Tile flooring.?

Question

What are the benefits of installing tile in kitchen and bathroom or would linoleum be better? Also, how hard is it to install tile floors. I've had friends who've had no experience and they did it and did a good job. I am just a bit skeptical of doing it myself but just wondered if there are videos out there that shows you how to do it.

Answer 1

There are several videos on installing ceramic tile. If you go to any home center (Home Depot, Lowe's or Menard's) you can get on and even how to books. You can also check out the library and rent a video and most times the how-to are free. As far as installing tile, I have worked in home improvement for 13+ years and it really is easy. It all starts with the sub floor preparation. Usually home owners have to install 1/4" tile backer over a bed of mortar using a 1/4" notched trowel. The advantage of putting tile in your kitchen/bathroom is the durability. The tile is not going to tear, stain, discolor or fade. Plus it should add value to your home having in your home. I hope this helps you out.

Answer 2

Tile is better in my opinion than linoleum. I don't know about videos, but there are instruction manuals where you get your tile. Everything you need is pretty much in the same area as the tile. The only thing you need to remember when laying tile is; make sure you leave no space( not even pencil size) between each tile, do not get the tile wet for (they say 72 hrs.) at least 4-5 days (this is my advice). You want to make sure that it dries and seals thoroughly. With linoleum you are taking the risk of it seperating and warping (which happens very easily). The instructions on linoleum says do not mop or walk on it for 3-5 days; when truthfuly you want to stay away from it for 7-10 days. If living in the home this is impossible!!

Answer 3

lINOLEUM CAN BE A PAIN IN THE YOU KNOW WHAT.
RESALE VALUE I WOULD HAVE TO SAY CERAMIC FLOOR TILE WITHOUT A DOUBT.
FIRST LOOK AT YOU FLOOR ..DOES IT LOOK LEVEL FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND LENGTH WISE WITH NO DIPS IN THE FLOOR ANYWHERE. iF YOU ANSWERD YES THEN CHANCES ARE YOU WONT NEED A FLOOR LEVELING CRETE MIX.
yOU WILL HAVE TO PULL UP WHATEVER IS DOWN THERE NOW..GET IT TO THE SUB FLOOR OR THE CONCRETE..DEPENDING WHAT YOUR HOUSE IS BUILT ON..IN EITHER CASE YOU CAN USE THE TILE.
yOU NEED TO LAY MESH DOWN OVER THE FLOOR. THIS IS THE BACKING THAT WILL HOLD AND SECURE THE TILE TO THE FLOOR.
ALWAYS START WITH A FULL PIECE OF TILE IN THE DOORWAY OF YOUR BATHROOM. WORK YOUR WAY TO THE BACK..THATS WHERE YOU WANT ALL THE TILE THAT GETS CUT TO END. THAT WAY YOU HAVE ALL FULL PIECES WHERE IT COUNTS.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE A WET SAW..IT'S FINE. LAY ALL OF YOUR FULL PIECES THE FIRST DAY.DONT WALK ON THE FLOOR FOR A DAY . THEN THE NEXT DAY IS GOING TO BE ALL THE CUT TILES U NEED TO INSTALL.
YOU CAN GET A CHEAP TILE CUTTER FOR UNDER 15 DOLLARS AT HOME DEPOT FOR ALL OF YOUR STRIGHT CUTS. IF YOU HAVE A TILE THAT NEEDS TO BE NOTCHED OR A ' L ' CUT..MARK ..MARK THE TILE WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE BUT..WRITE ON THE BACK OF THE TILE WITH EITHER NUMBER OR LETTERS SO U REMEMBER WHERE IT GOES..TRANSFER THE SAME NUMBER OR LETTER TO THE FLOOR SO U DONT FORGET. TAKE ALL THE PIECES TO BE CUT TO HOME DEPOT..THEY HAVE A WET SAW THERE ANS WILL CUT THEM FOR YOU. DONT TRIL TO TILE AROUNDF THE TOILET. IT WILL LOOK LIKE CRAP. **** THE WATER VALVE OFF BEHIND THE TOILET.LIFT THE TOILET OUT AND SET IT IN THE BATHTUB ON A OLD BLANKET THAT U DONT WANT. TILE UNDER THE TOILET AND GET CLOSE TO THE FLANGE AS U CAN..U MAY HAVE TO RAISE THE FLANGE TO THE HEIGHT OF THE NEW TILE FLOOR. CHANCES ARE YOU WONT. JUST MAKE SURE THE FLANGE ISNT BELOW THE NEW TILE HEIGHT. THIS SOUNDS REALLY HARD, BUT IT REALLY ISN'T. JUST TAKES TIME. GOOD LUCK

Answer 4

You can usually check out home improvement videos for free from local stores. Also, if there is existing tile you want to remove it first. You can buy a tile removal scraper from Home Depot or Lowe's for about $25. Then you use it to pick up and scrape the existing tile.

It is not hard laying tile but you do need to work your way towards the door so you don't tile yourself in. The adhesive may get a bit messy so get some adhesive remover to use after it dries.

Good luck.

Answer 5

Tile looks soooo much nicer and it is durable and easy to care for. I tiled my kitchen countertops and backsplash and small bathroom floor. It really is easy. Home Depot and Lowe's has a free class. You don't need to buy a video. There are plenty of websites with good instructions and pictures. A few tips...the hardest parts are the initial planning and if doing the bathroom, removing the toilet. I drew my floor to scale, one foot equals one inch on paper (if you are using the standard 12" tiles. Take a piece of wax paper and draw one inch grid large enough to cover the drawing of your room. It is pretty good in showing you how the tiles will fit. The pencil lines are your grout lines. Also, buy a few tiles and lay them out to be sure of your design. It really isn't hard and to looks so good when you are finished. Just take your time.

Answer 6

Tile is pretty easy to lay. We laid it in our home it looked great. Till it started to crack.
We bought an older home to remodel. Come to find out the house is not even,due to the years it the foundation has sank on one side. I decided instead of fixing the foundation and the broken tiles it'd be cheaper to lay linoleum. There is a really nice brand that you can even wipe off permanent marker and they have many beautiful designs. If you really want the tile have someone else do it so if something goes wrong they'll be responsible to replace. GOOD LUCK!

Answer 7

Home Depot sells a video. Tiling is not hard just time consuming and you need good planning for everything to come out right. If you are going to go through with it. Invest in a cheap($80) tile cutter. Don't try using the score and nipper method. It isn't worth the mis-broken tiles. The cutter is the best invest I have made.

Answer 8

Tile will add value to your home. Linoleum will just add another rip-up project down the road.

For the best information on installing tile, go to the manufacturers' site for setting materials and grout.

The Top 3 in U.S. are:

- Laticrete (available at Lowes)
- Mapei (Lowes)
- Custom (Home Depot)


Researching these companies' websites should give you all the information you need.

Answer 9

there are some tools needed to cut ceramic tile,linoleum is cheaper but so is the added value and life of the flooring,It is not to hard to do ether,just take your time.

Answer 10

After installing thousands of sq. ft of tile, currently working on an 11,000 sq. ft. floor, and not knowing at all why LINO would still be sold, I'd go with tile, and have even in my own home.

The first step might be to remove any old floor covering, and determine what the substrate is, and check its condition.

Measure the room, perhaps even sketch it out on a piece of graph paper. That might help you determine the SIZE of the tile you want, or are limited to. LESS is more as it regards having to make too many cuts.

After you've decided style and color of tile and have at least a general idea of how many you'll need, and have prepped the floor, you'll purchase the tile, mortar, grout in a color you wish, spacers, tools for the job,,, and at some point you might even lay out a course of tile to determine the cuts (at the perimeters) You might invest a couple dollars in a chalk snap line as well.

Initially you want to determine if the room is square. I remove any/all base molding, square the room, and snap two lines, one perpendicular to the other, usually at some center point after knowing how many of the full size pieces will be seen and cuts will be in those areas not so important.

I usually begin laying the tile at that cross mark, and work my way out/over/left/right, etc. until I reach a point where the cuts will have to be made. In saying that I'm certain others have other methods and likely all are valid. I have also,,,after knowing how the tile will lay, begun closer to the perimeters in cases where I've had to BACK OUT of a room.

For a DIY I suggest that method. Work in small areas, perhaps 3 x 3 or 4 x 4 depending on the tile size.

Using a blade with 1/4 inch flat teeth I apply the mortar, set the tiles square, add 1/4 or 1/8 spacers and set the next adjacent piece. The best of plans is to cover the entire area with mortar to avoid Voids. The thinset should be approximately the consistency of peanut butter, perhaps the creamy kind (Smile). Then when you've set a piece check it for level, do not press so much weight onto it that you press out a lot of mortar. Continue using the level to match the height each next piece.
Allow that the mortar in ideal conditions will be "set" well enough to walk on in 24 hours. In the install use a rubber spacer to remove excess that squeezes into the grout lines and wipe any excess that gets on the tile face.
My opinion is that you should make all your cuts at the same time. IE: when the tile run comes to a 10 ft wall, and you're using 12 inch tiles, you may have cuts to make in that. For every tile you have to add/subtract the grout line thickess from the total room measurement. In a 10 ft. space you'll end up with 9 full size pieces and at least 1 cut. Install the cuts last. This is where you might be able to "Fudge" a bit. The cut lines should be clean, but if you figure ahead of time that the space from the wall should be approx 1/4 to 3/8, you'll allow room for some mis-measuring.
Grout in the appropriate color is next, and should be aboutthe same consistency. I use sanded poly blend for all my installs, and the bag has very clear instruction as to grout type/versus grout line space. Un sanded is for larger grout space/lines.
Using the appropriate tool for grouting ( A rubber/foam ""Trowel" flat edged) fill the grout lines. The tool acts as a "squeegie". Work the grout in at diagonal sweeps, and don't run it straight on in the lines reducing the height of the grout.
Immediately after, with a barely damp APPROPRIATE grouting sponge, begin to wipe excess, also at diagonals, until you've cleaned the heavy excess. I usually allow a few minutes then go back and re-wipe with perhaps a slightly wetter sponge. STOP at some point. The residue that may be apparent, will be "DUST" when dry, and easily cleaned up. I allow 24 hours for grout to set and dry as well. I also allow another 24 hours before restting any furniture.

A couple of things to note. Mortar or grout have bonding agents in them, and the wetter you mix the "soup" the more you dillute the bonding agents and the less effective the hold will be.
Also I advise DO NOT run the excess down your kitchen or any other interior drains. Think of them as arteries in a human body that may at some point be clogged by Cholesterol.
TOOLS: Certainly for a DIY I advise renting, but if you feel you might have alternate nees later, I advise a Dewalt (Etc.) Di-Grinder. I use that exclusively in small jobs, using a diamond wheel, straight llines for cuts, eye/hand coordination, and the wheels have lasted as long as a year, for me. That tool allows for outside and inside corner cuts as well. For larger jobs with many straight cuts I use a wet saw.

Replace the base moldings, repaint if you must, and enjoy.

BTW...HD and Lowes both offer free weekend clinics for the purpose of demonstration. Certainly there are books, videos and web sites that do the same.

Steven Wolf