Car will not stay running?

Question

I have an 87 Buick Park Avenue. Lately, I've been having a problem with the fuel (I think). It was completely out of gas when I bought it less than 2 months ago, I put some in (filled, have not put in more since, still have 3/4 tank) and it was fine. Then, over time, it started to shake and act like it would die. This became worse and it would die, but start right back up and drive ok for awhile. Then, it worsened till it would die, start, and immediately die again. We changed to fuel filter, but think there was crud in the tank still. Now, after replacing the filter, I let it run for about 15 minutes in idle, and have driven it less than 12 miles. Tonight, it started fine, then after a bit began to sputter and act like it would die, eventually did and restarted. A few minutes later, it sputtered and died, and when I started it, it would immediately die again. Do I need to change the filter again (sucked more crud from the tank), or what else could it be?

Thank you all for the answers, now I have somewhere to start looking. To answer gearnofear's and bobweb's questions: The place I got it said that yes, it had been sitting for a little while before I got it. Since I filled it up, it hasn't gone many miles at all, I've only used 1/4 tank of gas: I'd guess maybe 75 miles at most. And if I can get this figured out, then yes I do plan to keep it.

A detail I forgot to add is that one of the times it sputtered but didn't die last night, the Check Engine light came on, stayed on for about 30 seconds to a minute, then went back off.

Today, on his way to work, my husband drove out to it and called me to say it started right up for him and sat there idling for a little while with no problems, so later today I'm going to try at least getting it home.

Answer 1

Sounds like you have a fuel metering issue. Once the car warms up and goes in to the closed loop of things that’s when the problem starts. I would have the fuel pump pressure checked, as well as a fuel system flush. Do you know if the car sat for a while before you picked it up? It's possible that the system may have got a little water in the tank and it's causing problems. How many miles have you gone since you last filled it up? If it's been more in 250 to 300 miles you may be out of gas again. If that car can manage attempt to get it to a dealer or your repair shop and have them check it out.

Answer 2

I would first make sure that all your basic "tune-up" maintenance items are known good. If you know the car has been well maintained with regular fluid and filter changes and you plan to keep the car you may want to replace some ignition components like spark plugs and plug wires if they are 10 years old for example. While changing the plug wires, remove the HEI coil pack cover and see if there's any obvious signs of spark arcing which could have damaged your ignition module. GM Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAF) had a failure history through those years, and I believe you can disconnect the MAF connector to see if it runs better. That will turn your check engine light on, but if the engine runs better, you'll want to try cleaning your MAF sensor using the CRC Industries cleaner (link below). Also use the clip on spark tester below to check for good spark. Of course you should measure the fuel pump pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel injection rail to make sure you've go 40 psi or so. It's possible to do a fuel pump volume test to make sure the pump is delivering enough fuel per unit time. Have your error codes read out even if your check engine light hasn't come on. Since you have an OBD-I vintage diagnostics system, you can short the A and B pins together on the diagnostic connector to get the error codes to flash out on your check engine dash light. Look up the OBD-I codes on the internet.
http://www.crcindustries.com/files/MAF%20Sell%20Sheet%20Web.pdf

Answer 3

If you know for sure that your gas tank, is dirty, You will need to Flush the gas tank clean, and the gas line, Replace the fuel filters, one on the engine, and the one in the gas tank, and if you have fuel injection, or a Carburetor, those will have to be Clean also, check the fuel pump to make sure that is is working properly, Clean, and Clean some more, until there is nothing left in the fuel supply anywhere, Because if crud is your problem, than this should fix your fuel problem.

Answer 4

There is an item called a fuel sock in the tank on the tube going to the fuel pump. If there is that much crud in the tank, it could be a problem. It could be many other things. The best thing is to take it to a reputable and qualified garage and have it checked over. This is better than just starting to throw parts at it.

Answer 5

i agree, sounds like it has a dirty fuel system. cars that are run out of or low on fuel tend to pick up alot of dirt/debris on fuel pump strainer/filter. furthermore it is possible the fuel may have sludged up if it sat for 2 months with the same fuel as you described. try changing fuel filter and running a fuel injector cleaner thru fuel system. check engine light means it is intermittent code (malfunction comes and goes or is not a hard code) if it was light would remain on.

Answer 6

Don't rule out the possibility of the ignition module replaced one today. Truck would sputter and die after you started to drive it replaced the module and it ran fine.

Answer 7

If that's a Chrysler product, it is probable the ballast resistor. on the beginning up place, complete present day is going to the ignition circuit to start the engine. on the run place, the circuit runs in the process the ballast resistor to decrease the present point & boost ignition element existence/toughness. Older Buick & Olds fashions used the comparable set-up, as does my 'eighty two Plymouth Voyager (PB-250) van. hit upon it in the engine compartment ,oftentimes on the firewall ( white ceramic approx. 3/4" extensive & 2 a million/2" long), linked to the wiring harness by using woman spade connectors. To temp-restoration, make a quick jumper twine, with ideally 10 ga. stranded twine, using male spade connectors & by using-bypass the resistor. which could get your buddy to the climate save to purchase a alternative, they do no longer look to be high priced, yet, the climate save could could order one. An absolute emergency restoration : use a quick piece (a million/2") of coat hanger to connect the two woman spades & wrap with electric tape. had to try this as quickly as myself while my 'eighty two stop on the Ind. toll highway eighty mi. from homestead on a solar. evening. do no longer bypass away the temp-fixes in place for too long, you're taking of undertaking of "frying" extra high priced digital ignition comeponents.desire this helped, good good fortune.

Answer 8

maybe a fuel pump