i have a 94 dodge 3500 and cannot get the front brake rotor off any solutiuons?'?

Answer 1

I use heat on bolts, but that might ruin your bearings. I'd say hose it down with a penetrating oil like PB blaster like every 20 minutes and give it a little persuasion with rubber mallet between hosings

Answer 2

You did not mention if it was a 2WD or 4WD. But you need to remove the grease cap at the end of the spindle. This will expose the inners of the rotor. You then need to take a punch or blunt piece of metal with a small hammer and tap back the retainer that keeps the nut from turning. There usually are 2 that lie flat up against the nut. After you bend these back, you can take a blunt chisel and hammer and tap the nut loose. Remember righty tighty, and lefty loosey. Once the nut is off you can remove the washer and the outer bearing. After this is done you have an inner bearing and inner grease seal on the back of the rotor. There are two ways to try to remove these. Slide the rotor back onto the spindle and put the nut back on loosely, then put both hands on the outer edges of the rotor and pull with force and speed towards you, letting the rotor slide down, so that the grease seal catches the nut and hopefully pops out the back. Then you can have it all out of the inside of the rotor. If this doesn't work you will need to take the rotor off and place is face down and try to pry the seal out somehow, if you mess it up, you need to replace the seal. I'd suggest replacing it anyways, with new bearings. To put it back together, clean all the old grease off the spindle and use new "bearing" grease. Grease the spindle, and re-pack the bearings. Keep in mind the new bearings will come with new races, you need to replace these also, but you need a race tool to remove them, or you can take them to a shop and they can do it for you, pretty cheap. Add new bearing grease to the inside of the rotor. Put the rear bearing in and the grease seal, and reverse the order you took the rotor off.

If this is a 4WD, you will need to remove the locking housing for the hubs, that will expose the inner bearing, locking clamp, and nut. From here just follow the same procedure. Make sure that the 4WD hub is in free and not locked, will make it easier for you.

Also, pickup some break cleaner and have an old clean rag available. So you can clean the protecting film that the manufacturer puts on the new rotors, if you are buying new ones. If you are turning the old ones, make sure they spec them to see if they are still in specs, or you will pre-maturely wear out the new set of pads you put on. Also, use the lube they give you that come with the new pads. It helps in keeping the new pads from making brake noise when you apply the brakes. Hope this helps. Good Luck!

Oh another thing, sometimes the rotor is hard coming off and sticks to the spindle. If you have a big rubber mallet available that is the best thing to use to wack on the rotor to loosen it to remove it. If you have a bearing that is frozen, you need to apply heat to it. The bearings are already bad, so don't have to worry about damaging them. You need to replace them anyways.

Answer 3

you have 2 themes right here. One is 3 months in the past, you had the front brakes executed on your 15 3 hundred and sixty 5 days previous motor vehicle. the fee you paid replaced into no longer out of line. It seems such as you had a caliper bypass undesirable, which led to the brakes to positioned on out on one area, and broken the rotor! the save replaced the two calipers, and the undesirable rotor. Calipers ought to get replaced in pairs, yet whilst the different rotor replaced into no longer undesirable (or must be resurfaced) they did the remarkable element in no longer changing it! They checked your rear brakes, and at that factor, there have been no issues. They maximum possibly wiped sparkling and altered the rear brakes at that factor, and did no longer charge you for it! you are going to be able to have been waiting to are turning out to be the front brake activity executed for somewhat much less, however the fee isn't out of line in any respect! you have pushed the motor vehicle for 3 months. the day previous to this you felt a issue with the brakes. In 3 months, something might have broken, or a leak stepped forward! instead of having the brakes checked, you tried to easily upload fluid. Have the motor vehicle towed to the save. that's unclear that your issue now's bearing directly to artwork executed 3 months in the past. On an older motor vehicle, issues are going to interrupt! If the brakes don't experience good, that's the time to get the motor vehicle checked, till now using it!

Answer 4

I'm assuming it's a 2WD.
You have removed the nut, washer & outer bearing & then tried to remove. A common cause weight of the rotor slight drops down on the spindle. In doing so the inner bearing binds a little on the spindle. Try lifting the rotor until level. Tap the rotor back until bearing is up against the seal ring. Pull the rotor straight back.

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Answer 5

look for the two" front holes" in the rotor and screw a bolt in it ,they will pop out and fall in Your hands.

warning,screw it by hand first( for thread feeling) then use a wrench