I am taking out a supporting wall and have to make a support beam 142 inches long , i will be using 2X8 lumber for this and my question is ..... would this beam be stronger using 3 full pieces of 2X8 or would the beam be stronger if i used smaller pieces that are cut on an angle to put the beam together and stagger the pieces.
2007-03-18 03:15:02 · 19 answers · asked by windsurfer_on 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Do It Yourself (DIY)
willbone's right a LVL is probably what you need. What you need to know is if the span is supporting a floor or roof. You say it is supporting, assuming you mean load bearing, wall, is it carrying floor joists from a upper floor or roof. They need to know the span of the floor joists that run perpendicular to the new beam. That will tell how deep or tall the new beam needs to be. Also is there any roof loads that come down on the beam, point loads or uniform loads. The other thing you need to concern yourself with is at the end of the beam are now point loads that need to be supported by the foundation or lower floors.
So with this span of 12' and complications of moving the loads around, I'd suggest contacting a professional. There is a lot of details missing and even with more detail, it would be best if you had an engineer look at you house. They would be able to look around and determine the loads the being transferred to the beam and if the point loads now at the end of the new beam need support in the lower floors.
2007-03-18 15:39:12 · answer #1 · answered by robling_dwrdesign 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Professionally, I think you should hire an engineer or architect to specify what you need.
With a span of 12' and a live load of 40psi you will need a 3x10 or 2-2x12 (i would through bolt these). This is with a span between beams of approximatly 4-6 feet.
If you change to a glue laminated beam (you can get these at a lumber yard --call ahead) 12' span with a live load of 40psi you can use 3 1/8" x 9 for a 6 foot span on either side or 31/8" x 10.5 for an 8 foot span on either side.
Please make sure your new columns that will support the new beam will also be able to hold up the structure. Options are steel tubes with plates (any steel guy will make to order and they will be pretty cheap) or 4x4 - 6x6 lumber.
Have fun
2007-03-18 06:44:24 · answer #2 · answered by Arthur 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
1
2017-01-22 03:52:58 · answer #3 · answered by ? 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Leo, Arthur,and Robling are right man. That is a really long span, not like framing in a header for a door or window. The possibility of having the roof or floor collapse is a real. Glue-lam beams are expensive, and really heavy. Another option might be an I-beam, they are light weight and not so spendy. I haven't figured loads out for so long, that I couldn't tell you what size 4 by 12's or whatever to use. If you don't want to pay the big bucks for an engineer or architect, many architectural drafters are available too.
2007-03-21 19:35:37 · answer #4 · answered by Annette 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
How did you determine the size of the beam? Do you know the load it will carry? You can cause a great deal of damage, not to mention creating a potentially dangerous condition during and after construction. Go to your local framing yard ( a lumber yard catering to builders). Most have on staff structural engineers. They can determine the correct type of beam to use. You will need to have a building plan, showing where the beam is going, and what it will be supporting(roof and upper floors). There are lots of choices that are better than 2 x 8's, depending on how big the load is. Ask about LVL's and laminated I beams.
2007-03-18 05:46:39 · answer #5 · answered by Leo L 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
First of all you'll be spanning almost 12 feet and 2X8s aren't going to be sufficient. You will need at least 2X10 with a half inch of plywood sandwiched between them. This will also give you 31/2 thickness of the beam, same as the width of the studs that will support the beam. If you are going to remove the wall make sure you brace the ceilng well before you take out the wall or else you may find the ceiling tumbling down on you
2007-03-18 03:54:20 · answer #6 · answered by shermisme 3 · 1⤊ 0⤋
What is the wall supporting now? Floor load only or roof and floor or roof and two floors? There are so many questions to be answered. 3- 2X8's screwed and glued together maybe alright under some circumstances. Is there snow load where you are? Get advice from a knowledgable lumber yard...NOT HOME DEPOT or LOWES! Someone who has real experience in your location on code requirements, including the number of jack studs required under each end of the beam.
2007-03-18 06:43:26 · answer #7 · answered by Mustbcrazy 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I would consult an engineer. It should not take long for him/her to spec the beam. Granted it can be expensive to get an engineer but if it is your house what is you and your families lives worth? Or if for a client, facing a lawsuit for killing someone, $150 hour for an engineer is small price to pay. If you should get an architect make sure they are an architectural engineer, there is a difference.
I would venture to say it will be an LVL like said above.
2007-03-18 13:12:42 · answer #8 · answered by Fred R 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I recommend having a steel I beam fabricated. It's a lot less expensive than replacing the ceiling.
2007-03-20 07:40:40 · answer #9 · answered by Duane R-H 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Depending on what the wall supports. If it is a true load bearing wall, the beam should be at least a 4"x12" to span 142 inches.
2007-03-18 03:24:50 · answer #10 · answered by hisemiester 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋