Why does my Iguana still run from me after 3 months?

Question

I have a young Iguana in a 55 gallon tank. He is very well pampered with everything perfect in his tank. 60-70 percent humidity, 80-90 degrees on one side and 70-75 on the side that he sleeps. I change the water every day, he eats an excellent diet. I handle him at least 30 mins a day, I honestly do everything according to the book and yet he keeps looking like he is scrambling for his life every time I try to pick him up. He has never bit me, but a few mins after I grab him he uses the open mouth threat. I feel bad because I'm doing everything right, but he still seems to hate me. Is there anything I can do to change his behavior or do i have to wait for him to get older and more mature.

Answer 1

I noticed that your temps are a little low and the 55 gallon will not be big enough very long. Please read over the information that I am providing. Also consider joining the yahoo group BabyIguana (a link is in the info)
It does take time for the iguana to become "tame" so to speak. And each iguana is different, meaning it may only take 1 month for one iguana to get accustomed to being picked up while it may take a year or more for another one. Just be patient and keep holding him.
Housing :Start with nothing smaller than a 55 gallon tank,
but, since iguanas are arboreal, a tank does not offer the height an iguana needs.
That's a very good reason to start with a cage
that is bigger.The size that is required for an adult iguana is 6-7 feet high, at least
5-6 feet wide and no less than 3 feet deep.
Its important to remember air circulation and also
that you have to keep the humidity up. Also, that you have to be able
to provide the lighting and heating from the top, so a screen or mesh top
is needed, or a solid top with holes cut out and covered with screen for
the lights to shine through.(the screen covering the opening prevents the
ig from being able to touch the heat source) If not, you will harm your ig health wise.
LIGHTING:
Supplying uvb can be done in a few ways. By special lights
that come in fluorescent tubes or special screw in bulbs
(mercury vapor)that are designed to produce uvb and heat.
The tubes do not produce heat. UVB is needed by the Iguanas
to be able to absorb the calcium in the foods they eat.
With out the uvb, they will develop metabolic bone disease.
With the tubes, they must say that they produce BOTH uvb and
uva. The uvb needs to be 5% or higher. Repti Sun 5.0 and the 10.0
two of the best uvb tubes on the market. The Repti Glo 8.0's are a great source for uvb. There are tubes
that say ''full spectrum'' but they do not produce any uvb.
These need to be positioned 6-8 inches over the iguana so
that they get the uvb that is needed. The tubes need to be replaced every 6-9 months as that they stop producing UVB long before they stop producing light.
Using a fixture that holds two uvb tubes of at least 3 feet in length will provide adequate uvb for your iguana. Do not use coil lights that are sold as that they do not produce the uvb in the fashion needed for iguanas.

On the mercury vapor , they also produce heat. They also
produce the uvb and uva. The best on the market now are the
Mega Rays.(http://www.megaray.com) The distance from these are greater
than the uvb tubes and the directions must be followed that
are listed for the light. When using the mercury vapor
lights, you don't need to have one light for uvb and one for
heat. The Mercury vapor lights provide both.

For daytime heat, if using the tube uvb, regular household
incandescent light bulbs produce heat. The wattage will
depend on the size of your iguanas enclosure. and the room temperature.
Of course, the best uvb is from the
sun and if you are in an area that you are able to take your iguana outside in a proper enclosure, (Never a tank or enclosed, solid cage)
.
BASKING AREA TEMPERATURES:
Igs MUST HAVE a basking light...they digest their
food by the heat.
This light/heat can be provided by a regular household light bulb that
produces heat.(or if using a mercury Vapor light as mentioned above)
Depending on the size of the cage, you may need
anywhere from a 60 watt to a 100 watt bulb.
The basking area temps must be maintained at about 92 to 96 gradient ...no lower..no higher...
they NEED the heat to digest their food!! If the temperatures are too low,
digestion is slowed, too high and the food digests too fast and nutrition is not utilized as it should be.
This, again, is for 12 hours of daylight (the same time your UVB lights are on).
You can place this bulb in a silver dome fixture(be sure it has the ceramic socket) and it MUST be placed
so that your ig cannot climb on it..or touch it. On top of your screen
cage is safe but..if your ig likes to hang from the top of the
cage..you will have to raise it up some how to prevent burns.
Remember..if you must move it, monitor the temps again!!!!!!
This cannot be stressed enough. In order to maintain those temps,
it is VERY important to use thermometers. Using a GOOD digital is a necessity!!
A THERMOMETER IS A MUST!! It needs to be at the igs level....where he lays in the basking
area to see what the temp is there...if your thermometer is NOT where he lays,
you will get an improper reading for his basking area and you will burn
your ig (watch for panting or mouth gaping open - signs of overheating)or the temperatures
in the basking area will not be in the correct range. The best are the digital ones that have the probe. Some also give the humidity reading along with the temperature in two different areas.
You will need a basking shelf or branch. The placement of this depends
on what height you need to maintain the temps mentioned above and keep your iguana within the recommended
distance of the uvb source. Be sure to make it at least twice the width of the ig. Keep in mind the distance
the UVB light needs to be from the ig also. This is almost the hardest
area of the cage to get correct..it requires a lot of monitoring of
the temps until YOU ARE SURE they are correct.

WATER:
Keep a shallow dish of fresh water for your ig at all times.
Some igs will 'poo' in their water dishes, so you may have to change
it more than once/day. Providing a 2nd water source, such as some type of low pan for a small ig,
or a cat litter box(filled with water) for an adult ig is a good idea.Keep water shallow enough that your ig can touch
the bottom freely, as too many younger igs have been known to actually
drown!
HUMIDITY:
Igs MUST HAVE humidity. They are of the Tropical Rain Forest.
This means you need a humidity gage. Humidity needs to be high!!!
Almost raining!! 60% is the minimum... I wouldn't go above 70-75%, although most
of us
can't get that high...that's why misting your ig several times a day
helps. You can use humidifiers or vaporizers can be necessary to get a humidity level that is needed.


TEMPERATURES:
in the entire cage need to be varied. The basking
area
(branch or shelf nearest the heat source) has already been covered.
You need to have a gradient temp in the area of 75-96. Sound confusing? Basically, you need the "basking" area, a middle temp area and a cool
area. Basking area..92-96.....mid range gradient temp..88-92 (Ambient)and cool side 75-84.
Igs cannot regulate their body temps. They rely on the sun
(natural or by way of light bulb) and the shade (cooler area of the cage)
to do that.
NIGHT..... LIGHTS OUT!!!!!! At night, if
the temperatures drop below 75-80 degrees(depending on the iguana age)
you need to provide a heat source in the form of a ceramic
heat emitter(which can also be used during the day) or a
special nighttime bulb(red or deep purple) that does not
produce any bright white light.Some iguanas do not like the colored lights and do try to hide from them. Its up to you to see this and switch to a ceramic heat emitter to prevent your iguana stressing

DIET:
Iguana Iguanas are herbivores.... They DO NOT need animal
protein, they cannot digest it... it will KILL them!! (Kidney disease)
Basically, the diet needs to consist of Collard Greens, mustard greens, turnip greens,
dandelion greens,escarole, endive, chicory, arugula,(torn in pieces smaller than
their head) winter squash (butternut or acorn squash), parsnips
(grated or shredded) all placed in a shallow dish. (This is not
a complete foods list, but is a good start.)
There are 'good' foods and foods for treats (those
used only once in awhile). Fruits are treats..to be given a few
times a week. (This doesn't mean that you cannot give your ig a
piece of fruit every day..one small piece a day is fine.) Again,
I cannot stress enough the importance of diet. NO COMMERCIAL
prepared ig food..no bugs, worms, tuna, chicken, monkey biscuits,
dog or cat foods, eggs, cottage cheese... NO animal protein!!!!!


SUBSTRATES:
This is what you use on the floor of your igs enclosure.
DO NOT USE anything that is bark, litter,chips...no loose substrates!!...Many are toxic
and more so, your ig will ingest these items and it will KILL them.
You can use paper bags, newspaper, paper towels, no pile carpeting or towels(wash first,and be sure there are no loose strings )

HEAT ROCKS KILL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
...they can overheat, they cause burns (igs cannot feel
the heat) they will KILL... if you have one and you ig loves it..
cut off the cord and place it on his basking shelf and it will absorb the heat of the basking light. Never use heat rocks or heated caves!!!!

This list is by no means complete!!!! Below are listed some very good informational sites.
They will be with us for 15-20 plus years with proper care and
a little luck. Providing them with the proper needs will help them live
a long, healthy, and happy life.
Remember, we are the ones that pulled them out of their natural environments
it's our job to give them as close to a natural habitat as possible.
http://www.iguanaden.org/
http://www.greenigsociety.org/
http://anapsid.org/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BabyIguana/ a yahoo group dedicated to raising baby iguanas

Find a Vet before you need one!!! Reptiles need Vets trained to treat them..to find one in your area:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/
http://www.arav.org/Directory.htm


**caresheet used with permission of author**

Answer 2

i have had an iguana before. first off you need to look at things from his point of view you're thinking oh he should like me i pick him up and feed him, but what the iguana sees is holy crap hes huge and hes going to grab me! get down on the iguanas level and sit down on the floor with him maybe while you lean on you're elbows or something and make sure you do this in a place that he wont really be able to run away. or make too much of i mess also 30 Min's a day is not nearly enough time.

Answer 3

He is obviously feeling threatened by being handled.

Try making coming out of his cage a good thing. Offer him a little piece of fruit, don't hold him the whole time, but let him crawl around on you. My iguana loves being brushed with an extra soft face brush (it used to put him to sleep everytime). Another good way to make it fun with a small iguana is too fill up the bath with luke warm water and float something in the tub (like an upside down frizbee). Put him on the floater so he can jump in and swim and get back out as he pleases. Iguanas love to swim. Just don't leave him in too long as you don't want him to get too cold.

Good luck

Answer 4

Do you handle him often. try hand feeding him and also try to handle it often Iggys aren't just going to warm up to you after 3 months be patient it takes some time. i have had an iggy for 8 years and it is around 6 feet now. Even if you are doing everything right you are about ten times his size and he probably feels threatened. It will hopefully warm up to you eventually but iggys when they get older usually get kinda aggressive and will bite and whip you with its tail. if it is doing this it may be reaching maturity and it could be acting out because of this and trying to prove his dominance over you. Feel free to email me with any other questions.

Answer 5

Iguanas are little stubborn bastards! Alot of people missconcept that they will make a good friendly pet over other reptile species. But do not worry, when he grows older I believe he will get out of his skiddish behavior. Adult ones tend to be much more tolerant in general. hope this helps

Answer 6

most iguanas are very jumpy and scared he probely just needs 2 be handled more and cared for seems like ur doing a pretty good job try geting him a friend or hes scared of heights also hes still younge so hes just jumpy he should start 2 get youst to it