Brake pedal Goes all the way to the floor.?

Question

Read all of this before u just yell something out..

The brake pedal Goes all the way down until it hits just a little resistance at the very very end.. perhaps a half inch of braking power..

I have replaced
1) the calipers
2) the rubber hoses
3) the master cylinder
4) the power booster

I have no idea what to do next

and also if u could answer.. would 1 brake line unbled lead to this problem? someone has told me even 1 unbled brake line could have the entire brake system compromised like this.
I have replaced every part i can think of..

5) replaced brake pads

No abs.. its a 89 camaro.. and the pedals not soft.. its just.. GONE.. and pumping also helps none.. if that throws more clues out there

Answer 1

Unless the whole system has been bled properly, you might have air pockets throughout the system.
Right rear first.
Left rear second.
Right front third.
Left front last.
And this is on level ground or stands.
Since you did not give the year, make and model of the car:
Has the rear drums been adjusted properly before bleeding?

Answer 2

This Site Might Help You.

RE:
Brake pedal Goes all the way to the floor.?
Read all of this before u just yell something out..

The brake pedal Goes all the way down until it hits just a little resistance at the very very end.. perhaps a half inch of braking power..

I have replaced
1) the calipers
2) the rubber hoses
3) the master cylinder
4) the power...

Answer 3

It shouldn't be too hard to find out, crawl underneath your car and look for an oil stain around the wheels or any of the plumbing. Yes, if you haven't bled the master cylinder and break lines this is is what you get. You bleed the brakes by filling up your reservoir, put the lid on then have someone pump the brake until it gets hard then hold it while you open the bleed screw on each wheel. you start from the wheel which is the furthest way from the reservoir and work in succession to the one that is the closest. Only when you close the bleed valve, can the person in the drivers seat let go of the brake pedal, then they pump it up again, and you repeat this as many times as it takes. the first wheel will not come up all that hard because the other lines have lots of air in them, just bleed it until you don't see or hear any air coming out, Of course this is assuming that you have bled your master cylinder properly when you installed it. Hope this helps.

Answer 4

Rebleed the brake system, only start with the master cylinder. After you get all the air out of the M/C, go to the wheel farthest from the M/C and bleed it. Then work your way wheel-by wheel up to the nearest to the M/C. After you bleed each wheel, top up the M/C, and lastly, make a hard brake application and hold it for at least 30 Sec. If your pedal stays up and hard, it should be OK. If the pedal slowly goes down, go back over the entire system and find where the leak is .

Answer 5

Make sure both of the brake lines are bled. By not doing this, you're causing the brake lines to lose their hydraulic pressure. That's why there isn't any resistance on the pedal.

Answer 6

Yes, one break line could cause this problem. Manual Transmassions can have this same exact problem as well. It kinda goes like this: Breaks and such run off of pressure, by depressing your break pedal, it makes you stop. Think of it like a giant squirtgun. If you "squeeze the trigger in an empty gun, what comes out? Nothing, theres no "pressure". So, if you fill it, then you "pump" those breaks, you build up pressure. If you have no leaks in the line, the pressure builds up, making a tight and very sensitive "lead" to your breaks. as you depress your pedal, theres no where for the fluid to fo, so it engages the break, therefore making you stop. The longer you pump your breaks, the better your stopping power will be. I hope my analogy of a squirt gun helps you out, and doesnt confuse you. If your "squirt gun" had two triggers, both leading to seperate containers, and only one was full, well, you would get nothing out of the one that was empty. In the same respect, this is why its so important to make sure you bleed your breaks properly. If this doesnt work out for you, you may have a bad Master Cylinder. Othere than that, I would be at a loss to help. Thanks, and good luck to you.

Answer 7

Hole in the steel lines, master cylinder not bled before bolting on, cheap master cylinder right out of the box (it happens), needs brakes bled (all 4). 1 unbled line or a small amount of air in lines will not work the brakes. If you bleed more than 1 line without filling the mas. cyl., you can run out of brake fluid and push more air into lines.

Answer 8

Brake cylinders need bleeding (fluid). Either brakes fluid running out or air in the brake hose. Someone has to sit inside and the other adjust brake hose.

Answer 9

when you put on the new master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it. You need to put the master cyl in a vise and fill will fluid. Most of them send 2 fittings and hoses with it and you put them on and run the end of the hoses back into the top of the master cyl. This gets all of the air out of it. It is hard to get the air out of it if ou just put it on the vehicle and then try to bleed the brakes.

Answer 10

I know I had a similar problem on my 84 Suburban, If you system is similar, check your power steering fluid, and maybe look for a leak in your power steering system. I know, you probably already have done this, but its all that comes to mind, I'll edit if I can think of anything else.

But, yes 1 unbleed line can lead to the whole system not working quite right.

I know someone gave me a "thumbs down" but please dont overlook this as a possibility because someone is too "misinformed" to know what a PS assisted brake syatem is. I'm not sure weather Cehvy used them in Camaros, but its worth a check.