whyy did my male betta do this to the female??????

Question

ok, i have a male &female betta fish the man at the pet store said wen the male is ready to mate he will make a bubble suface like a nest then i should put them together as soon as there done mating i should seperate them. Well the maLE did make the nest i lifted the seperation wall just a weee bit for the female to slip under she was just siting rite by the opening then...BAM!! the male bolted at her!! tried to kill her it was LOUD now im really sared to put them together =( wat size should the breeding tank be?wat temp. should the water be for the eggs and wen there eggs there with the male but wen they hatch who do i put them with? And females are sopposed to be good withother calm fish so i put 6 lake guppies on her side she at all of them in 30 min. were they too small or was there not enough room? are betta egs clear?

DOES ANYONE HAVE HELPFUL WEBSITES RELATED TO MY PROBLEM?

THANX!

Answer 1

That can happen sometimes, he probably wouldn't hurt her at that point, but will chase a lot. if he did start tearing her fins before they breed, then you would need to seperte them for a day or two more.

She ate the guppies because they were too small and she thought of them as food. I wouldn't really bring in fish from a lake, they can bring diseases with them.

Here's some more info on breeding bettas that you will probably find helpful, it should answer all your questions. This method has worked for me for years and yers, so if you have an questions after reading it drop me a line.

Breeding tank: A 10 gallon makes a good breeding tank for bettas. Place in on a dark surface and set it up with no gravel or decorations. Use a small sponge filter and a heater. maintain the heat at 78-82, the temperature is not really that critical. Using a hood is a good idea to hold in heat and moisture.

Conditioning: Condition the male in the breeding tank. Condition the female in a seperate tank and be sure they cannot see each other. Feed well on frozen or live foods alternating with flakes or pellets for at least a week. The female should be plump with eggs and the male should be flaring and showing his best color, maybe even building a bubble nest.

Spawning: Drop the water level in the breeding tank to about 5" deep. Place the female in a bowl or other container next to the breeding tank so that the male can see her. As soon as there is a good bubble nest in the breeding tank add the female. Check for eggs in the bubble nest every few hours. You know they are finished when the female is hiding from the male and he no longer leaves the nest to chase her down. He will also not be trying to attract her to the nest. At this time remove the female from the breeding tank. If they fail to breed within a few hours go back and repeat the conditioning steps for a week.

Eggs and fry: The eggs will hatch in 2 days. At first the male will collect the babies and return them to the bubble nest, this is normal. Once you see that the babes are able to swim in a normal fashion, remove the male. Now is the time to start feeding the babies. Feed them newly hatched brine shrimp, micro worms or vinegar eels. Feed several times a day for the first week to 10 days. At that time you can start addig some powdered flake food to their diet and begin increasing the water level in the tank.

Care: The babies need very clean water. Do a 50% or more water change every day and be sure to remove any uneaten food or dead babies that you see. Keeping the water clean and changed very often is one of the major keys to sucess. Be sure you cull the brood. Culling is to remove unwanted fish. Remove any deformed fish right away and destroy them.

Rearing and selection: Eventually you will need to split the batch as they will over crowd the 10 gallon. Removing the females to another tank is the best way. The males can stay together without a problem. Continue to feed quality foods of increasing size working your way up to frozen or adult brine shrimp and continue to do large daily water changes. Once they begin to develop color, you should cull based on color. Keep the color you like and remove the rest. Even if you started with two reds you will get a few that are not red or are not evenly colored. If they are near adult size a shop should buy them from you or at least give you some store credit. Be ruthless, keep only the very best to breed with next time around.

The males can stay together basically for their entire lives as long as you never seperate them. Once seperated even for a day they will begin to fight so keep that in mind.

Best of luck and stick with it, you'll have baby betta before you know it!

MM

Answer 2

Bettas have a fairly short lifespan, and are most successful as breeders when they under a year old (bettas in pet shops are usually at least six months old). They breed in bubblenests and do not require a large tank or special equipment.
Most breeders find that a bare bottomed tank of roughly ten gallons works well, although smaller tanks are also suitable.Ideally the fish should be conditioned prior to breeding, by feeding them a diet of live foods. The water should be at a pH of about 7.0, and temperature around 80 or slightly above.

The male will blow an elaborate bubble nest when he is ready to spawn. The female should be provided with a hiding place, as males may become aggressive during courtship. Even with a hiding place, it is common for the female to lose a few scales or have their fins frayed during spawning.

When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.

The male will continue to tend the bubblenest, spitting eggs that fall out back into the nest. In one to two days the eggs will hatch, and the fry will be visible hanging in the bubblenest with their tails pointing downward. They will feed off their yolk sack for another thirty six hours, during which time the male will continue to pick up any fry that fall out of the nest. The male should be removed within two days after the fry hatch, as they may eat the young once they are free swimming. The fry should be fed a couple of feedings daily of baby brine shrimp or very fine baby food. Tetra makes a dry mixture specifically for egglaying fish, and many pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp. Take care not to overfeed, as the uneaten food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to the fry.


http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/anabantids2/p/betta.htm

Answer 3

bettas are very aggresive expecially when breeding, and the male wil grab the female, and sometimes litterally tear her up, they are well what you call abusive. i had my bredding pair in a ten gallon tank with only like 3 inches of water, i put seram wrap over the top to keep it humid, i put half of a foam cup in there that way the male could make the nest in that, im not shure about the rest, becasue i was scared the first couple of times i tried it and just decided i couldnt handle her getting all beat up and stuff. he nearly ripped all her fins off. i just wouldnt really put any thing with them either female or male, because they are so aggresive. i wish i could help you with the rest. good luck.

Answer 4

The male takes care of the baby Bettas so you would leave them with him when he hatches. Then after a while you put the babies in the separate tank or the male will eat them.


A$H!

Answer 5

omg girl your fish are animals lol good luck on the beast babies

Answer 6

dying