2000 bmw 528i stalling at stops..3 mechanics have told me it is fine?

Question

i beginning to think it is because i am a woman and each time i take it in, they are charging me $150+ to to tell me this...i have changed the fuel filter, air filter, replaced split vaccuum line. thermostat runs to 1/4 line mark when on highway and gets to "normal" only in city driving. put in isoheet in gas tank tonight. seems to idle real high, then drops down low. does not always quit, if i keep foot off brake it seems to keep it running if i am able to keep creeping at stops. hope this makes sense....thanks for any of your responses...it is greatly appreciated

Answer 1

if its a auto transmission it might be your torque converter, or your fluids may be very low. I'd check the fluids first then take it to a shop that specializes in transmissions.

Answer 2

When you take it to a mechanic, make sure you state the specific reason you are having it brought in for, have it written down on the written estimate what you have brought your vehicle in for. Once you do that, and they tell you nothing is wrong, the next time it happens, you can go back and tell them, look, you said it was nothing but it IS something, and that you either want your money back or you want them to fix it.

The issue may lie in what shops you are going to. Ask around to see what shops your frinds would recomend, and also, make sure that the shop you go to displays an ASE certification. Another thing to check is the Better Business Bureau, they will have a list of shops in your area that are members, meaning that they are well qualified and there are no standing or unresolved complaints against the shop.

Don't let the mechanic walk over you because you are a woman, its not a handicap, and any mechanic that will not give you the decency of putting their full effort into your vehicle isnt worth the shop hes working out of.

Here is the link to the Better Busniess Bureau site

http://www.bbb.org

Answer 3

There are many possibilities for this problem, and I am sorry that you have had this experience at a repair facility. I still think that a professional shop is your best bet, I just think you need to find a better one. I recommend going to ASE.com and finding a Blue Seal rated shop, an elite certification belonging to only 3-4% of the facilities in the nation. Statistically, with the symptoms you are describing, the possibility of a fuel system problem is highest. The fault may lie in the fuel pump, fuel injectors or any sensors supplying information to the Powertrain Control Module that affect fuel/air mixture ratio. This is the first direction I would take if the car were at my facility. Make sure they have a labscope. If they look at you with a blank stare, walk out the door and find the next shop on the list.

Answer 4

I'm thinking in the line of what Jeremy thinks, it could be your torque converter not releasing when coming to a stop. Try slipping it into neutral when coming to a stop and see if it runs Ok then. It would be like a stick shift car coming to a stop without releasing the clutch, it will stall out because engine is still connected to drive wheels when not in motion.If so visit a tranny shop for their opinion.

Answer 5

When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs and wires? Are the spark plugs gapped correctly? The contacts inside the distributor cap could be corroded. A clogged catalytic converter, or other exhaust pipe can also cause those symptoms.