Additional info on 8.4ph and 240 alkalinity in several well established tanks?

Question

Earler I had asked for help regarding this high ph and high alkalinity in my tropical tanks. First I would like to say thanks to you who have been so kind to want to help.
Now for a bit more info.
We were purchasing spring water for water changes and distilled for "topping off'. Then due to job losses we could no longer purchase water... and so enter our local fish expert.
We had our tap water analyzed.. results
7.5ph
3dgh
14dkh
The spring water tested at..
6.5ph
3dgh
2dkh
That is when our expert advised adding the acid and alkaline buffers. And now we are running with a high 8.4 ph and the highly alkaline water.
Any additional help would be appreciated. I should have included all this in the beginning. Thanks

Answer 1

I agree with MM here. This seems to be the only real change you've made. Obviously the tap water is a higher pH than your spring water, but this doesn't explain the jump to 8.4.

A pH of 7.5 would already have some buffering capacity, so I don't know why you would have been advised to add an alkaline buffer to your water. Especially when you were told to add both an acid and an alkaline buffer - these would counteract each other. It sounds as though your expert was trying to make a sale here. I would start phasing it out - don't add any more during the next water changes and see what your pH does. There's no reason most tropical fish wouldn't do well in 7.5, and it will save you the money on future additives.

Answer 2

The only thing that could be causing the pH to run so high given that above information is the buffers you are using. Looking at your tap water I see no reason at all to be bothering your pH and hardness. Most any fish will do just fine in those water parameters. If by chance you are trying to maintain Discus, Chocolate Gourami, certain killifish or things like that or possibly attempting to breed some of the touchier tetras, then yes you would want to adjust your water conditions. However, for general aquarium keeping and the typical aquarium fishes, your tap water is fine with no adjustment at all. I would suggest you begin a regular routine of water changes to bring the tank to tap water conditions. Start slowly with a 10% change, wait a few days and make another, then 15% for a few changes a few days apart then a 25% for a few changes each a few days apart. This should slowly flush the buffer from the tank and return the water to a balance at or very near the tap water conditions. Not only will this save you time, headaches and money, but it will be much more stable and healthy for the fish. It's a win, win situation.

MM

Answer 3

have you ever checked the pH of your water source? while you're no longer doing something in yet differently on your tanks than you have continually completed, it obtainable that the source of the exchange is on your water furnish. I agree that the chemical buffers are not mandatory. have you ever made any variations that are undemanding to all your tanks these days (further flora, replaced substrates)? flora can strengthen pH while they are actively modern technique photosynthesis (it drops back at night as they respire). some cichlid and marine substrates comprise calcium carbonate to strengthen the ph - if there is something you think, attempt by ability of including some drops of vinegar on the outdoors (outdoors your tank, of direction!) - if it fizzes, it includes carbonate and can be got rid of)