I have recently started using a table saw for the first time and most of the time when I try cutting some material e.g MDF the piece of material that has been cut goes flying back in the direction that the material was fed into the blade. Does anyone know why this is happening and if there is a way of stopping this from occuring?
2007-03-27 03:09:57 · 8 answers · asked by Antony G 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
Anthony, all of the above
Also be sure to use the blade guard whenever possible. It has a one way feed that does not allow stock to travel back toward you and helps keep your wood flat to the table.
2007-03-27 05:07:52 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
It's called kickback.
A kickback occurs when the leading corner of a piece being cut rotates away from the rip fence. The piece then gets caught up between the back of the blade and the fence. As the back of the blade -- the part that cuts upward--begins to gnaw into the freshly cut edge of the piece, the piece quickly rotates, getting caught diagonally between the fence and the blade. The corner of the piece closest to the operator and against the rip fence is the pivot point around which a radius cut is made. The piece then acts like a pole-vaulter. Rotating further and moving faster now, the piece rides up and over the blade and is hurtled into the air to the left side of the blade. If you're lucky, it will fly over your left shoulder. If you're not lucky, a board with a few horsepower of force behind it will hit you. This is also why it is such a bad idea to stand to the left of the operator and watch him work.
Afterward, you'll usually spot a crescent-shaped cut on the bottom of the piece. This crescent cut is the result of the piece rotating as it crosses over the top of the blade. It's as if you drew a circle with a compass, putting the center point at the corner closest to the operator and against the fence.
Certain types of cuts are more prone to kickback than others. A square piece being trimmed is the most likely to cause trouble, because any drift away from the fence will cause the piece to bind. Any piece cut against the rip fence that is either square or rectangular (with a width approaching at least half or more of its length) is a very hazardous cut. Typically troublesome pieces are drawer bottoms and small parts.
But if the piece is kept solidly against the rip fence and pushed all the way through the cut and beyond the blade, it's unlikely that a kickback will occur. Keep your eyes on the rip fence just past the blade to make sure the piece is firmly in contact with the fence throughout the cut. The critical time is often just after the front of the blade has cut all the way through the piece. The waste lies on the table rattling against the blade, distracting you from the very real task of keeping the piece firmly against the rip fence until it is well past the blade.
2007-03-27 11:43:22 · answer #2 · answered by JAMES M 2 · 2⤊ 0⤋
As previously mentioned you may have a dull blade or be feeding the end of the cut material in too fast or the fence crooked. You should also have the blade just barely higher than the thickness of the material you are cutting. Using a push/holddown stick is also recommended. Is the blade the proper type for your material? MDF is a dense material so you may want to use a larger amount of teeth blade. Look at the blade and see if there are burnt marks on it. If so, clean it or replace the blade.
2007-03-27 10:29:29 · answer #3 · answered by sensible_man 7 · 2⤊ 0⤋
It is called kickback and if you don't watch out, something will fly out that hits you like an arrow.
The problem is that the fence is not square with the blade. In order to fix that problem, first make sure that your blade is square int he saw. Take a large carpenter's square, place it on the edge of the table and find out if your blade is square to the table. Then, using one tip of the many cutters that you have on the saw, always one that points in the direction where your fence will be, and put it first in the front, measuring from the fence to the very outer most point of the cutting point, and then go to the rear and measure. Don't saw until they are equal.
It is a good idea not to in cut, that is trim off a small section next to the blade - it is better to out cut.
Those flying pieces will kill you. Good thing you did not buy a radial arm saw, those things are horrible at slinging pieces out.
2007-03-29 17:16:57 · answer #4 · answered by Polyhistor 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
James M gave the best explanation I have seen in a long time.
There are a few thinkg you can do to prevent kickback. First, check both your blade and rip fence for squareness to the table. A carpenter's framing square is the tool to use. Put you miter gauge (set to 0°) in the slot and set the framing square on it. Sild the sqare up to the blade, and verify that there is equal spacing between the front and back of the blade to the framing square leg.
As mentioned, leaving the blade guard on the saw will allow the anti-kckback pawls to engage the stock and keep it from being fired back at you.
2007-03-27 15:41:58 · answer #5 · answered by Hank 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
It's called kickback and most often happens when the material is fed in something other than a straight line. Check to make sure your fence is square to the blade and make sure you feed your material to the blade resting firmly against the fence.
2007-03-27 10:13:53 · answer #6 · answered by Mark G 4 · 3⤊ 0⤋
This will happen more often if the blade "just" breaks the surface of the cut material. It is the way the blade rotates - toward you. If you raise the blade to its maximum then the teeth will cut in a downward motion and less of a forward motion.
2007-03-27 13:24:35 · answer #7 · answered by ButwhatdoIno? 6 · 0⤊ 4⤋
Either your blade is on backwards or dull one or the other. Also they have tools use to hold the stock down and guide them threw the sawing stage I would advise using so you dont loose fingers or hurt yourself.
2007-03-27 10:13:55 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 1⤋