2x10 ledger, 2x8 joists, 5/4 decking boards, 4x4 posts, rails, pickets and concrete. including screws, lag bolts and 1 inch post stand-offs you are looking at about $7.50 sq. ft. posts not more than 8 ft, personally, i put them every 6 ft.
2007-03-30 13:23:15
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answer #2
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answered by gary w 4
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Certainly with regard to Stores you're going to get personal opinions, much like religion or politics. Shop more than one.
First of all I have to ask if you can upsize or downsize? Lumber, especially for the major part of the support construction is sold in 'linear" feet" and at 30 x 9 you might have to accept more "waste" than is neccesary."?
Again, I suggest the first step is to take your measurements or revised measurements to either an HD or Lowes and ask their Contractor sales for a list of their suggestions as to amount of lumber and price of the package. With no offense, Cheap/bargain often relates to you get what you pay for.
Without knowing the structure of your house a single step can be 8 inches to the deck top from ground level. I'll assume DIRT exists in the location now. AND the next step counts, in the grade away from the house.
I'd dig holes for concrete footers, at 8 ft. distances apart, 24 inches deep, plus a couple inches to back fill dirt. Then in the construction I'd likely use PIER BLOCKS, probably with brackets embedded, adujstable for leveling. They accept 4x4's and all your lumber should be "treated"
I'd probably add a double ledger to the house side/sides, to aid in support. They might be attached with whatever is appropriate to the construction of the house...IE: Block or Frame.
I'd figure on no less than 2x8's for the beams, set at 24 inches on center, like ceiling/roof rafters,,, and support them/brace them at 90 degree angles with the same lumber size. You can purchase galvanized "Hangers" to aid in the process. All Screws should also be galvanized. NO NAILS! other than in those hangers perhaps for ease of installation
Once the framework is up, level, properly BOLTED to the 4x4's then decide on deck material. I'd choose the same width/thickness as the support beams. But the CUSTOMER is always RIGHT, even when they aren't!
You can certainly do the math using my suggestions of 24 inch centers and height. Assume that a couple of 4x4x8 ft treated piece might yield all the verticals you need. UNLESS you go with an alternative I offer below.
For Railing. I suggest the uprights/supports for it should be placed at the facing of the outermost Floor beam, at an appropriate height, and can be fabricated from treated 2x4's with that size verticle posts or 2x2's or whatever you choose, probably centered at 4 ft, then add a top rail. yOU MIGHT Decide to run them close to ground level for closing in the space, with lattice for example. The rail sections should be fabricated before installing them to the deck base. My suggestion if I could illustrate it, allows that the floor of the decking can be flush the entire length of the deck.
Certainly you might measure the vertical 4x4 supports posts to the eventual height of the railing /CAP, INSIDE the perimeter and then perhaps make cuts for the deck floor around them.
The railing should also be anchored in some way beyond just to the support beams,,,IE: the house, or with some diagonals. Beyond that you might consider 2 x 4's at 8 inches cut at 45 degrees on the bottoms, attached to the 4x4' s to add support and space for screws along the rail. In effect that would allow that the rail sits on approximately 7 inches of support lumber just under it.
I can't know if I helped but I'm willing to offer more in a connect.
Steven Wolf
2007-03-29 14:11:49
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answer #3
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answered by DIY Doc 7
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go to lowes ,com and creat your own deck and see right there what i will cost you do it yourself or have it done for you
2007-03-29 11:34:28
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answer #4
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answered by gands4ever 5
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