wave size is controlled by the duration of the wind, the size of the fetch, and the speed of the wind. Capillary waves can grow up to great sizes and form "sea or swell". Since all waveforms travel, they will eventually reach a shoreline if they don't die out first.
Even on a clear day at the beach, the waves you see there originated far away where the weather was stormy or windy.
Other waves can be generated by tectonic forces, such as tsunamis. Underwater landslides have also been known to manifest themselves on the surfaces of water bodies as waves. Boat wakes also can make waves in smaller areas.
Tides are also a kind of wave...known as seich waves. They are generated by the gravitational pull of the moon and/or sun. They have extremely long wavelengths and periods when compared to their smaller cousins previously described.
2007-04-08 04:26:19 · answer #1 · answered by Bruce D 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
waves can start at great distances, from winds or storms and they approach the beach from the direction towards the original disturbance. however as the sea floor gets shallow, it not only makes the wave rise up, it changes the speed by slowing down. this effect is like light going through a prism and deflects the appearant direction towards shore. so no matter which direction the wave comes from originally, it is bent to approach the shore straight on.
2007-04-08 05:13:59 · answer #2 · answered by lare 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Waves are also created by the gravitational pull of the Moon. Currents and shallowing water depths as you get closer to the shore cause the waves to hit the beach.
2007-04-08 04:03:22 · answer #3 · answered by mad6176 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
One reason is that winds are caused due to pressure and temperature gradients and these are most pronounced where land and water meet.
Another is the fact that waves are formed when the approaching mass of water hits shallow land. The body of water builds up into waves.
2007-04-08 02:15:14 · answer #4 · answered by ag_iitkgp 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
^^guy above: your getting mixed up with tides
Waves come to the coast because only waves created at deeper water level can move far enough to me noticed as waves.
2007-04-08 02:13:24 · answer #5 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
i don't think the waves are created by the wind. how about gravitational pull from the moon and sun as the wind is also created by that
2007-04-08 02:11:50 · answer #6 · answered by Saint Lucipher 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
No way..........there is not any longer something on CNN. is this the great one which they have been predicting for years it fairly is think to take out lots of the east coast? the place are you seeing./listening to approximately this? Your link is to a record from 7 years in the past. the place are you seeing the record of a mudslide happening now? properly, we could pray that that's no longer authentic......(sigh)
2016-12-15 19:20:05 · answer #7 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋