Reef Tank set up?

Question

Ok i got my tank set up its 160 gal and its going to be my reef tank , I have a saltwater fish only tank that i have had for awhile and i know what i`m doing there . Is there anything i should know about these reef tanks . Like how many power heads or should i set up a wave maker and so on , I have been reading alot online but the answers are not always the same . I guess i need alot of current in the tank. To this point i have added all my live rock 300 pounds of it and i have added a few power heads also do i need more and what elsa should i have. I guess i feel kind dumb coming here to ask but i have had some questions well answered here.

Answer 1

How long has your 160 been set up? Adding 300 pounds of rock at one time to your tank is tricky.

When talking about live rock (LR), it is a misconception that the rock itself is alive. What makes it live are the many forms of micro and macroscopic marine life that live on and inside of it. The rock itself is only made up of the calcium carbonate skeletons of long dead corals, or other calcareous organisms.

There are different types of live rock. "reef rock" basically as pieces of coral or coral rock from outside the reef that have broken off and fallen to the bottom that then becomes covered with encrusting organisms, such as coraline algae and sponges. "Inshore rock" refers to as rock from inside the reef that has a tendency to be more dense and becomes covered with macroalgae, clams, mussels, crabs, shrimps, and other unwanted organisms. reef rock is much more desirable then inshore rock because it cycles more quickly and stabilizes a tank much faster.

There is also dead base rock, meaning it has no live growth on it. This is rock that is devoid of external life that probably won't see much light, so you can put other forms of more advanced live rock and corals on top of it to build your reef system base, once your tank has settled and the base rock is seeded or cured. Beginning a reef tank using seeded base live rock as the center stones of the aquarium is not a bad idea. Once the base rock is established, then you can begin to add, slowly, more advanced types of live rock.

Some descriptions of live rock sold by suppliers can be confusing. For example, Live Rock supplier describes their Pacific live rock as, "Actually pieces of coral skeletons that have broken off reefs during storms. This 'rubble' washes in toward shore where it is collected in shallow water." So, is this a lighter type of "reef" rock, or heavier type of "inshore" rock?
What Is The Purpose of Live Rock?

Live rock becomes the main biological nitrification base or biological filter of a saltwater aquarium, (that is if you are using it) while at the same time enhances the look of the aquarium and provides shelter for the inhabitants. To better understand what purpose live rock serves in an aquarium,:

"The use of live rock immediately introduces into the aquarium numerous algae, bacteria and small invertebrates all of which contribute to the overall quality of the aquarium water. Live rock has just as much, if not more, surface area for bacteria than a trickle filter. Since live rock in the aquarium contains various types of bacteria, algae and corals, waste products such as ammonia, nitrate and phosphate can have a number of fates. Ammonia, nitrate and phosphate are readily assimilated by algae and photosynthetic corals growing on and in the rock. Ammonia can also be quickly converted into nitrate by the bacteria on and in the rock. This nitrate can be either absorbed by the algae and corals, or it can be denitrified by bacteria in close proximity to the nitrate producing bacteria."

No matter what type of live rock you choose to use, as you may know, a biological filter base base has to cycle and settle for your aquarium to run properly, and this pertains to the curing of live rock as well.

If you are planning on adding it to youraquarium:
Don't overload the system! Even top quality, fully cured live rock can be quickly turned into dead base rock if mass quantities are introduced all at once. It is not a bad idea to add small amounts a little at a time, and test, test, and test again. When the tank settles, wait a little longer and then move on to the next phase of adding a little more, repeating this process until you've obtained the total quantity of live rock desired.


As far as power heads depending on how your rock is set up in your tank. You need the power heads for the circulation and to keep the live rock pores from getting clogged. Chances are you had gotten a few hitchhikers that will also benefit your tank on this live rock.

As copperhead mentioned, wave makers are really not needed if you have your water circulating. Once thing I will suggest is to get your self a good reef additive. I use Nano Reef A&B. This just adds what your live rock needs. I do not add it every day however. As far as the rest of your tank, sounds like you have it covered. It isn't as complex as most people will have you believe. Once it is up and running, stocked, you will find a reef tank will take care of itself, even the water quality will remain high. I only need to do a water change every 2 months or so. That also benefits the tank when keeping the hands out as much as possiable.

If you have any other questions about your reef tank, feel free to email or im me. I have a 175 reef tank. No wave makers just powerheads. That is not to say you may not want to add a wave maker just because you like it.

Answer 2

Don't feel bad for asking questions! There are some definite rules in fishkeeping, and there are other areas that are really a matter of preference or individual experience - these are where you'll see both the most answers (like the different info you got with your online research) and the most arguing! Lots of folks like to think something has to be done their way, or it doesn't work, but this isn't always true - it's just what they've had success with - and others might have equal success with an alternative method.

For your question, I'll agree with the two answers that were first. What's necessary is good circulation in the tank to suspend wastes and circulate food and oxygen. A wavemaker isn't necessary. I've tried them, and while they will still move water like a standard powerhead, I find that the mechanism to have the direction move will often "jam" from debris.

You can use standard powerheads with an electronic wavemaker (essentially outlets on timers set for varying intervals) or get a few powerstrips and timers and make your own.

The number of powerheads you need will depend on your setup - whatever is needed to circulate the water around, and through your rock.

Answer 3

You sound like you are on the right rack, especially with all the live rock for nitrification and de-nitrification.

Wave makers in my experience have been un reliable, however if you have a lot of corals a electronic controller would be your best option (these turn power heads on and off at opposite sides of the tank). If you get a controller choose a reliable power head that will not stick, I recommend the Via Aqua, ReSun, and Rio here.

If you do not have a lot of coral (or none at all) a few power heads producing cross circulation at different angles is very useful.

As for different answers, there is more than one way to maintain a marine tank that is correct. I have maintained literally 100s in my maintenance business using different methods; some did work better than others. I would avoid advice that says their way or you are wrong. There are unfortunately many myths in this hobby (many surrounding UVs and Protein Skimmers).

Most important (as you probably already know) is to start with good water parameters and filtration and cleaning methods that keep you there.

I recommend this article for some good well researched basics and links from there to more advanced info such as Aquarium Redox:
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Basic_Saltwater.html

Answer 4

It sounds like you are doing pretty well. I think a wave maker is unnecessary even for your tank. I think you can accomplish what you need with the power heads(I would say about 2-3 of them) the current is the important thing for a reef tank so that all your stable invertebrates (coral, anemones, mussels, etc) are all getting enough food and aeration.

Answer 5

Although I've only been at this a couple of years,I'll give any advice I can.I have a 55 gal now.I have a couple of timers with power strips.I wouldn't suggest wave makers.Just make sure you have plenty of snails and crabs.They help keep the algae down.I'm sure you'll have plenty of it.They are also great for the Eco system.Are you planning on having fish as well or strictly reef?Maybe you can help me.I'm about to start another 55 gal. and I'm not sure if I'm going to make it reef or not.I want to put a porcupine puffer and a clown trigger in it.Any suggestions?

Answer 6

frequently you pick around a million pound according to gallon of stay sand and stay rock...traditionally you dont would desire to get all stay rock or suddenly. Base rock is extra fee-effective and could be added after for you to purchase some products of stay rock... and at last upload stay rock as situations pass on. you will nevertheless choose a hydrometer to degree the salinity. in case you intend on going reef you would be able to additionally opt to look at a RO/DI clear out. additionally a chiller ought to be mandatory.