I just replaced all the hardware in the toilet, and it still runs and does not flush well. What is up?

Answer 1

If you replaced "all" the hardware, then something is not adjusted right. Did you replace the flush valve? That is the tube in the middle with the flapper attached to it. You have to remove the tank from the bowl to perform this operation. If you did, and the flapper is "good", then check it as you lift the handle. I am suspicious of the flapper! I have seen brand new flappers, that were deformed, and would not seal. That is what you should concentrate on first. Make sure that the chain is adjusted properly, and when the water fills the tank, it should be 1", no more and no less, from the top of the overflow tube. Depending on the type of water fill valve you installed, most hardware stores sell the type with the float that rides up and down around the shaft that protrudes through the bottom of the tank, and is adjustable for various toilet tanks of varying heights. Sometimes, dirt or debris is pushed into the fill valve, when you first turn on the water, and it will affect the operation of the fill valve. If the toilet is an older model that has been used for many years, the holes around the rim, get clogged up with calcium deposits, and the toilet starts acting up, by not allowing enough water to enter the bowl, to start the syphonic action, necessary to create a flush. Here is a simple test for this: Fill a 5 gallon bucket with water, and pour the whole thing into the bowl. If the bowl takes all the water, then your bowl has too much calcium deposits, and should be replaced. That test will also work to find out if you have a stoppage in the sewer main, by not taking all the water. New toilets made after 1993, use 1.6 gallons per flush, and the newest models out even have a feature to use .8 gallons for when there are no solids to flush. None of these tanks or bowls will work on older toilets, so you have to replace the whole thing. If someone tries to tell you that you can clean the calcium out, DON'T LISTEN! There have been attempts by people to use a chemical to try and remove the calcium from the bowl. DO NOT TRY ANY OF THESE CHEMICALS IN A PORCELAIN PRODUCT! THESE CHEMICALS WORK BY CREATING HEAT, AND PORCELAIN FIXTURES WILL BURST IF HEAT IS CREATED INSIDE OF THEM! EVEN POURING BOILING WATER INTO A TOILET COULD MAKE IT BURST! Several years ago, I had to replace all the toilets in 2 restrooms, where some plumber got in a hurry, and cross connected the hot and cold pipes, and 10 toilets, and 2 urinals burst from having hot water piped into them. Luckily, no one was at school that day, or it could have been a very nasty situation. Anyway, good luck to you!

Answer 2

Did you properly adjust the flapper chain/rubber strap? This should be adjusted so that the flapper "just" seals. If too much slack, the flapper will close before the flush is completed. Adjust the fill valve so that it shuts off about 3/4" below the top of the overflow tube. Make sure the rubber/plastic tube that comes from the fill valve is attached to the clip on the overflow tube and not hanging down inside the tube. After all adjustments are complete, pour a couple cups of coffee (liquid only, no grounds) into the tank and watch to see if the colored liquid leaks into the bowl. If so, either the flapper is not seating or it is not the correct flapper for your toilet.

Answer 3

To stop the running water problem check your flapper. If its okay ensure your float is adjusted properly. The flushing problem can be caused by calcium buildup in the ports along the under side of the rim. I generally use a nail and pick at the port opening to break up the calcium. I flush the toilet slightly to assist the calcium in coming out from the port. Sometimes I've had to do this 3 - 4 times for the ports to completely clear them.

Answer 4

Sounds like an adjustment is off. Is the water level draining down the overflow tube? If you lift the float up manually, does the water cut off. If not there may be an adjustment for that.

The drain might be a plugged toilet or a plugged piping to the drain. Get a new wax seal and pull the toilet, and inspect the pipes and the toilet.

Answer 5

The flaps will often be the easiest to change but the most difficult to get working right. Make sure it makes a good seal. Also make sure the water level does not rise above the flow tube. An extra 5 minutes fiddling and you should have the problem solved

Answer 6

just from experiene,there is a small adjusting screw on the top of the fillertube(where the water is entering to the tank).simply turn this forward and it willlift the floator reverse to lower the float.lowering the float will lessen the amount of water required to stop the incoming water.also check to see if the stopper plug is sealin correctly,allowing the float to reach maximum height to shut off incoming water supply.

Answer 7

The "seat" under the flapper may be dirty or pitted. Try cleaning that area with a scouring pad. If that doesn't work Home Depot type stores have glue on replacement seats. Made by Fluidmaster.

Answer 8

if tank and bowl are seperate - perhaps that seat is worn and the watwer slowly runs - that also makes for an air leak that robs flushing power

Answer 9

have you checked the pipes? maybe its not draining well because of a clog or some kind of backup.