Here's what I found.... Sounds like it could be found at a hardware store or an autobody shop.
PRODUCT INFORMATION DATA SHEETS
BARCOAT
Quick Drying Isolator/Adhesion Promoter
Fast drying - can be top-coated in one hour
Ready for use
Non-sanding formula
Prevents bleeding and lifting of existing paint film that is sensitive to solvent attack
Helps prevent body filler bleed through
One litre will cover most automobiles
Can be used for spot repair
Use as an adhesion promoter on most plastics
DESCRIPTION: Barcoat is a quick drying yellow oxide isolator. It is designed to prevent lifting and bleeding of existing paint film sensitive to solvent attack when over-coated with cellulose or paint containing strong solvents.
SURFACE PREPARATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE: Thoroughly clean and de-wax the old paint surface with a spirit wipe or suitable solvent. Wet sand with P400 paper, re-clean and dry thoroughly. For metal use P180 paper.
APPLICATION: Stir well and filter before use. Only one light, even coat is required. Use a suction feed gun, fluid tip 1.4mm - 1.8mm, check first that the air line is free of moisture. Do not use silicon or flow additives or allow the paint film to become wet after use.
BUILD AND PRESSURE: One light even coat of Barcoat will give a build of approximately 15-25 microns. A pressure of 3.5-4.0 BAR is required at the gun.
DRYING TIME: Approximately 1 hour at normal shop temperatures. Drying time is dependant on film thickness, humidity and temperature.
OVER-PAINTING: Barcoat should be over coated with primer/surfacer. Barcoat should not be sanded before application of further coats of paint.
2007-03-23 06:17:22
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answer #1
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answered by Christina M 2
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What you're looking for is a 2-part "epoxy resin."
There are various brands of it (perhaps "Barcoat" is one), and they can be found in craft and hobby stores and in a few other places, but the cheapest by volume is Famowood's Glaze Coat at Home Depot, etc., though for just a clock face you wouldn't necesssarily need that much.
(Epoxy resins are often used on bar tops, but they're used in other ways too.)
What you do NOT want is a 2-part *polyester* resin (sometimes also called a "casting resin"). Those are not intended to be used outside a mold or without a layer of something else on top (fiberglass, etc.), because the surface that's touching the air while the resin cures can end up sticky or imperfect (the bottom side of the resin touching the mold would be fine though). Those are also sold at hobby and craft stores, as well as automotive stores, etc. Be careful when asking for them though because often the salespeople won't know the difference between epoxy and polyester resins... should say somewhere on the bottles/cans though.
If you want more info on buying and using epoxy resins, one place to check would be this page at my site:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/other_materials.htm
...click on the category called **Hard Epoxy Resins**...then check out especially its subcategories about Brands, Mixing, Application, and also Other Uses > bartops)
By the way, you don't really need to use a resin if you don't want... you can get the same effect by just using at least 3 layers of a polyurethane finish for wood (like Varathane, water-based/interior, Glossy)... the epoxy resin would be a bit thicker with just one application, but would still look and act about the same. If you really wanted it thicker, you could just keep adding layers. (Using clear acrylic sealers are less fussy and involved than using resins, and totally safe.)
HTH, and good luck!
Diane B.
2007-03-23 15:30:17
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answer #2
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answered by Diane B. 7
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Acrylic or Laquer
2007-03-23 13:10:44
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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i don't know the brand name, but it's a two part, catalized acrylic product that is poured in place. you can find it in any well stocked paint dept.
2007-03-23 13:18:13
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answer #4
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answered by sic-n-tired 3
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It's like an acrylic. Go to hardware store. They have it.
2007-03-23 13:08:35
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answer #5
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answered by venturemomma 2
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schlack or lacquer.
2007-03-23 14:47:14
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answer #6
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answered by AthenaGenesis 4
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