My check engine light keeps coming on, I took it to a mechanic and they said it was the EGR valve- I replaced?

Question

the EGR Valve twice now, but the light keeps coming on. What can I do? I need to get emissions this month- and it still keeps coming on...

Answer 1

did you get the codes reset after the repair you need to

is the tubes that goes to the egr pluged the one on the intake side pluges up a lot

disconecting the battery on 96 and newer cars doesnt work you need a scan tool to reset light

Answer 2

Hi Lisa,
Hopefully I can help but it's a little hard when I keep getting drowned out by MORONS like the first three answerers.

The first answerer is an idiot. You just said you have emissions coming up and resetting the light just before taking emissions will NOT let you pass because either:
1. If your car is OBD-II (1996 or newer) then doing this gives an "emissions test not ready". Actually, there is a way to overcome this but I cannot go into it.
or
2. If your car is pre-1996 they will drive the vehicle through a pattern that will just cause the light to come on again anyway.
So ignore idiot#1's advice.

Idiot#2 can't even make a sentence. I read that garbage 3 times and still don't know what he's trying to say.

And idiot#3 is not only wrong but he has NO IDEA what octane is or why you need it. In fact that moron is probably wasting money on high octane fuel when his car doesn't even need it.

Ironhand (who I run into a lot on these questions) is correct in that more information from you would have been helpful in getting you a more direct answer but I think I can further narrow it down to just two possibilities for you even without the information we need. Note these possibilities assume you changed the egr valve with a new, nondefective unit.

1. If your car has a "electrically" activated EGR valve, most likely you have a problem with the wiring to the valve. You need to know how to test for voltage/continuity to the valve.

2. If your car has a Vacuum actuated EGR valve then it's one of two things- either the solenoid that starts the vacuum is not working (bad solenoid or wiring) or there is a vacuum problem from the intake manifold to this solenoid or the solenoid to the EGR valve. Applying voltage to the solenoid is a good start to test the solenoid. And using a vacuum pump is the best way to test the vacuum lines to and from the solenoid.

As ironhand said, DIAGNOSIS is the key- and incidentally you really need to get a new mechanic. Any reasonably competent mechanic (i.e. NOT the first three people to answer your question) would easily be able to diagnose the exact source of the problem in just a few minutes.
Thank you in advance for your best answer vote and I now unfortunately must return you to a sea of complete idiots who feel compelled to answer questions they know nothing about...

Answer 3

Lisa—
You don't tell us what kind and year car you have.
Gotta have more information to help you.
What were the codes the mechanic retrieved?
Why did he say to replace the EGR valve?
This is another reason I keep harping of the DIAGNOSTICS first, THEN repair.
E-mail me with information and I will try to help.

Answer 4

Disconnect negative battery cable turn lights on for two minutes this will drain voltage from computer. Turn lights off hook up battery, turn key to on (do not start) let set three minutes this will let computer reset You should now be able to drive without light.

Answer 5

stay away from the c r a p gas(ARCO, discount, no-name gas stations).

87 octane is for lawn mowers, and Hyndai Excels.

Go Chevron/Shell/Mobil 89 octane or higher...