Moved into a new house 6 mos. ago, this past weekend, ripped up the flooring by the kitchen sink to find a 5'x6' wet, rotten area of the floor which I'm currently cutting out and replacing. Want to make sure the leak is taken care of (still don't know where) so I'm replacing the pipes from the crawl space up to the sink. I've noticed the pipes I've taken out are 1/2" copper with 5/8" comp. nuts/fittings. Would this cause a leak? Was also no teflon or anything on the threading. Also, when I had the water turned off to the house, there was still a constant drip, enough to fill a 5 gal. in 8 hrs, from the fittings I removed the pipes from. Could I have too much water pressure? Fixing the floor isn't a problem, need to figure out where the leak is from so it doesn't happen again.
Thanks
2007-03-13 05:22:36 · 5 answers · asked by xr247 1 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
The time to search for the leak was before disassembly. At this point, all you can do is guess. The leak may not have been from the supply - it could be from the drain, too.
The constant drip you refer to is caused by a leaky main shutoff valve. Probably the washer, or if it's a gate valve, debris in the seat.
I recommend , at least for any fittings that will be hidden inside walls or elsewhere when you are done, that you use sweat fittings for the joints and get rid of the compression connectors.
2007-03-13 06:59:28 · answer #1 · answered by Hank 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Compression fittings do not need any type of pipe dope compound on them. The ferrel under the nut makes the seal. If not tightened properly, they will leak. Usually the leak is in the form of a fine mist and sometimes can go unnoticed. Maximum water pressure in a house is 80 pounds. You can get a gauge at Home Centers that screws onto an outside faucet to find the pressure. If higher than 80, you need a pressure reducing valve installed in the line coming into your house.
2007-03-13 05:32:22 · answer #2 · answered by sensible_man 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
i personally prefer soldered joints....always..
but the need of teflon tape is not present for compression fittings......the fitting actually crimps as it is tightened....one problem may have been that the pipe wasn't inserted completely into the fitting before it was tightened.....
if you are bringing in new lines i would convert to sweat style fittings......
and not knowing your situation exactly...i would consider using rolled copper pipe under the crawl space, and eliminate any joints all together.......but if you go that route..be careful not to crimp or crease the pipe when installing, as that will surely be a leak..if not imediately in the future.....
and remember if finding your leak...it isnt necessarily where you see the drip...water can travel great distances before it becomes apparent....
good luck
2007-03-13 05:34:58 · answer #3 · answered by mbm052969 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
looks actual looking. shall we see, he will go get areas(a million hour) deliver his kit and replace the pipe( 30-40 5 min) sparkling up and verify for leaks (30 min). If each little thing is going properly, he's no longer charging extra effective than $25-30 hr. If there's a 2d holiday for areas or yet another leak, he will spend extra time. maximum plumbers are $50/hr plus min provider call just to look.
2016-11-25 00:32:59 · answer #4 · answered by hildy 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I agree with Hank and by all means do not use compression fittings when you replumb
2007-03-13 07:13:55 · answer #5 · answered by shermisme 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋