Zari, Zardozi, Tinsel Embroidery
Embroidery done with metallic threads is called kalabattu and forms the
zari. The main zari production centres are Surat in Gujarat and Varanasi
in Uttar Pradesh. Here the metal ingots are melted into metal bars called
pasa from which lengths are got by beating it after treatment. This is
then pulled through perforated steel plates to make it into wires,
followed by the tarkashi process to make it thin with rubber and diamond
dies. The last stage is called badla where the wire is flattened and
twisted with silk or cotton thread to become kasab or kalabattu. This has
uniform evenness, flexibility, softness, and ductility. Kasab can stand
for real silver / gold, as well as for plated silver/gold or for an
imitation in which a copper base is given a coat of silver or golden
colour to make the product less expensive.
Zari thread is used widely in weaving but more selectively in embroidery.
For intricate patterns gijai or a thin, stiff wire is used; sitara, a
small star-shaped metal piece is used for floral designs. This type of
embroidery is called salma-sitara. The thicker kalabattu is a braided gold
thread used for borders while the thinner variety is used at the end of
the drawstring of purses or batwas, and in tassels, necklaces, and
strings. Tikora is a gold thread spirally twisted for complicated designs.
The dull zari thread is called kora and the more shiny one is called
chikna. The equipment that is used for embroidery is a rectangular
wooden-frame called karchob and a wooden leg called thapa used for sewing
laces. Listed below are different kinds of zari work.
Zardozi : This is a heavy and more elaborate embroidery work which uses
varieties of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, and gota.
It is used to embellish wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains,
canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes. The material
on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and
satin. The kind of stitches found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori,
and seed pearls, among others. The main centres are in Delhi, Jaipur,
Banaras, Agra, and Surat. The old teach the young and the skill continues
from generation to generation.
Kamdani : This is a lighter needlework which is done on lighter material
like scarves, veils, and caps. Ordinary thread is used and the wire is
pressed down with the stitching producing a satin-stitch effect. The
effect produced is glittering and is called hazara butti (thousand
lights).
Mina Work : This is thus called owing to its resemblance with enamel work.
The embroidery is done in gold.
Kataoki Bel : This is a border pattern made of stiff canvas and the whole
surface is filled with sequin edging. A variation of this border technique
is lace made on net and filled with zari stitches and spangles.
Makaish : This is one of the oldest styles and is done with silver wire or
badla. The wire itself serves as a needle, piercing the material to
complete the stitches. A variety of designs are produced in this manner.
Tilla or Marori Work : This is the kind of embroidery where gold thread is
stitched on to the surface with a needle.
Gota Work : The woven gold border is cut into various shapes to create a
variety of textures in the patterns. In Jaipur the border of the material
or sari is cut into shapes of birds, animals, and human figures, attached
to the cloth, and covered with wires of silver and gold; it is surrounded
by coloured silks. The work resembles enamelling.
Kinari Work : A small variation is kinari work where the embellishments
are done only at the edges in the form of tassels. This is done mainly by
men and women of the Muslim community.
The areas in which zari embroidery is practised include Kashmir, Delhi,
Agra, and Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh, Ajmer in Rajasthan, and Bhopal in
Madhya Pradesh. The batwas (small purses) of Bhopal are very well-known
and are used for storing small coins, betel nuts, scent bottles, and the
like. The other centres are Mumbai, Hyderabad, and Chennai, along with
other places in the south.
2007-03-20 02:21:34
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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