i brought a1992 300e gas engine,anything i should look out for?IT HAS 168,000 MILES ON IT?

Answer 1

1. Change tranny oil to Mobil 1 Syn ATF(applicable for ALL Dexron applications), with NEW filter

2. Change power steering fluid(with filter) to the above ATF(also MBZ approved for power steering units).

3. Chevron DELO 400 15W-40 oil(about $20 for 8 quarts, BUY in gallon jugs)...well worth it, and superior over any Castrol, etc

4. Stay AWAY from cheap gas places, and do NOT try to get by on 87/89 octane...you WILL roach the engine. Shell/Chevron are your best bets for gas.

5. Large bottle of TECHRON...at Chevron..follow directions, GREAT stuff for cleaning up the INSIDE of your engine.

6. NGK Iridium plugs(I think #6341)...$5.99/plug, but you won't have to change them, and better MPG.

7. Use Prestone Low-TOX coolant, like NOW. Also REDLINE makes a additive for coolants which reduces head temperatures.

8. Go with K&N airfilter(not for power, but the price of a "regular" paper filter...in about 30-40K, the K&N will pay for itself.

9. Lastly...STAY away from the Jiffy Lubes, etc. They ALL have Made in China crap filters, single weight lousy oil, either overfill/underfill, strip bolts...don't do it, find someone who can do the work(not rocket science).

Good Luck!

Answer 2

A few contradictions to previous advice:

1) Don't put a K&N filter on a car you want to keep. Filtration and flow are inversely related. The only way you get more flow is less efficient filtration. As for doing it as a cost savings idea, think about washing out an oil soaked filter peppered with dust and debris...very unpleasant. A regular air filter once a year is fine.

2) I would go with the Delo, or a similar Diesel-specific motor oil. Even though you don't have a Diesel. The reason is that current non-Diesel oils have reduced zinc content (zinc, or ZDDP is used to prevent wear). They aren't the best choice for an older flat tappet engine. Diesel oils are more similar to traditional motor oil formulations.

3) Doesn't matter if you switch between synthetic to dino and back again. There are no incompatibilites among these lubricants.

What to look out for:

1) Check the tensioner on your serpentine belt. Do this by releasing the tension, and looking for excessive play in the bearing. If it's worn, replace the tensioner. If the bearing goes, the vibration can shake apart your timing chain cover.

2) Keep an eye on your ball joints and tie rod ends. I've found that this generation of Mercedes tends to wear them faster than some cars.

3) Have your transmission fluid changed, who knows when it was last done. If the transmission starts to slip, or shifts hard, have it looked at immediately, as this is one expensive item if you break it. I personally don't like synthetics in the Mercedes transmissions, regular transmission fluid is fine.

4) Have your differential fluid drained and replaced. Do NOT use synthetics in the diff.

5) Inspect the rubber couplings on the driveshaft. If there are surface cracks, replace them. If one of these couplings goes, the driveshaft will end up in your lap, or what's left of your lap.

6) I'll echo and emphasize the comment about Jiffy Lubes. Your car uses a cartridge oil filter, they won't even be able to locate it. Find a good independent Mercedes shop or learn how to change your own oil.

Answer 3

These are good cars when running well but -. Lots to go wrong. Check that it has a duplex timing chain by looking through the oil filler cap with a flashlight/ torch. Single row chains are prone to snap at 55,000 miles, duplex are better. 300 engines crack heads, head gasket failure is common on high milers, oil leaks from round the head gasket are the early sign.

Just to make it worse there are multiple problems with cooling systems, check the cooling fan clutch, fan belt tensioner and pulleys, water pump failure is common. Radiator may be worn out. Watch Temperature! Do not allow to exceed 100C (212F).

Over some years in the 1990s M-B were supplied with engine wiring looms which had poor insulation. This mainly affected the engine wiring harness, and engine heat rapidly degraded the insulation. I think your '92 is just too early for that, so you could have struck lucky there.

Timing chain tensioners work on oil pressure so make sure the engine has plenty of clean oil.

Answer 4

All answers are good, except HappyNow's number 3. The oil he recommended is for a diesel engine. For a gas engine, you need to find out if the previous owner(s) have been using a synthetic oil. If they have, you need to use the same oil they have. If not, follow the recommendations in the Owner's Manual for the viscosity for the temperature in your area.

Answer 5

Continue to use the same brand of oil as the previous owner, You bought yourself a good car you'll get another 100k on it easily.

Answer 6

check plugs for fouls to know if any cylinder burns oil or check color. each color has a meaning of course if plug wires are bad then it voids plugs

Answer 7

no, you're in good shape. i have 250K on my 87 300E.