How to Maintain Your Saltwater Aquarium?

Answer 1

This isn't so bad if you do it regularly.
Instructions

* STEP 1: Check your tank daily to make sure none of the fish are dead or dying.
* STEP 2: Observe them for a few minutes, checking each fish. This will familiarize you with their behavior, and will make it easier for you to notice if one is sick.
* STEP 3: Feed your fish every three days. Be sure to vary their diet.
* STEP 4: Top off the evaporated water with dechlorinated water and add calcium.
* STEP 5: Add iodine twice a week.
* STEP 6: Scrape the algae from the tank walls weekly.
* STEP 7: Schedule a weekly chore: Once a week remove 10 to 15 percent of the tank water and replace it with fresh dechlorinated water. This helps dilute unwanted chemicals in the tank. It also helps keep the tank's chemistry close to that of your own tap water. This means that you'll have fewer problems if you ever need to do an emergency water change.
* STEP 8: Siphon the debris from the gravel when you change the water.
* STEP 9: Test the water every two weeks. Wait at least a day after a water change. Check the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, pH levels and copper if you have invertebrates.
* STEP 10: Check the filter pads every two weeks. Clean or replace them as necessary.
* STEP 11: Test the alkalinity monthly.
* STEP 12: Do a water change of 25 percent once a month.

Tips & Warnings

* Keep track of your chemicals and maintenance schedule.
* Keep extra salt mix and dechlorinated water handy for emergency water changes.

Answer 2

Did anyone here read this question before copying something from a web page?

Maintaining your tank is quite simple. Be sure to test your water regularly. I keep a note book and write down my results and the day I test. As well as all new additions, sickness, treatments etc.. This will keep a record and good outline of how your tank is working.

Knowing your fish and their antics is the key to a good tank. Healthy fish come from a healthy tank. When testing your tank's water quality, a good water test kit as well as the test strips work wonders. Be sure to test for Ammonia, Nitrate, nitrite, KH and PH. Compare the dip strip with the water test. You will get an idea which for you is more accurate.

I do scrape the algae, featherdusters etc. growing on the front glass and right side of my tank. I do not scrape the glass elsewhere on my tank. Good algae, like the coralline algaes are beneficial to your tank and should be left. Also, other green algaes are beneficial to fish like tangs. Unless it is growing out of control leave it.

If you have live rock take a power head from the tank and use it gently blowing off debris that has settled on objects in your tank. Let it settle about 10 minutes or so.

At this time, mix your new salt water using your dechlor. Be sure the hydrometer reads exactly the same as what is in your tank now. (Any adjustments can be made later).

Once your tank has settled, use your gravel siphone and clean the bottom of the tank removing no more than 20-25% of your water.

This should be done once every two to three weeks depending on your water quality. (My large tank gets done once ever two months or so) The older the tank is the less you will need to clean it (Usually, but not always). Replace the water in your tank. I don't clean my filter every time I clean the tank. I run back packs and usually this isn't an issue. I do empty and clean the protein skimmer when ever I see it needs it. Sometimes you will need to clean the intake hose of the skimmer. I use warm water and a bamboo skewer. Simple really.

Power head sometimes get clogged with debris, not often should also be cleaned.

Once you have your tank water all together, retest the salanity....to ensure you are still at the right level for your fish.

I usually wait an hour or so and then test the tank water. Just to be sure everything is where it should be.

(If you are removing shells and decorations not needed, you should do them when you have removed your 20-25% of the water)
Use only a clean soft cloth with water to clean the salt from your glass. (You may find salt build up on the hood. You can remove the hood and clean it in the shower. and replace)

Other than that as far as maintaining, keep an eye on your fish, feed them every day for peat's sake, and test your water.

Answer 3

The answer from Anupa s was taken from E HOW and is one person's reply.
There is a Number of things that a few people disagree on, READ this from E How.
"Removing algae from walls - In a saltwater tank, if you only remove the algae on the glass once a week you are in for quite a chore, especially if you have strong lighting. Best bet is to get a magnetic algae scrubber (that all pet stores carry) and every day just swipe a different section of glass. Trust me, it will be the best money you ever spent."

"Changing water in a saltwater tank - Depending on the number of fish you have, how big - or small - they are, and the size of your tank, it may be important to change the water more frequently than just once every 2 weeks. Also consider how much you feed, how much is eaten, and how much just sort of "disappears" to the bottom of the tank. There are many online resources that will give you a general guideline that's releveant to your specific setup. Some sites have archived information worth its weight in gold. You can't learn too much There's no hard and fast rule about water exchange."

"My corrections - Please don't feed the fish every three days. Fish should eat every day or every other day (some fish should eat or graze constantly, such as sea horses and tangs.) That way, when you feed them, you can observe their health. Also, you don't need to add iodine in the tank UNLESS you have a reef tank. And not all reef tanks require it (but some corals such as mushrooms can benefit from it.)"

"Effective method for removing unsightly algae - Instead of removing algae weekly, purchase some inexpensive invertebrates such as snails, hermit crabs and shrimp to do the job for you. This allows more herbivorous fish to receive the vegetation needed to stay healthy without adding weekly supplememnts."

Now for Mine
Step4- you should not add calcium EVERY day unless your calcium level is low AND you are keeping stony corals.

Step7 if you REMOVE 10to 15% of your tank water and replace it with fresh water you ARE going to lower your salinity which could be VERY HARMFULL to a lot of animals in your tank(CORALS).

Step8 If you syphon the gravel you are going to REMOVE a lot of bacteria and other living organisms that you have worked so hard to grow (part of a GOOD saltwater FILTER system)

Step9 If you have any corals or inverts... you should NOT have ANY copper in your tank. a lot of TAP water contains copper and should not be used unless you have it tested ro use an RO-DI system on it.

WATCH OUT WHERE SOME OF THESE ANSWERS ARE COMMING FROM!!!

Answer 4

the base line is the startup of the tank. For freshwater, all you do is fill the tank up, bubble some air interior the path of the water for some days, upload a clear out and you're arranged to pass. yet for saltwater, you need to create a colony of micro organism on your clear out till now you start up putting your high priced ocean fish in. This demands which you place a million small damselfish on your tank according to 10 gallons of water for extra or less 6 weeks or till all of them die from ammonia poisoning. as quickly as there's a build-up of ammonia interior the tank, the micro organism will start to type, and you'd be on the edge of putting your genuine fish in. yet even after your tank is universal, you have a number of of different paintings to do. do no longer overstock your tank. For a ninety gallon, i could recommend no better than 5 medium sized fishes (like tangs, angels, and so on.). upload each and all the fish in at as quickly as on the initiating, so as that they are able to all get used to one yet another and set up their territories. Ocean fish choose a number of of hiding places, as they're used to residing in corals with alot of caves and tunnels. do no longer underestimate the magnitude of this, fish rigidity is amazingly genuine. The extra vulnerable an ocean fish feels, the extra rigidity it is going by way of. The extra rigidity, the fewer healthful the fish. you besides would ought to attempt the pH each and every few weeks, and do a 25% water replace each and every 3 weeks. this could be a discomfort for a ninety gallon tank, exceedingly in case you need to lug gallons in the time of your place. do no longer overfeed. it is even worse for saltwater using fact fungi and algae right now advance in case you overfeed. This all would sound like a number of of paintings, yet as quickly as you get used to it, the dazzling thing concerning to the fishes will make it nicely worth it. additionally, be arranged to spend ALOT. Salt blend isn't low fee, neither are the finding out suggestions, fish nutrients, and different factors you will would desire to start it up. additionally, you need to be waiting to tell a stable looking, healthful fish on the fish shop. some merchants will attempt to sell an risky fish that has hollow-in-the-head or some fungal an infection. Do your analyze on a thank you to seek for a fish. back, it is extra durable with ocean fish using fact they're extra mushy. stable luck.

Answer 5

So are you answering your own questions under a different name or do you and your friend just have a deal worked out for points? Just curious....

Answer 6

How to Start a Saltwater Aquarium
Whether setting up a new aquarium, converting an existing tank from fresh to saltwater, or upgrading from a fish-only to a reef tank, it is important to plan ahead "before" you begin. Research the many system design options there are to choose from, what equipment and supplies are needed for each, and once you've got your system planned out, put it all together and set it up.
Subtopics
Plan a System (3) Maintain the Aquarium @ Buy Books @ More Ways to Start & Set Up (12) Select a Tank @ Moving Fish & Inverts (11) Select a Filtration System @ Emergency Help!! @ Select Equipment & Supplies @ FAQs & How To's @ Select & Add Livestock @ Quick Reference Help Desk (473) Cycle the Aquarium (23)
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Answer 7

How many questions did you ask? WOW!

Answer 8

This isn't so bad if you do it regularly.
Instructions
STEP 1: Check your tank daily to make sure none of the fish are dead or dying. STEP 2: Observe them for a few minutes, checking each fish. This will familiarize you with their behavior, and will make it easier for you to notice if one is sick. STEP 3: Feed your fish every three days. Be sure to vary their diet. STEP 4: Top off the evaporated water with dechlorinated water and add calcium. STEP 5: Add iodine twice a week. STEP 6: Scrape the algae from the tank walls weekly. STEP 7: Schedule a weekly chore: Once a week remove 10 to 15 percent of the tank water and replace it with fresh dechlorinated water. This helps dilute unwanted chemicals in the tank. It also helps keep the tank's chemistry close to that of your own tap water. This means that you'll have fewer problems if you ever need to do an emergency water change. STEP 8: Siphon the debris from the gravel when you change the water. STEP 9: Test the water every two weeks. Wait at least a day after a water change. Check the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, pH levels and copper if you have invertebrates. STEP 10: Check the filter pads every two weeks. Clean or replace them as necessary. STEP 11: Test the alkalinity monthly. STEP 12: Do a water change of 25 percent once a month. Tips & Warnings
Keep track of your chemicals and maintenance schedule.
Keep extra salt mix and dechlorinated water handy for emergency water changes
Choosing the fish is the best part of setting up your tank!
Instructions
STEP 1: Determine the number of fish you can house by the size of your tank. A general rule of thumb is to allow 2 inches of fish per gallon of water. STEP 2: Buy your fish from a reputable dealer who will back up her product. You want clean fish that won't get each other sick. A good sign that the seller knows what she's talking about is her show tank. Do the fish seem happy? Is it the way you imagine your tank looking when it's complete? If you see dead things floating in the tanks, look elsewhere. STEP 3: Read about the fish you want. Some have particular needs, whether temperature, chemical, dietary, or compatibility-related. STEP 4: Begin with just a few inexpensive fish. STEP 5: Look for damselfish, which are excellent beginner fish. They're tougher than most other marine fishes, tolerating poor water conditions and temperature fluctuations. Be aware that they are fairly aggressive and you should limit your tank to two of them. STEP 6: Consider the cousin to the damselfish, the clown fish, another attractive starter fish. While they are territorial, they're only aggressive to their own species. STEP 7: Mollies, although also listed as a freshwater fish, can be an ideal stepping stone between freshwater and saltwater tanks. They are very hardy fish. STEP 8: Try gobies and blennies, fun little fish with a lot of character. Some eat algae, an added benefit. They do well with most other fish. STEP 9: Look at crabs and shrimp. They're easy to maintain and reasonably inexpensive. Some might try to eat your smaller fish, so check out the species closely for compatibility before you bring them together. Shrimp need to have iodine added to the water, which is one more thing for you to monitor. STEP 10: Look into starfish and sea urchins, too. They vary widely in color, size and shape. They help keep the tank clean and are generally easy to keep. STEP 11: Think hard about anemones, which are particular about water conditions and lighting. They're also expensive. STEP 12: Avoid angelfish, pipefish, eels, stonefish, clams, seahorses, octopi and jellyfish, as well as the expensive species. These have fairly rigid needs that are likely more than challenging for a new tank owner. Tips & Warnings
Saltwater ' or marine ' fish tend to be a lot more expensive than freshwater species
Stocking Your Saltwater Aquarium
Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.


Ask any saltwater aquarium hobbyist and you will discover that the process of setting up and stocking an aquarium is definitely worth the work and the wait. Saltwater aquarium setup and stocking requires careful effort, especially now that the Internet has afforded hobbyists access to many rare and/or demanding species of fish and invertebrates. Many of the available species also have special compatibility requirements which you must address during the stocking process. This article details the five phases involved in successfully setting up and stocking a marine aquarium.

Phase 1 - prepare your aquarium water

Set up the aquarium and install all filtration equipment. Fill the aquarium with freshwater that has ideally been treated by reverse osmosis. If you must use untreated city water, add a quality liquid dechlorinator to remove chlorine from the water. Next, add salt by carefully following the instructions on the salt mix. Use a hydrometer to monitor and raise salinity to the desired level. Install the aquarium heater and set to the desired temperature. Allow the system to run for a few days to ensure a constant water temperature and proper operation of all equipment.

Phase 2 - build your aquarium "foundation"

After your aquarium has run successfully for a few days, start building your "foundation" of aragonite-based substrate and live rock. You might also consider adding 2-3 inches of live sand, which seeds the sand bed with beneficial bacteria and micro-organisms. Be sure to cure the sand before adding it to the aquarium (see further information on curing, below).

After you have added your substrate and live sand, add your live rock. Live rock is porous, aragonite-based rock harvested from the rubble zones of ocean reefs. In addition to harboring large amounts of beneficial bacteria and micro-organisms, live rock also provides aquarium inhabitants with safe hiding spaces and helps maintain healthy water parameters. Live rock offers aesthetic appeal and biological filtration while providing the necessary habitat and nutrition for your fish and invertebrates.

You can choose from several varieties of live rock - variations in color, shape, and associated marine life are dependent upon the geographic area in which the live rock originated. As a general rule, add approximately 1-1/2 pounds of rock per gallon of water in your aquarium. The exact amount you should add will vary by the type of rock you choose. Be sure to follow the recommendations that accompany your chosen live rock.

Your live rock must be fully cured before you can add any fish or invertebrates to your aquarium. The curing process, which initiates the Nitrogen Cycle, typically takes 1-4 weeks, depending upon our equipment, amount of rock, and method used. During this time, you must also perform weekly water changes. To start your live rock curing, stack the rock loosely in your aquarium. Try to build as many caves as possible. This allows fish to swim freely within the rockwork, and provides the rock with good water circulation. Also, be sure to stack your rocks right side up - turn the side of the rock with the most color upward. This will help ensure proper lighting conditions for both the colorful coralline algae, which requires bright light, and the sponges, which require low light. Please note: during the curing process, you must keep the aquarium dark to inhibit algae growth - provide illumination only briefly when checking progress. For a more detailed, step-by-step curing process, see Curing and Acclimating Live Rock and Sand.

Phase 3 - add lighting and algae eaters

At this time, you should also set up your lighting system with a common appliance timer set to illuminate the aquarium 10-12 hours per day. The following few weeks after adding lighting, you will most likely experience an algae bloom. To combat this, you should add those fish and invertebrates that eat algae. These are often sold together under the name 'Algae Attack Packs,' and may include crabs, snails, and certain gobies and blennies. Follow the acclimation procedure included with the additions and allow your aquarium's biological filtration to catch up to the new increased biological load. The biological filtration will quickly accommodate the new inhabitants, due to the fully cured live rock in the system. After a few days, test the ammonia and nitrite levels - when they reach 0, you can begin adding fish and invertebrates.

Phase 4 - begin adding fish and invertebrates

After you have cured your live rock, illuminated your aquarium, and taken care of any subsequent algae blooms, your aquarium is ready for fish and invertebrates. Before adding any fish and/or invertebrates, be sure you are familiar with any compatibility issues that may exist among your desired species. Also, be sure to stock your aquarium gradually to allow the biological filtration to catch up to the new aquarium inhabitants. When planning your additions, first test ammonia and nitrite levels and make sure the levels reach and remain at zero for at least a few weeks. Once the levels are stable at zero, you can safely add new fish and/or invertebrates.

The first series of fish and invertebrates you add to your aquarium must be the most docile of your desired species. This will allow them to become accustomed to the aquarium before you add larger, more active, more aggressive species. After giving your new arrivals at least a few weeks to become acclimated, follow up gradually with the larger, more active species.

You may also be wondering just how many fish you can successfully keep in your aquarium. While many variables affect that answer, a general rule is to stock no more than ½ an inch of fully grown fish per gallon of water in your aquarium. For example, if you have a 30-gallon aquarium, ideally stock no more than 15 total inches of fully grown fish. Remember to consider your desired fishes' maximum size when calculating this amount.

Phase 5 - add detritus feeders

Now that you have established your aquarium and added fish and invertebrates, you should add invertebrates (usually sea stars) that feed on detritus ('Detritus Attack Packs'). This will help maintain healthy water parameters. The invertebrates in these attack packs feed on leftover food and waste from fish and other invertebrates. If insufficient detritus-eating invertebrates are present, the unconsumed food and waste will ultimately serve as nutrients for unwanted algae. Choose the number and type of invertebrates that fit the size of your aquarium.

In conclusion

The above steps should simplify and demystify the process of successfully setting up and stocking a marine aquarium. Most importantly - and prior to investing in and setting up aquarium equipment - research the needs of your desired fish and invertebrates to ensure from the start that you have the time, energy, and resources to invest in their care. And be sure to resist the temptation to add all your inhabitants at once; by stocking your aquarium slowly, you will greatly increase your inhabitants' chances for survival, as well as your chances for long-term success. With the proper set-up, as well as diligence, patience, and care, your saltwater aquarium and its inhabitants will thrive while you enjoy a beautiful, fascinating ocean setting in your own home.